Advice on replacing a backlit sign

[Martin Pearson]

Yes it is common practice for opal panels to be rebated so one overlaps the other, reason for this is because it would quite often be impossible to fit the panel if it were all in one piece as they normally slide in from one end, plus most boxes are longer than a single sheet of Acrylic anyway so needs to be in more than one piece. If the edges were just butted together then you would get a very bright light where they join as it is unlikely they will fit together perfectly.

[Dave Harrison]

Apologies in advance for sounding so negative Steve.
What you are asking is so elementary, I almost find it offensive !

Honestly mate I’m not trying to be rude but It’s like going on an electrical forum and asking how to fit the lid on a junction box !

Anyway what martin said. .. plus check its not a PanaTrim style frame, check the panels haven’t got a hanging strip on the top. If it’s your first one it might be an idea to go slide the panels out measure them refit then go order the same from your supplier.

Any good sheet supplier will cut to size and rebate ( lip in the middle ) the panels for you, ask them to put panel locks on too.

Good Luck !

[Andy Gorman]

What you have seen is the normal method for a backlit sign using Perspex. A rebated overlap of an inch sounds a bit large to me, I would only usually go about 3/8ths. Also, although the join will be visible they aren’t usually too bad. Maybe the join has got dirty and is showing up as a dark line. As for sheet sizes, I think 10′ is the biggest you can get perspex so any replacement panel would have to have a join in it. Unless you convert it to a flexface sign, but that’s a whole different story…..

[Steve Goddard]

quote Dave Harrison:

Apologies in advance for sounding so negative Steve.
What you are asking is so elementary, I almost find it offensive !

Honestly mate I’m not trying to be rude but It’s like going on an electrical forum and asking how to fit the lid on a junction box !

Anyway what martin said. .. plus check its not a PanaTrim style frame, check the panels haven’t got a hanging strip on the top. If it’s your first one it might be an idea to go slide the panels out measure them refit then go order the same from your supplier.

Any good sheet supplier will cut to size and rebate ( lip in the middle ) the panels for you, ask them to put panel locks on too.

Good Luck !

Apologies if I’ve caused offense, I’ve explained on a few other threads that I’m very new to the signwriting game but at the same time I’m trying to learn as much as I can and do the best job I can while I’m at it.

The reason I was asking the question is that this is my first big sign and though it may be a simple one I just wanted to make sure that what I was doing was right.

The guy who has asked me to make the sign for him knows that this is my first big sign and he is giving me all the time and space I need to fit it, what better chance is there to have a go and learn from my own mistakes? at the end of the day you have got to do your first sign sometime.

[Martin Pearson]

Steve, everyone has to start somewhere so don’t be put off asking questions for fear of them being to basic. better to ask than go out and do something that could be dangerous both to yourself and the public.
A good starting point would be to buy Phill Fentons book, I haven’t read it myself but a lot of people starting out have said it is very helpful.
If you are serious about signmaking as a profession then you should also think about taking out a membership to the boards. What you will learn from the tutorials will help you immensely.

As for the sign as I said above the panels will normally be slide in from one end, check both ends and at one end the end trim will probably be riveted in place and the other end will be held in place with 2 self tappers.
You didn’t say how deep the box is so be careful when you try to remove the panels because acrylic is not the lightest of materials and the panels can be quite heavy.
Make sure you have the right equipment and insurance to cover you, if you don’t have the equipment hire it locally and make sure you have someone there on site to assist you.

[Steve Goddard]

quote Martin:

Steve, everyone has to start somewhere so don’t be put off asking questions for fear of them being to basic. better to ask than go out and do something that could be dangerous both to yourself and the public.
A good starting point would be to buy Phill Fentons book, I haven’t read it myself but a lot of people starting out have said it is very helpful.
If you are serious about signmaking as a profession then you should also think about taking out a membership to the boards. What you will learn from the tutorials will help you immensely.

As for the sign as I said above the panels will normally be slide in from one end, check both ends and at one end the end trim will probably be riveted in place and the other end will be held in place with 2 self tappers.
You didn’t say how deep the box is so be careful when you try to remove the panels because acrylic is not the lightest of materials and the panels can be quite heavy.
Make sure you have the right equipment and insurance to cover you, if you don’t have the equipment hire it locally and make sure you have someone there on site to assist you.

Thanks for the advice Martin,

I bought Phill’s book when I got my vinyl cutter, I have to admit the knowledge in it has been priceless to me. I’m just in the process of moving house at the minute but when I’m settled I’ll be buying some membership for on here.

The acrylic panels only appear to be 3mm thick but it’s for a Taxi office so it’s pretty obvious that the last sign was made as cheap as possible, hence why I’m double checking on here as I don’t want to copy someone else’s shortcuts thinking they are the right way to do things.