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Experience on cut vinyl stencils please?
Hello ALL ,
Hope you are all well.
Can anyone share their experience with using vinyl cut stencils to paint a logo on a canvas type awning.
My client wanted their new coffee brand painted over their existing coffee brand.
This was a circle , so i painted out the circle no problem with a suitable white paint.My next challenge was to paint the logo in black on the newly painted surface which had a slightly rough texture to it after the paint dried.So i placed the vinyl cut stencil and painted over it to find it bled through.
Can anyone recommend a process or a product that will stick firmly to a rough surface so i t can painted and not bleed through around the edges ?
I used some scrap vinyl which went on fine but after i removed it i found it had bled through…… yes bugger !
Any help would be great .
Cheers,
PJ -
10 Replies
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You have answered your own question, its the rough texture finish that is causing the problem. the texture is creating gaps around the perimeter of the letter.
when you apply the paint the paint goes into these gaps allowing it to bleed into the area you dont want paint.personally, i think painting onto canvas using a vinyl stencil would possible fail too for the same reasons, but if you managed to get it to work then good.
a concern i would have on your paint used. if it is snow brittle / hard you may find it could crack and flake, and possibly discolour over time.
ok, a solution… maybe!
use a cast vinyl or a good brand of vinyl at least.
apply it and once on, heat it as hot as possible without scorching.
to do this you must keep the gun moving at all times waving it side to side till you build up the heat. then using a doubled or tripple up soft cloth wrapped around your fingers. dab firmly the very hot vinyl around perimeter of the graphic where you want to prohibit the paint bleeding under.
if this is working you will instantly begin to see the actual grain of the paint through the vinyl.
once done…
using a small brush with little paint on the brush and back fill the graphic.
however, when doing this your strokes should not push out towards the edges of the graphic.
your strokes should start ontop of the vinyl coming "into" the graphic in one direction always. an as i said, minimal amount of paint. let it dry… then repeat till you build up the colour strong.
warm the vinyl and begin to peel it away. do not pull the vinyl back off or you may remove the paint. try tugging back at an acute angle to help prevent removing the paint below.the above "might" work… but i would suggest testing on something similar if you can, first.
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we`ve done a couple of marquees.
1st one it was the name on the front, we just heat press t shirt vinyl onto it.
2nd, we printed onto banner material and the owner sewed it onto the marquee
wont mask vinyl be ok, we use this before we had a printer. just the design out of the mask and then roller the ink on. I`m pretty sure we had it from europoint……. many years ago.
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The other option is to use a spray gun, which is more forgiving, less build up at the edges many many passes, the choice of material. For awnings , like sails as in boat sails, different materials, require a different approach every time, nylon sails can burn through with certain paints, heavy canvas is more absorbent. There is no right or wrong way to do it, just down to experience, I would tend to go down the route of using the same technique you would do a pop up awning, same kinda water proofing on the material can solve problems , namely acts like an under coat, or reverse as Rob said can cause a brittle effect if dried to quickly, . I would opt for hobby spray gun, using sand blast masking ( sticks very well, use a very small wallpaper roller) try using acrylic paints thinned down to use with the spray gun , gently does it. A few airbrush videos on you tube to get you started.
Oh and good luck -
Learn to signwrite. Simples!
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quote Mike Grant:Learn to signwrite. Simples!Ditto
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If you find sign-writing hard, but have a cut mask, a quick cheat would be; Use a soft "B2" ish pencil to draw around the inside edge of the mask then follow Mikes suggestion above and do it traditionally.
Good luck with it.
Neill -
hi
paint it white after you have placed the stencil and then black then the white will bleed not the black
regards
Arnt -
Hello All,
Firstly i would like to thank you all for your valuable feedback, its amazing to see the experience out there and the great practical processes that can be used to achieve the result i am looking for.
I call my self a new generation sign writer who has learned via the digital process and REALLY admire the guys who can still hand paint.In the 4yrs of sign writing this is the first time i’ve had to use a stencil to produce a painted sign on a canvas yawning.So you live and learn.
Thanks for help and i will use a combination of a few techniques mentioned in this post.I have used a paint designed for canvas so i am hoping it will hold together over time.Well this is according to the suppliers.
I like the ideas of using a cast vinyl as stencil material and a little heat also the white paint first to seal edge before the black goes on.
Let see how i go……
Cheers,
PJ -
We use Metamark blue or Mactac grey masking vinyls but don’t leave them on the substrate for too long around 4 hours max.
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after applying the mask have you tried heating the edges to soften the vinyl in to the gaps?? or use a wrap vinyl??
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