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colour issue with sublimation printing
Hi there I am new to sublimation printing so sorry if this may be a silly question. I have recently purchased a epson 1290 printer, mug press, heat press from a local company that went bust, when i picked the goods up there was no one there to explain to me how it all worked so i took it away and had a play but the issue that i have is that I can not get the colours to print the right shade. Is there some way of changing the settings? I am using corel draw 12.
Cheers Gareth. -
11 Replies
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Do you happen to know who’s inks you are using in the 1290?
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no i don`t, will i have to find this information out?
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If you can find out it will let you get the correct ICC profile
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I actually bought one last week… just set it up and works a treat, but still to sort out the ink settings like you said.
i know the inks and stuff i have but cant for the life of me remember the name. steve underhill has mentioned them a few times. that should ring a bell… anyone? :lol1: :lol1:
to be honest i havent had time to read and check over things to set it up properly. will have to come back to you on it…
yes, this is a pretty worthless post by me. 😳 :lol1:
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I will have a look for the name off the ink in the morning when i get into the office.
also the yellow ink had been run low before i had the printer they said that they had filled it up which it has but there is no ink going through the lines do you have to do this manually? or will it start coming through when i print?
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Have you pressed the prints? on paper they all look ‘washed out’.
John
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ArTainium and Rotec are 2 subli inks.
And as John says prints will look very faded until they have been pressed.
Dave
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As said Di sub ink on the transfer paper will look very poor and washed out very light in colour. When you have heat pressed them they produce the full colour you would expect.
Ian
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Gareth – as Neil says, you need to sort out the Profile to perfect the colours in your print. Chances are it’ll be Rotech, Artanium, Lyson etc so you could try using those profiles in turn and doing a test print to see which come out ok. I’ve occasionally chosen the D88 profile by accident when printing through my 1400 and the colours come out pretty well.
If your yellow isn’t coming through the tube from the CISS this will affect the end result. You can try removing the tube from the joint on the cartridge then drawing ink through it using a syringe then reattaching to the joint. Do a nozzle check print to see if the yellow is printing (can be hard to see on the paper in some lights) and then a head clean if necessary.
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i have pressed them onto mugs but the colours are lighter than expected. the reds are like pinks. i will try that with the syringe. i will have a play tomorrow and let you know how i get on.
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Without knowing the brand of ink you are fighting a losing battle, the profiles are especially set up for the particular brand of ink yo are using, you can mess about with colour and settings and get it almost right but you really do need a profile to get the full benefit,
the most popular brands are lyson, rotech, sawgrass (artanium)
Manoukian (large format only) etc
You really do need to either find out where the ink has come from and download a profile for your particular model of printer and use it, or empty the bulk feed and buy a new set.
dont just mix another brand with the one you have already unless you want a complete disaster.
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