can anyone help with cadet Profile set-up please?

[Robert Lambie]

just quickie reply for now mate.. use the md5 profile for orajet digi film. works exactly the same 😉

[John Cornfield]

A profile is specific to machine, media, ink and rip. It is the best combination of ink coverage and comnination of colours inkload, passes etc to get the best print quality.

Through luck some profiles work on other media and i agree with Rob the MD5 profile pretty much covers most of the media we use.

There are a lot of cadets out there now and most of the reputable manufacturers will supply profiles via their websites so you can get a few other profiles.

Problem medias have been for us on the grenadier VWS, EZ apply we run onyx not troop though we have troop just not running it. Had a lot of problems getting the VWS profiled Hexis have a profile fo rthe cadet. EZ apply turns to gum on the grenadier on any of the profiles and we have been told that it cant run on the grenadier so would be interested to know if anyone is running it.

I think it could be a good idea to have a profile swapping forum. Though i get the impression most people are not sharing the info thay have got on this side of things, though may be wrong.

In answer to your question

identify the profile that matches cadet and troop (only use these profiles)for the media you want to run

most will self extract an install, you may have to import

most of the preloaded profiles will be cross compatable it is just a case of try it and see.

perhaps someone with a cadet can post a list of compatible profiles and media other than for the media it was intended.

Cheers

John

[colmc]

welcome to the steep learning curve of wide format inkjet printing
don’t worry, there’s a whole lotta other stuff going to baffle you too, it never stops. You’ll also need to study colour theory.

(admin-edit) :police3: Please read board rules

[Phill Fenton]

quote colmc:

These machines are marketed as ‘plug and play’ or ‘plug and print’ and earn £1000 a week, not a chance when you don’t know a fig about what you are doing. Unfortunately now not as simple as a pc60.

[

Cheeky so and so!!

Actually I’ve got a pretty good idea about what I am doing and what I expect to be able to achieve with this machine 😮

I’ve only had my machine a couple of days yet it is far more robust and in many ways simpler and more reliable to use than the colorcamm was 😛

I’m looking forward to exploring all of the machines potential 😀

Your reply would have been more useful if you had bothered to actually answer my original query instead of coming back with your patronising statement!!

[colmc]

quote Phill’:

Your reply would have been more useful if you had bothered to actually answer my original query instead of coming back with your patronising statement!!

No mate this wasn’t directed at you, it was a generalisation, digital printers are sold as ‘any one’ can just plug it in and print, this is not the case, its completely different to thermal, which I see as the easiest printer bar a desktop.
Theres a lot of tricks the supplier doesn’t tell you, and if using troop a few hidden ways to acheive better quality prints. Also when contour cutting in design central ( which you’ll probably have on your screen) click the drop down box that says contour and you have a rectangular contour and an ellipse, amazing how many miss this useful feature. Adding profiles you do this through setup in production manager, although i like you have endured problems adding profiles.
Every week or so do an auto cut calibration from the machine, it will print a small box and cut to it, this will keep the machine ( to some degree) cutting accurately to your contour, try not to cut the print as it may curl. Metamark 3/5 series seems not to suffer this problem, strange how the uniform media does considering its metamark?
You may have to keep the heads meticulously clean as the block easily when new, after around 100 metres you’ll find the seem not to block as easily, when manually swab cleaning avoid the engineers trick of dropping the heads from underneath, do it from the maintenance menu
(push cleaning button and on/off button together) it will stop the machine constantly nagging for maintenance and stop you overtightening or misaligning the heads, wiper replace to clean wiper (every few days) is also in this menu, heater warms up quicker(obviously) when ambient temp is warmer, also do an environment test when the temp starts to drop in your unit, flush the pipes to the pump every few days with a little cleaner, and wipe your vinyl before printing if its left on the machine as you’ve probably seen the marks in the print. Sometimes for a strange reason I get a thin black line print all the way down to the left edge? any answers?
The engineer may tell you to ignore the ink remainder menu, I disagree and find it totally accurate .
The machine is not so good on small pieces of vinyl, like your plotter maybe, its annoying when you print something small only to find by the time it has pushed it to the front it gives you an error and will not cut 👿
Get the uniform pantone chart, resize it, print it then add all colours on screen to make a new pallette, name the pallette and load this as default
print colours to this pallette and not what they look like on screen, you may have to adjust the black to 100% black, 25% cyan, 25% yellow, 25% magenta to get a good solid black, this is probably not needed is you set the passes to 8 and slow pass speed to 350 (for slow good quality print) bi-directional, set pass speed to 700/800 bi-directional and passes to 4 for other less critical fast general work, these settings are in the advanced, next to the contour button in production manager.

I bet you went ‘bloody hell’ when they wheeled it in next to your pc60/600 didn’t you 😀

[Phill Fenton]

Thanks for passing on your tips and advice 😀