are 4" built up halo lighting letters available to buy?

[pilot]

It depends on material. We produce most of our built-up letter with HALO effect from stainless steel with depth at least 6 cm (something more than 2 inches). For this material and method is the height too small.

[Richard Urquhart]

we fit L.EDs in builtup letters with as small as 30mm returns but you must use acrylic backs and etch the clear acrylic to stop spotting
rich
let me know if you would like to see some pics

[Greg Young]

quote Richard Urquhart:

we fit L.EDs in builtup letters with as small as 30mm returns but you must use acrylic backs and etch the clear acrylic to stop spotting
rich
let me know if you would like to see some pics

Richard I for one would love to see your pics on how you do these. Thanks Greg

[David McDonald]

Hi

We have used Applelec’s Twister LEDs on the back of flat cut letters without any problems. Just carefully fold the wires flat onto the back of the letters and hold in place with clear silicon sealant.

Will post a piccy in the gallery forum to show you. These were done about 2 years ago.

Cheers
Macky

[Richard Urquhart]

re photos follow this link not the job i was talking about but will still give you an idea
Rich

https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.p … highlight=

[Greg Young]

quote Richard Urquhart:

re photos follow this link not the job i was talking about but will still give you an idea
Rich

https://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.p … highlight=

[Richard Urquhart]

????????? 😀 😀

[Marko YYZ]

These letters are made from a 12mm Sintra material, though any similar material would work (Signfoam, etc…), from 10mm (3/8") right up to 2 or 3" deep. 1" signfoam looks very nice also. Built-up acrylics, aluminum, stainless… etc.

In the sample, the client wanted a brushed aluminum face, so we first applied a 2mil brushed aluminum vinyl to a 4′ x 8′ sheet of black Sintra. We like to use a black substrate because it provides some contrast and helps punch out the letters – all depends on what the customer wants. Sometimes we paint the whole letter a solid color to look like steel, etc.

The material goes face down onto a router table (we used an AXYZ tho any CNC will obviously work) with the premask on. (this is important). Our design calls for the inner portion of the letter to be hollowed out to recess the LEDs. We simply drew a 1/4" inline from the outer edge of the letter – which is to be milled out – save for some chunks that were left where 1/8" threaded mounting pins would attach to the letters.

The LED strips are glued into the recess using hot glue, then soldered together. These strips are slightly different than your typical channel letter modules (we make these), but any flat PCB style modules will work (PermLight Minis, etc, etc). Leads were attached where they could be most easily concealed.

A pattern was plotted onto paper which made for easy positioning and drilling of mounting holes. A dab of silicone is used to secure the letters, while 1/2", 3/4", or 1" foam spacers can be used to ensure they are all equidistant from the wall. The leads are connected from the rear, or the wires can be fished up above a drop ceiling if this is an office/reception type project.

Picture 1) Front of letter, showing black material with brushed aluminum vinyl face:

Picture 2) Back of the letter showing the routed out inner area and LED strips.

Picture 3) LEDs illuminated and mounting pins inserted. Can use pads (as shown) or insert into wall.

Picture 4) Letter spaced about 3/4" from a wall in our shop. We have boards of varying LED types and counts (diodes per foot), depending on what the project calls for. Large letters can require multiple strokes, etc.. We also do these with color changing RGB modules also.

Picture 5) Application in action. The "Platinum" letters were made exactly as described in this how-to. The whole system uses about 35W at 12V DC.

Slim, sleek and very simple for anyone with a router table, or access to one.

For outdoor, materials obviously need to withstand the elements and the LEDs need to be outdoor ready (potted or coated). The main thing is to NOT halo light onto a shiny surface or each diode will reflect. You can remedy this by using a diffusion layer on the back of your built-up letters, or mounting the LEDs onto a clear backer to the letters and bounce the light towards the face first. The reflected light will be much more even on the wall behind the letters.
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[Neil Herbert]

Hi All

Marko YYZ

We completed a job not so long ago using flat cut letters with LEDs but the halo is almost non existent , we are just about to replace a couple of letters fitted with new LEDs (they look similar to yours in the photos) to test the brightness I think our problem is because the background colour is a dark red, would you suggest applying white vinyl cut in the shape of the letters and applied to the substrate behind the flat cut letters?

When you say with the premask on is this a software setting or app tape applied to the vinyl face?

Cheers

Neil

Neil

[Marko YYZ]

Hi Neil,

A dark Red background may be contributing to your problem, but that depends on the color of LEDs you are using also. You probably want top use only Red or White light onto a Red surface, as it will absorb most of any other color.

Using a matte white vinyl will help punch out the LED light that reflects off the wall, but might detract from the intended look of the original design. You could try using an etch type of vinyl (such as 3M frosted/dusted crystal) which will both reflect and diffuse the light as it hits the wall.

The other thing is the type of LEDs and their brightness. If you are using a suitably bright LED then it wouldn’t be an issue. You have to remember that with LED lighting, you get what you pay for. Many companies bring in all kinds of offshore products that are quite attractive cost wise, but really don’t give you the brightness and longevity that you would like.

As for premask – yes, I mean application tape. We often just refer to it as premask. It protects the surface while you’re working with the material, and also makes for a cleaner cut along the edge. Non-masked vinyl material will more easily peel back, stretch or crack when the router bit is either plunged through, or cutting along.

You need to make sure that the back surface is matte, and not shiny. This is important with halo lighting, as a matte (eggshell) paint surface will appear to glow more nicely, while a deep or gloss surface will reflect light more than it be illuminated by the light.

[Neil Herbert]

Cheers for the reply Marko very helpful

I will try all the combinations with my tests and post the results.

Neil

[Roger Weichert]

Hi Marko,

That was an excellent description. Had wondered about the finer points of how that effect was achieved.

Thanks a lot.

Regards, Roger

[Westcoast Sign Guy]

Marko makes a good bright product!

[Neil Herbert]

Hi Marko

Who’s LESs do u use if thats not a rude question.

Cheers

Neil

[Westcoast Sign Guy]

quote DNN Signs:

Hi Marko

Who’s LESs do u use if thats not a rude question.

Cheers

Neil

He makes his own, But he might use someone else’s sometimes 😀