quote :
bubbles in which only show up a few hours after you have done the job
Decant the first few mm of resin in to a scrap vessel (plastic cup or old lid) and the bubbles at the top will be in the bin rather than on the decal. Then apply the resin to the decal slowly and steadily around the outer edge then filling in the middle. It will meet the edges itself but it takes practice to get an eye for how much to apply.
Leave for 5 minutes then go over the surface with a micro gas gun to pop any surface bubbles, then check for any other bubbles stuck to the print, using a syringe or other small object (paper clip) gently tease the bubble from the print and chase towards the top of the resin. Do this for any others, leave a few minutes then hit it again with the gas gun. You should only need to flash over them, stay to long in one place and you’ll burn it or set the resin to quickly.
And no once you start you cant change nozzles or keep them for later. You really need to have everything in place, checked and ready to roll. Do you all know about 3m remount to hold the decals down whilst you work?
The guys on ebay – there are a few different variations on what people call doming, all different grades but I dare say the really cheap ones are epoxy rather than polyurethane. This is fine but it’ll go yellow and brittle over time but "automotive grade" polyurethane will last a lot longer. There’s a lot of people charging way over the odds for this stuff as its perceived value is high but we’ve found a sensible supplier and pick it up for £3.40 for a 75ml cart including mixer.
Andy