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First print jobs using heat press?
The coca cola logo is what i was trying to achieve
The Honda logo is good using super flex
The next two logos are what I’m getting using my ink jet printer, Not good quality.
Please see my other topic about heat presses .Thanks Tim
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47 Replies
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I could be wrong but it looks like your moto x transfer on one of those has bridged a crease in the material, always press the garment dead flat with no creases first, as if this happens you will have to take it off and re do it.
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You could be right as it could be the back off the shirt, but If I look at the back of it , it has been heat pressed across the ridges with no problems, The problem I’m more worried about it why you can see the colours of the shirt but not on the coca cola logo, whats the difference? Even on the white motocross logo you can see the black line from the shirt ?
Thanks Tim -
With the shirts being polyester, they have probably been dye sublimated, to get the colours into the jersey.
I would imagine the dye sub colours are coming through the transfer also, Im not sure if they have a polyester content, but being a plasticky type of material I wouldnt be surprised if they do, in which case they will show the ink up that is underneath them.
you are definetely using dark jet, not just the light colour transfers yes?
Dark jet is distinguishable as they have a very thick sticky plastic backing on them.
I have put transfers over other transfers before and not had that problem.
I can only imagine its the dye sub ink coming through, Im not sure of your pressure and pressing times, they should be 10 secs and 150-160 degrees
Try pressing just a couple of seconds on a low temp, like 150 and see if it comes through, if not press another couple of seconds and so on to see if its a time or pressure issue.
If not then it pretty much has to be the dye sub ink coming through the transfer, if thats the case then you will need to use plastisol transfers, or possibly even cut a peice of identical shaped ultracut underneath to see if that stops it. -
Yeah Reading this setting sheet, I think it requires me to use a R800/R1800 printer for these sheets to work, Do they require pigment inks? They are colour trans dark jet ( settings which i used as per sheet were 20secs at 175C at med pressure ) will try putting a piece of superflex down today and try that, its only on my old tops anyways, I will order in Ultra cut when they reopen. I got some A4 samples from victory and grafityp also to try today.
Thanks steve
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Looks like you’re right.
R1800 or 800, I have an R1800 if you want me to test a sheet for you. -
mod-edit 1 see board rules.
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Having some problems with Ultra cut ( xpres ), I got some samples of Ultra cut Steve as you thought they may be better for the shirts I’m working with, As you can see they didn’t turn out well at all,
. 20 seconds @ 170 c and carrier released hot, paper used then Teflon sheet over again.
Can you see anything I’m doing wrong? When releasing the carrier it pulls the flex out off shape so next colour doesn’t line up correctly, Any suggestions welcome, The shirt with the name and number was done using super flex, it seems to work better but as you say not as durable, They are not good enough to do a shirt as you can see the shirt background. I got samples from other companies but still not satisfied.Thanks again
Tim
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I press ultra cut at 155 degrees for 10 seconds with medium pressure unless its a polo shirt and peel while hot.
I then overlay any colours needed using the same time, heat and pressure.
The only reason I can see for this happenning is that you are pressing too hot for too long, you say you use paper first?
what kind of paper, is it silicon release paper?
If using a teflon sheet (the thick plastic one) sometimes it will stick just for a second due to vacuum or heat, so give it a couple of seconds before pulling.If pressing superflex dont forget that is a cold release material and can only be released luke warm/cold.
the only reason I can think for the transparency is that it is dye sublimation ink on those jerseys and it is bonding with any polyester content in the flex and showing through.
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Thanks Steve will try it at those lower temperatures, Using xpres recommended settings for this material just, Using xpres silicon release paper first then the thick plastic one over it again. It must be these shirts, not suited to these type of flex, i don’t see much difference in these and football shirts. Have used the samples from other suppliers also with same results,The shirt is always coming to the front. have one shirt away with magictouch to see if they can come up with a good result, This is being done worldwide now with these shirts so I’m going to have to keep searching for the right one. (!)
Thanks Tim
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jeeez, should have my printer and consumables this week, what have i let myself in for!! lol!
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not only that hugh but realizing it has a plastic zip, after pressing dont help 😕
chris
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Given the fact it seems to be only black showing through it has to be something to do with the ink I would imagine, what is the white ink there?
it cant be dye sub ink as you cant print white, is it screen printed at all? -
Plastic zips should be fine, if pressed for 10 seconds at the right temp and pressure, Ive done loads on fleeces and jackets.
They shouldnt melt at all. -
Thanks Steve will try it at those lower temperatures, Using xpres recommended settings for this material just, Using xpres silicon release paper first then the thick plastic one over it again. It must be these shirts, not suited to these type of flex, i don’t see much difference in these and football shirts. Have used the samples from other suppliers also with same results,The shirt is always coming to the front. have one shirt away with magictouch to see if they can come up with a good result, This is being done worldwide now with these shirts so I’m going to have to keep searching for the right one. (!)
Thanks Tim
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Deja Vu? 😮
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Went for my lunch at work and must have pressed refresh and it reloaded 😛 , Not sure on the shirts but if you were to do a google on motocross shirt printing there is loads in England doing it , not so many near me, The shirts I have done a couple of years ago by local companies are maybe 8/ 10 times thicker than super flex or ultra flex, they actually could stand up on there own :lol1:
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they are more than likely screen printed then, does the print have a plasticky feel to it?
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Yeah the stuff is like plastic , but it is diff cut as you can feel the layers.
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Its not cut,
plastisol ink will be put on in layers, with darker colours there may be an underbase too making it thicker.
