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  • can i get away with butting 2 bits of dibond together?

    Posted by Shane Drew on December 12, 2005 at 3:57 am

    I have a job to do that is 10m long, and will be dibaond face on a 40mm x 40mm aluminium frame.

    I am using 4m lengths of dibond, and will be using extreme double sided tape to stick it to the frame, with a rivete on the corners.

    The question is this:

    Is it best to butt the two and 1/2 panels together, or should I overlap it? Butting the joint would be a better finish, but will shrinkage be an issue?

    …. also, does the dibond expand in the heat to cause it to bow in the areas that are not supported?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Cheers

    Shane Drew replied 18 years, 4 months ago 4 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Nancy Wannous

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 4:33 am

    Hi Shane,
    That doesn’t answer all your questions but this site talks about Dibond i read it and i got an idea as well. http://www.bayplastics.co.uk/Product Materials/prod-dibond.htm
    i think overlap the panels is good idea.
    Nancy

  • Peter Normington

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 9:20 am

    Shane I would butt the panels together, but glue a pieces of dibond on the back one on each panel so they keep the joint together, or alternativley use panel locks, I presume there is a void behind the panel?

    Peter


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  • Shane Drew

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 11:27 am

    Thanks for the replys

    Not sure what you mean by a panel lock mate, but after giving this more thought, I am thinking of getting the frames built to the same size as the diabond, with an upright every 2m, so I can butt them fairly easily just by boltling the frames together.

    I was not keen on the overlap idea as the joins will be obvious because of the thickness of the dibond sheets.

    There will be a void of 2m between the uprights. Will this be a problem do you think? or should I go with uprights every metre?

    Thanks again

  • Nick Minall

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 11:37 am

    This is a panel lock Shane.

    http://www.signmakersproducts.ltd.uk/

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 11:44 am

    Thanks Nick, never seen them here unfortunately. I usually just do a rebate then run an extra piece down the length at the rear like a blind join sorta thingie. 😕

  • Peter Normington

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 7:06 pm

    Shane
    At first I presumed the sign was wall mounted, Is it to be mounted on a frame twixt posts then?
    At 400mm deep dont think you will have any probs, if the frame is strong enough, With 40x 40 square ali horizontals, I would think 1m spaced uprights would be OK
    or you could use some lightweight alli angle to make a nice frame and bolt or rivet to the top and bottom of the main frame to hide any fixings

    I was going to put a drawing below, but as the post has been moved to another forum, I dont know how to do it.

    Peter

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 9:14 pm

    Thanks Peter.

    The sign is 1200 high by 10m long in total. I am going to use 4000 x 1200 sheets. I’ll go with the uprights 1000 apart tho.

    The frame is welded by an engineering co and very strong. The sign will be bolted onto telegraph style poles, 6m in the air.

  • Peter Normington

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 9:25 pm

    sorry Shane, dont know where the 400mm came from, anyway, for that size of sheet i dont think I would rely on adhesive tape, I know airplane are glued together nowadays,, but I always prefer mechanical fixings. If you are going to rivet the corners thenit would be better to use rivets for all the fixing, except on the uprights, and hide them with a frame, either way at the height you are mounting small fixings will not really show.

    Peter

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 9:35 pm
    quote Peter Normington:

    sorry Shane, dont know where the 400mm came from, anyway, for that size of sheet i dont think I would rely on adhesive tape, I know airplane are glued together nowadays,, but I always prefer mechanical fixings. If you are going to rivet the corners thenit would be better to use rivets for all the fixing, except on the uprights, and hide them with a frame, either way at the height you are mounting small fixings will not really show.

    Peter

    Good advice (again), Thanks for that mate, might do both 😮 ,

    Cheers

  • Peter Normington

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 9:40 pm

    Or… route a 40mm return, form a tray, Looks neat, no fixing to be seen.
    Sorry for not giving the best and obvious answer first, I really am a plonker sometimes….

    No, dont agree with me my ego is rather low at the mo 😕

    Peter

  • Shane Drew

    Member
    December 12, 2005 at 9:44 pm

    :lol1:

    I’m off to work now.

    cheers

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