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coating canvas prints…
Posted by Hugh Potter on December 3, 2013 at 2:53 pmHi all,
I’ve been coating canvas prints with a gyclee type varnish and a roller, the results are not as good as I would always like and this past couple of days (maybe because of the temp?) I’ve had to bin three big canvases.is there any decent alternative to the brush / roll on coatings – maybe an aerosol?
thanks in advance,
HughSteve McAdie replied 10 years, 3 months ago 7 Members · 12 Replies -
12 Replies
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Hugh, it will probably be down to temperature, which means you may get the same sort of results even with a spray on coating.
Is it water or solvent based varnish? If it’s a water based varnish then one of the cheap electric sprayers that people like Wagner do would work OK & easy & quick to keep clean. If it’s a solvent based varnish then you can use the small electric sprayers but if your only doing the odd small job cleaning the gun after use is a bit of a pain.I know there are spray can options available but not tried any of them myself.
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thanks MArtin, it’s a water based varnish I think, bit like pva glue but this time it’s gone all botchy, dried very unevenly but – in hindsight, I think it might have been because it was on a cold glass worktop so maybe it stiffened rather than dried the varnish :-\
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Hugh I’ve got wagner HVLP spray system which works pretty well but if I only have the odd small canvas to varnish then I use a roller like you.
This time of year it is far to clod in the unit to be painting or varnishing so if I have small jobs to do I tend to take them back to the flat & do them there where it’s a bit warmer.JUst another thought, this time of year when its colder it will need a lot more shaking up or mixing before you use it.
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thanks Martin,
All valid points and all to be considered before I varnish the replacement 🙂 -
Hi Hugh
I use frog juice, spray it on after stretching on to the frame
Warren
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thanks Warren,
the issue I have is that often these are large board mounted prints that use a lot of matt black in them (HP water based inks) which mark easily so Ideally I’ll coat them first..
i’ll get some in though..
thanks again,
Hugh -
How big is large Hugh? Frog Juice is good but not the cheapest of products if you have a large area to cover & you don’t need the UV properties it has do you?
Can’t remember the manufacturer but I use to use a spray varnish similar to frog juice but not as good, good enough for what I needed but a lot cheaper than frog juice. Will see if I can find an old invoice.
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Hi Hugh
we use an arosol from a vehicle paint suppliers, we spray it before stretching as you can get marks when fitting it.
note: we do have to use in a well ventulated area due to the fumes. we find it much better than a roller as it leaves no roller tracks etc.
some folk swear by ordary furniture polish……
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I use ‘Inkjet Giclee Lamination’, supplied by Canvas & Stretcher bars.
Sprayed on using a small portable compressor & gun kit bought on offer in Lidls – £50.
Just need to clean gun out well afterwards as it sets hard & blocks.
I always spray, gives a superior finish compared to rollers or brushes, something Galleries have picked up on in the past.
Have used frog juice before – also used it to seal metallic inks from the mimaki.
Satin varnish cost about £30 for 2.5lts last time, a lot cheaper then Frog Juice.
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just as a brief follow up to this thread.. I ended up trying automotice clear satin laquer, it stinks a lot and the windows have to be open upstairs but it works very well.
it’s probably a little dearer that the gyclee pva type laminates but there’s no mess, no cleaning rollers, no roller marks when cold etc. worked well for me so far.
Hugh
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We just use Mr Sheen to protect it from scratching, takes minutes and can be used straight away.
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Place I used to work at used Halfords acrylic lacquer. Just a light spray is all they gave it.
Steve
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