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Anyone have experience making small decals for models?
Posted by Rod Gray on May 5, 2004 at 2:43 pmHi gang,
Anyone have any experience with making small decals for models?.
I have a Hornby Dublo locomotive that could do with some restoration. It`s an easy enough operation apart from the decal kits.
I`ve seen water-slide decals and tbh i`ve never really been impressed by them. Theres always that little edge you can see that totally wastes the look. I`ve spoken to a few model enthusiasts and they reckon these decals are printed on some kind of Alps printer that can print white but i was wondering if there was any other way of doing them apart from water-slide.
Here`s a link to a similiar model of train i have which i spotted on Ebay.
Thanks
Rod
Chris Wool replied 20 years ago 7 Members · 18 Replies -
18 Replies
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Take a look at http://www.lazertran.com they do an inkjet and laser version of water slide transfer paper.
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Sharon,
What printer would you recommend?. White is going to be the most common colour on the decals i`m planning to do.
Thanks
Rod
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I have the inkjet version, which I picked up at the NEC at the same time as the Printwear & Promotion. They didn’t have the lazer version with them at the show.
It says on the packet that the transfer will dry with a white eggshell background. To make it clear you had to apply a clear oil based polyurethane varnish.
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Sharon,
So basically any hi – res inkjet printer will do?
Thanks
Rod
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They say not to use too much ink, as this may allow the image to bleed, let it dry for 30 minutes, cut out then apply as normal water-slide decals.
At only £12.00 per pack it’s worth experimenting with.
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Rod did u honestly think i wouldn’t metion the photo 😀
Bev says that was taken around 20 years ago and 20 stone ago too 😮
HeHe
in the best traditions of EQ
/me Runs and hides long time
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Sharon thanks, you`ve given me enough confidence to have a go :).
I`ll let you know how i get on with them.
Paul,
The shirt i`m wearing in that photo was one Karen bought me when i stopped smoking 3 and a half years ago.
oooh the Irony :p
Notice the white teeth! No pints of Guiness disguising the nicotine stains 😉
in EQ fashion…. /rude
😉
Rod
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Rod i better not stop smoking or drinking Guinness then or i’m <censored> 😛
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quote Mort:Rod i better not stop smoking or drinking Guinness then or i’m 😛
In your case, i doubt it`ll make much difference mate 😉
Rod
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I’ve had quite a lot of experience of making decals using thermal printing and have learned a few things…
Laser and inkjet dont work very well – apart from being limited in the colours you can use, the ink fades really badly after about 6-12 months – not good if you intend to put it on a permenant model !
Also, the ink is really waterproof or lacquerproof so is very prone to smudging.
Basically I’d steer clear of doing it on an inkjet or laser as the results are never very good.
If you want to DIY it, you need to get a thermal transfer printer ( also called microdry ) – either an Alps, Printiva or OKI – one problem is that none of them are made anymore so your only bet is to get something second hand ( risky as the heads are very prone to wear ) or a factory left over.
However, if you can get one of these, you can print in CMYK, plus white, metallic gold and silver and metallic colours.
Certain models also allow true vector printing so you dont get any blurring from printer halftoning.
If its just a one off you’re looking for send me an e-mail as I can run it off for you depending on the design.
Mike
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Thanks Mike and Dan,
I`ll let you know how i get on.
Thanks again,
Rod
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Hiya
Although I personally have not used it, you could try the white spot colour in a PC60 or PC600 onto waterslide decal paper.
I buy waterslide decal paper ex Tullis Russell Coaters in Stoke on Trent phone 01782 202567 they say their web address is http://www.trcoaters.co.uk but I can’taccess it.
Cheers
Alan
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just a thought – it is not advisable to use any COATED media in a thermal machine.
chris
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