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drilling acylic
hi all whats the best way to drill acrylic i have to drill 8mm holes in acrylic sheet 8 holes in 19 sheets approx 3metres square .
the problem stems from.https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.p … ron#129162
Do you remember the pics i posted of the foamex which had distorted behind the acrylic sheets
the foamboard is being replaced by bannervinyl (printed) now the problem is the space behind the banner the acrylic is being sucked in and then bursting out of the frames and shattering needless to say my mate is crapping himself over this and needs to get them secured
the idea is to pack behind the vinyl with squares of foamex around the edges at the corners and a couple of strips across the centre and screw through the acrylic just at the edges to be honest i think its going to be a nightmare i have tried drilling this stuff pilot hole is ok but anything bigger it starts to split and crack even tried masonery drill and this sort of burns through but uneven hole and also tried countersink drill bit any suggestions ! i have to be on site at 7 in the morning
Derek Heron -
12 Replies
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What I use – with near 100% sucess rate is a flat wood bit.
The key to stopping ‘break-out’ at the rear is to put a sacrificial piece of acrylic directly under what you are drilling – the drill ‘thinks’ it’s one thick section and so doesn’t chip the exit of your good piece.
An 8mm NEW HSS drill bit will also work but can have the nasty habit of ‘grabbing’ and cracking.
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This type of drill works well…
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/2/prod … -19870.htmNick
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thanks david i have just tried a screw fix screw the ones for fixing to cladding drills its own hole and then selftaps its way in went ok thats one problem but because it goes into the foam board and then the metal wall its pulling the head through the acrylic looks like i will have to drill the acrylic drill the foamboard then put the self drilling screw back in and into the wall making sure the threads do not catch
i will see if i have some flat wood bits
back to the work shopDerek
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hi nick just missed your post are they the same as flat wood bit as i have just tried one of the lip and spur ones as they are called that i had and its great
what time is b+q open as i can only find one
thanks guys feel much better about this now.
well drilling the acrylic anyway,
😮 The rest of the job
i will be flat out tomorrow and will hopefully have some news! 😉
tomorow night
RegardsDerek
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No, not same as ‘lip & spur’ – but work on very similar principle.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/8/prod … -22049.htm
except they come in anything from a 6mm to 38+mm!
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I never tried the wood bits on acrylic, but when used on wood to get a nice crisp finish, only let the point penetrate the panel, then turn over and drill from the other side.
Dont know if this will help,
Peter
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Acrylic bits have an altogether different tip.
http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp … Sep/Oct-01
We had all kinds of problems because our customers have to drill our product on site and we solved it with tapered bits. You drill with high speed and have to remember to let up when you’re through.
These are a life saver!
http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subc … rce=google -
Tile and glass cutting bits work well for me on acrylic
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/1/prod … -22159.htm
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thanks again guys just on my way out the door so will let you know how we got on
Derek
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use a normal steel drill bit but do what u are not supposed to
blunt the bit by boring a concrete block of something similar 😀 don’t laugh yet
the blunt bit will bore easily through the perspex but wont catch. 😎
works every time.
PS drill hole slightly larger than shank of screw to allow for expansion, stops ugly warping when sheet expands -
quote Chris Hooper:Tile and glass cutting bits work well for me on acrylic
http://www.axminster.co.uk/recno/1/prod … -22159.htm
Agreed, these work INCREDIBLY well, but don’t come in a wide variety of larger sizes. These won’t chip the material, catch or cut weird oval holes. Ideal for precision work. But for run-of-the-mill stuff, a very sharp HSS for the smaller holes & sharp wood bits for the larger suffice for day to day stuff. (See post #2)
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thanks for all the help on this drilling went fine yesterday i shall invest in a set both types. there is nothing like having the proper kit for the job
and thanks to you all i have a much better idea of what i need now.Cheers again
Derek
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