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  • Cleaning engraved anodised plates

    Posted by John Hughes on September 8, 2011 at 9:12 am

    Good morning.

    Which is the best way of doing this please.

    Currently we use a plastic disc wrapped in a cloth then soak in meths but it takes for ever. The majority of the ink comes off reasonably easily but it’s where the ink as soaked in to the surface is the problem.

    See attached pic.

    Thanks

    John


    Attachments:

    Andrew Bennett replied 12 years, 3 months ago 6 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • Andrew Blackett

    Member
    September 8, 2011 at 3:04 pm

    Hi John,

    We used a 3M fine sanding pad (the ones that look like a sink sponge) and some turps. Should draw the paint off without removing all the anodised surface.

    When its clean just wipe off with a clean soft cloth

    Andy

  • Andrew Blackett

    Member
    September 8, 2011 at 3:05 pm

    Oh and when you’re using the cloth try proper thinners rather than meths, its stronger so will draw it off a bit quicker

  • Bobby McCormack

    Member
    September 8, 2011 at 10:08 pm

    paint thinners and quick wipe!

  • Michael Egan

    Member
    September 17, 2011 at 2:54 pm

    After using meths with the wrapped disc technique I always do the same again with Peek polish .Brings the surface up a treat and removes minor scratches.Especially good with brass memorial signs 😉

  • John Hughes

    Member
    October 1, 2011 at 5:26 pm

    Sorry for late ‘thank you’..

    In the end we cleaned off surplus ink with meths/rag/disc and followed up with Peek/rag/disc – worked a treat.

    thanks for replies and help.

    John

  • Peter Bedford

    Member
    January 20, 2012 at 11:15 pm

    If you are using cellulose enamels, clean with fairy liquid and warm water to remove all cutting fluids before filling with enamels. If small lettering just fill with card or finger large lettering use glass syringe with big needle clearing air before filling, clean of most of the excess paint with a piece of stiff card we use old business cards, cook in the oven just to start setting the enamel, then wrap a 50p coin (must have a raised edge) in a piece of T shirt or soft rag twisting the rag tight leaving one flat face of the 50p. Mix some parrafin with cellulose spirit and dampen the rag on the 50p face and place flat side of coin and rag on the SAA surface gradually working in circles clean off any excess paint. Keep the rag slightly moist and keep changing rag face regularly dont let the paint build up. When clean re cook to complete. This works with plastics and acrylics but obviously no heat just takes longer for the celluose to dry.

  • John Hughes

    Member
    January 21, 2012 at 10:18 am

    Cheers Peter, thanks for this.

    What do you use for electrical sockets – just a wax crayon ?

    John

  • Peter Bedford

    Member
    January 21, 2012 at 9:21 pm

    No we still use enamel, I think some of the suppliers like Mastergarave and Trotec sell special enamels but we have always used cellulose but getting hard to get, its cheap and a litre lasts for ever. HMG in I think its Petersfield Hampshire but I have their number if anyone needs it. Only use white wax on cup bases nothing else. Pete

  • Andrew Bennett

    Member
    January 22, 2012 at 2:10 pm

    If its anodised its a dye not ink.
    Soak it in bleach or get some anodise dye remover.

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