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can i re-use perspex for a lightbox?
I’m predominantly a boards and banners man and to date have not messed around with iluminated signs and the like. In fact I don’t often fix at all. However…all of a sudden I’ve three shop fronts to quote for and one has a Lightbox which it seems I can take the trim off of and slide the perspex(?) panels out from. What I need to know is…..
1. Can I re-use the perspex and just clean and recover it in translucent vinyl (I propose to stick raised letters to the front in place of existing vinyl graphics). Or does it age and get brittle so would I be better off buying new and what would I use…Clear Perspex?
2. How best to join the two pieces( there’s currently an inch gap between the panels)
3. What would you reccomend for sticking the letters to the face of the sign?
(hot) (hot) (hot)
and4. I’ve a new shop front to do which I believe will need a new Lightbox. I’m assuming I can buy one ready made(?) from someone…..any offers?
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7 Replies
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Try Northern signcases or Kestrel Signs for your new ones
Yes it is possible to remove and clean up the perspex panels but its not till youve cleaned them can you really evaluate thier state.
Normally you would use an opal perspex thier are various decrees of opacity (let different amounts light through) if you need to do this then provided they were fitting properly you have a template for the new ones.
Clear can be used but if your face is not perfect it will show.
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Martin, you could also try Universal for a new box. 0117 955 9091.
As for using the existing panels as Bob has said you cant really tell untill you strip them what contition they are in but quite often they will go a yellowish colour with age and where you clean the graphics off are a nice white colour. I normally replace the panels if I can but I explain to the customer the different options and then let them make the choice.
Normally as Bob says use an opal acrylic and the edges normally just butt together, if you start trying to put strips in to join them you create an area where the light acts differently and you will see the joins.
Europoint, Amari Plastics, Cox Plastics all sell opal acrylic and will cut it to size for you. -
I would advise against just butting up the joints of a panel you will see light down the joint. rebate the edge half way through the thickness of the perspex (5mm sheet 2.5mm rebate) you would also be advised to glue some hanging strips to the top of the panels to avoid panels blowing out. If you also leave the hanging strip overlapping onto the next panel you can join the panels together via a tapped bolt or screw before fitting the frame trim in place. As for glue for letters I would use chloroform and apply with a brush to bond perspex to perspex
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Thanks chaps……..I’ll get the survey done and see how we progress……
What’s a hanging strip Alex?
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basically its a strip of perspex about 10mm deep by the thickness of the perspex (5mm) which is bonded to the back of perspex sheet all along the top edge so the sheet of perspex hangs in the lightbox rather than sitting along the bottom of the box (which can cause the sheet to sag on big panels) It also helps stop panels blowing out because if you look at a standard lightbox you will see that the top edge of the box has a place for the hanging rail to sit when you put the front beading back on this traps the perspex and in most situations it will not be able to blow out. If no hanging rail is fitted and the wind blows the joints apart then there is nothing stopping the panel from being pulled out of the box and i am sure you have seen many signs down the high street with panels missing see how many have hanging strips fitted I bet not many have!!!
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Martin anothe importantr point to bear in mind perspex can and will expand in warm and contract in cold weather you must use end springs this also helps to keep the panels tight up together i would certainally go along with cutting the panels half lapped so when the panels expand they stay supported Northern signcases are very good and helpful good luck illuminated work is very different to bench work get a COMPETANT FIXER and make sure he has adequate public liability insurance. If you use a fixer who does not take out insurance and the job goes wrong ie hits a passer by you are liable.There are many Health and Safety issues here. The subject of general and fixing legal liability will, i am sure, be of interest to all members does anyone know all the ins and outs?
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Sorry if i did not get the point about the hanging strips over correctly but if you overlap the hanging strip from one panel onto the next panel by about 75mm you can then put a screw or preferably a tapped bolt into the next panel via the hanging strip thus creating one completely joined fascia which cannot come apart
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