I imagine it is plastisol screen printed jerseys you have there. -
Will take a photo of it tomorrow to let you see, thanks once again for your input, oh by the way I ordered a c5600 oki printer, will get a R1800 then after.
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Here is some better results with Super flex ( xpres ) good for polo shirts so far.
The other shirts is the material I’m trying to track down, its so heavy that there will be no bleed through as its like rubber, its unlike any of the transfer samples i have received so far, Anyone any suggestions, its layered.
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If it feels like rubber then it is almost certainly either a plastisol printed transfer, or a direct to garment screen print.
Its possible it is easy flex, that’s thick but it is more of a matt finish, and not as shiny as your samples. -
Finally able to get a product to work as I need it ,Have tried samples from every supplier I could. Need a little advice on my next step but, The settings I’m supposed to use where 160 degrees for 20seconds at medium pressure, so I had to reduce to 145degrees for 15 seconds. At the recommended settings it was terrible but as like the picture its almost correct when i used my own settings, When I layered the first layer white down and removed the carrier it had zero bleed, perfect , then when I added the second layer for same 15 seconds I got bleed from the black of the shirt, not heavily noticeable but I can see it up close. Any ideas ? Keep reducing the heat further?
Will this affect the strength of the transfer using less heat? All corners seem good.
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Try my settings
155 for 10 seconds, medium pressure, cool peel then press next layer for same time and pressure.
I’ve never had a problem like it and we print tourists own football tops worth anything up to £40 each, so its not a problem I would like arising, and as yet it never has. -
Try knocking pressure back – once you’ve overlaid all the vinyls give the whole lot a final press with tad more pressure!
What printer have you printed with??
Ade
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Its cut T shirt vinyl, not printed.
But is being pressed onto dye subbed garments, the ink seems to be bleeding through the flex even though we have had him reduce temp and pressing times.Like I say, medium pressure, (mind you my medium may be light to some of you) 155 deg for 10 seconds.
If that doesnt work, get them to change supplier of the moto x shirts.
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These are cad cut , No printer. Purchased a OKI 5600 but even the new WOW material from the magic touch failed to keep out the bleed through, So everything cad cut, I think I need to have something along the full solvent if I’m to do print and cut with these shirts.
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steve, what were the sheets from xpress with the silver backing to stop bleed through, do they still do it, it was very good, any pressure with no bleed
Ian -
Not sure Ian, never used them as I havent ever had this problem, I must say I havent seen them on the website either so maybe they dont do them any longer.
You could try here to see if its a problem http://www.t-shirtforums.com
Its a bit like this site but for garment printers. -
just looked on there web site, its easy cut
ian -
only one problem with it is you can not layer one on top of the other, just side by side
Ian -
Oh easy cut, yes they sell that.
never used it mind as it comes on a4 sheets -
no lot bigger, think its about 550 by 400, but it the best material for sticking, great on overalls as it melts into the garment, and nothing shifts it, but like you say its only in sheet format and if you’re doing lots its not much good
Ian -
Maybe Im thinking of the glow in the dark vinyl, one of them are A4, Im sure I read.
didnt seem like a very cost effective size. -
Back to the drawing board with this again, the 155 degrees 10sec on each layer, 60 degree wash and tumble dry , the lines came back and it lifted?
That’s from all the suppliers I know off,don’t want to list them in case someone is offended. need a subli blocker vinyl if you know what i mean, Any other suppliers I can try as I have cad cut shirts here from other companies that work well, Just got caught with £ 500 worth of the stuff which worked well on the colour samples I had, its the light colours especially white with the problem.
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Hi all,
Joined this thread a bit late so had to browse through a few times to get all info. If Steve can’t get to the bottom of your problem I doubt I can but I need a few questions answered.Is the press a renowned make or cheapo import?
Is the press you are using brand new?
Does it have even heat and pressure across the plate?
Have you pressed plain t’ shirts and did the wash/tumble dryer test on these?Cheers John
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Brand new press from magic touch – 38×50 atkins I think, only done less than 50 presses, Can do polo shirts etc no problems, Problem was with the bleed through on the di sublimation poly shirts , used target transfer premium on this one with not recommended settings ( they are 160 20 sec med pressure ) I used 155 / 10secs each layer to help reduce bleed through , it helped but I am guessing its just not suitable .
Thanks
Need a vinyl that will block everything ?
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Try flexi cut from xpres, or the one from Grafityp, its either pu or ps cant remember, but its the one with no sticky backing, they are way thicker than normal and may help.
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Time think this is the material you need
Ian
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Have you a name for it Ian? anything is worth a try at this stage
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easy cut from xpress, but has sublimation backing
ian -
Hi
i use Easy cut have done for years, £1.60 a sheet & you can normally get 8-12 breast logos out of a sheet, very easy to use since they have been putting it on the polyester backing. If you are doing loads it takes seconds to feed new sheets into the cutter. Can be boil washed & ironed over with no problems, goes on to water proof hi viz jackets well to.Kev
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Kevin, is Easy cut very stretchy and does it break after a few washes. I have tried a sheet based product before and it lost all of it’s elasticity and cracked after about 6 washes. Are the whites and yellows very opaque on dark garment and can you overlay? Sorry for all the questions as you’ve used it in the real world I’m sure you have a good idea.
Regards
Alan D -
I have my Xpres spec sheet for the sheet materials here and it says you cant overlay Easy cut.
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No Alan, its great stuff very durable, have a 4 yr old shirt and its as good as new, you can cool iron over it, wash, tumble, nuclear bomb it, we almost, the down side is as Steve said is sheet size
Ian -
How about opacity Ian
Alan D -
the one with the silver backing is fine, without it its OK but not perfect
Durability i the best though
Ian
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