Clear film / over laminate questions

[Gavin MacMillan]

Anyone???

just looking for advice, I know there a few people out there with the versacamm – what do you do????

[Phill Fenton]

Hi Gavin

We have a Cadet and generally use a clear vinyl (Oracal 3651) to laminate prints. We do this by hand (and wet). When it comes to contour cutting this I agree it’s a bit thick and depending on the lettering often the contours end up incomplete due to the combined thickness of the material being cut. Careful weeding (with a scalpel) is then necessary.

Europoint also do a product called Oraguard 290f. This is much thinner (and clearer/shinier than ordinary clear vinyl). We have hand laminated with this (also wet) and had better results when contour cutting. Downside is it’s much more expensive than ordinary clear.

[Stephen Morriss]

I also use a Versacamm, I’ve used both clear vinyl and laminate and much prefer the laminate.

Though I used to do it all by hand I have a laminator now and it makes a huge difference especially when doing long runs of prints, I do try and print all that need laminating at once so I have less setup time etc.

The laminate I use is from Victory design and it’s quite a good price, my printer is the 30" one so I buy a 1560mm wide roll and have it slit in half, this gives me 100m for around £150 which I think is cheaper than buying clear vinyl but yours is the wide versacamm so you’ll not make the same saving

Uniform also do a very cheap one but I found it to be too stiff and no good for prints that have to go round minor curves.

Steve

[Graeme Speirs]

phil

have you ever used the 3651 on a solid black print etc? I only asked as I tried it on sample vehicle sticker and it turned really faded grey colour which worried me?

Have you had good results using this for likes of vehicles etc?

cheers
graeme

ps: have you tried the print then laminate and cut function? I havent had the need to try it but wondered how easy it is to set up?

[Phill Fenton]

Ive used the 3651 clear as a laminate on vehicles with good results but prefer the proper laminate film which is clearer and more glossy and cuts better. Another film I’ve used is the 751 clear which is slightly finer than 3651

The print then laminate then cut feature in troop works a treat once you get your head around how to do it. I haven’t yet tried it in Signlab – I prefer the troop RIP.

[Graeme Speirs]

cheers Ill order some 751 clear and give it a try.

graeme

[Kevin Flowers]

Hi
try some of the Oraguard 210g laminate nice gloss finish

Kev

[Gavin MacMillan]

Thanks for the replies! Given me some things to think about.

I think I’ll get some samples of laminate and try some thinner clear films. I didn’t know you could apply laminate by hand (and wet!) so I’ll definitely be looking in this. Is it possible to apply dry by hand or that just asking for trouble?

Thanks again

Gavin

[steve tomaselli]

Hi everyone, scratching my head with regards to laminating canvas!!! I print on to canvas, and currently having issues with laminating the canvas. I have been using a liquid laminate, which is too messy, and picks up too much dust on the canvas. I’m considering using a spray laminate/varnish of some sort….. any suggestions?? Frog Juice has been mentioned to me…. where do I find this???? I’m currently using the Rowland SP540v

Thank you

[Gavin MacMillan]

As you can see from my previous posts I don’t know very much about this but as I understand it frog juice can crack and split if used on a flexible material like banner and canvas. I guess it depends on what the final job is and how much it’ll move.

Gavin

[Rod Young]

quote smedia:

ps: have you tried the print then laminate and cut function? I havent had the need to try it but wondered how easy it is to set up?

quote Phill:

The print then laminate then cut feature in troop works a treat once you get your head around how to do it. I haven’t yet tried it in Signlab – I prefer the troop RIP.

Hi Graeme,

re: print-cut-laminate in SignLab, using printer that supports cutting functions

• The main concern is to print the job with registration marks, such that you get good cutter alignment after laminating.
• For the key setting in SignLab, you want to go File >> Print and Cut Setup >> Cutter tab, and then set the Printer Cutter Alignment = "Printer’s own registration."
• With SignLab and the Print and Cut Manager, you will want to review the Scheduling settings, and perhaps consider a setting like "RIP and print now, cut later." In the Print and Cut Manager, this is accessed via Queue menu >> Properties >> Scheduling.
• However, until you’re comfortable with the process, just set the queue in a STOPPED state by clicking the Stop Queue button.
• This will hold the job in the queue, which allows you to right-click and choose either Print or Cut from the context menu.

There should be an Installation Manual in the SignLab package that lists the steps for configuring such a job. If you need more info, then please let me know.

Cheers,

Rod at CADlink

[steve tomaselli]

quote Gavin MacMillan:

As you can see from my previous posts I don’t know very much about this but as I understand it frog juice can crack and split if used on a flexible material like banner and canvas. I guess it depends on what the final job is and how much it’ll move.

Gavin

Thanks.

I’ve actually just done a few test runs using a ‘Frog Juice’ equivelant…… it’s bloody awful stuff…… the edges of my canvas once wrapped around the frame, have cracked horribly!!! AGGGHHHHH!!!
I’m having a nightmare! Any further suggestions on liquidlaminating anyone?? Thanks

[Gavin MacMillan]

Stretching it then spraying?

Sorry cant be any more help!

[steve tomaselli]

Ye tried that, pretty much same results, gutted.

Going to have to go back to a liquid laminate…. maybe try applying with a roller??

[Gavin MacMillan]

I’ve got some liquid lam here but haven’t tried it yet. I’m planning on using those foam rollers so that there is no dust/fluff coming from the roller (probably just everywhere else!)