Acrylic on DiBond Tray

[Ian Bingham]

i would use tensel for acrylic bond, but it depends hown good the surface on the trays are , use plenty should be ok
as always test first

[Warren Beard]

quote Ian Bingham:

i would use tensel for acrylic bond, but it depends hown good the surface on the trays are , use plenty should be ok
as always test first

Hi Ian

How would I test it without damaging £500 worth of material??? 😕 😮

Oh and forgot to mention that both sides of the acrylic will be flood coated with vinyl 😕

[Ian Bingham]

get a sample from your supplier of the tray and acrylic, most suppliers are quite good at supplying these

[Richard Urquhart]

if both faces are flood coated then your only sticking to the vinyl and not the acrylic i would tape and not glue as the glue would no work sticking to the vinyl
rich

or if the acrylic can be supported how about clear silicon ??

[Warren Beard]

How will I know if it will be strong enough to support the weight?

Has anybody every attached acrylic to DiBond before at this size?

Thanks all

Warren

[Richard Urquhart]

mate if both sides are flood coated why 6mm acrylic ??

[Warren Beard]

quote Richard Urquhart:

if both faces are flood coated then your only sticking to the vinyl and not the acrylic i would tape and not glue as the glue would no work sticking to the vinyl
rich

or if the acrylic can be supported how about clear silicon ??

Hi Rich

Thanks for the reply,

I’m sure VHB will be fine but my main concern is the weight of the 2 pieces of 6mm acrylic attached to the DiBond.

The acrylic will not have anything to sit on and be attached to the face without touching any other areas of the fascia.

Hope that makes sense.

cheers

Warren

[Warren Beard]

quote Richard Urquhart:

mate if both sides are flood coated why 6mm acrylic ??

Hi Rich

I want to create an effect where the logo will be cut out of the black vinyl on the face (logo should be white) and flood the rear with white. The effect will have a 6mm clear section between the front black and the rear white. (hope that makes sense)

Not sure yet if I will actually do this as it is an idea I thought of but don’t know what it will look like. If it look kak then I will simply flood face black with white logo on top of black. (would still be 6mm acrylic as this is what I would have to order to test my concept 😕

otherwise I just get black 3mm acrylic and apply white logo (normal old style)

cheers

Warren

[Russell Spencer]

VHB will be fine but you will have to run the tape along the 2000mm length on the long piece otherwise it will buckle

[Glenn Sharp]

Warren…I’m not sure if I’ve got the full jist but could you not use tensol to stick the acrylic to the acrylic…no worries there no matter what size

Then use stand off locators for the acrylic to di-bond…they will be invisible from the front so you could use as many as yo needed…just bolt through the cup through the dibond

this might also add another feature to the sign

[Warren Beard]

quote glenn:

Warren…I’m not sure if I’ve got the full jist but could you not use tensol to stick the acrylic to the acrylic…no worries there no matter what size

Then use stand off locators for the acrylic to di-bond…they will be invisible from the front so you could use as many as yo needed…just bolt through the cup through the dibond

this might also add another feature to the sign

Hi Glenn

Stand-offs won’t work because the acrylic is bigger than the tray so stand=offs would go through middle of design 😕 I though of it though :lol1:

I have changed now and will not be using acrylic as it is not needed as it will be flood coated so acrylic finish is wasted, got to find something cheaper and lighter I can bond to DiBond tray and flood coat face.

cheers

Warren

[Martin Pearson]

Warren, you didn’t think about stand offs for long enough because you could use Big Head fastenings. :lol1:
As for a suitable alternative to acrylic why don’t you just use Di-bond or one of it’s cheaper alternatives.

[Warren Beard]

Hi Martin

The reason I didn’t want to use stand-offs are because the rear tray is 625mm and the logo is 900mm, therefore the stand-offs would not be able to go in the corners of the logo as these are suspended in mid air 😮 :lol1:

I am a fan of stand-offs (I just think they look the business) and also want to true get more in to office directory signs and interiors one day (work indoors if you get what i’m saying :lol1: :lol1: )

cheers

Warren

[Martin Pearson]

Warren, not sure if I understand your reasoning on this one, I know that the Logo panel is bigger than the tray and the stand offs won’t fit in the corners but that shouldn’t matter, if you bond the two panels together then there still won’t be anything at the corners of the Logo panel.

[Warren Beard]

Hi Martin

I have put white circles where the stand-offs would go and I don’t like them there.

If they were only stuck from beneath and not through the acrylic to see on top that would be OK but otherwise they would look odd in this position.

[Martin Pearson]

Warren, Big Head fastenings would be bonded to the back of the panel, nothing comes through the panel to the front face so you won’t see anything from the front at all which is why I suggested using then. I personally hate seeing fixings in the front face of a sign and try not to use them if possible.

[Warren Beard]

quote martin:

Warren, Big Head fastenings would be bonded to the back of the panel, nothing comes through the panel to the front face so you won’t see anything from the front at all which is why I suggested using then. I personally hate seeing fixings in the front face of a sign and try not to use them if possible.

😳 😳 😳

Hi Martin

sorry I’m still getting to grips with terminology in this country and this industry, That would work then but for my first tray I’m trying to make it as simple as possible and trying to eliminate any failures due to my ignorance and making the sign unsafe, I would feel better bonding the sheets together than bonding them on to small pieces of plastic nubs 😕 😉 :lol1:

The time scale for this to be done is also tight so have no time for testing and stuff so simple and safe for this one then

cheers and thanks

Warren 😉

[Martin Pearson]

Warren, no problem. Just offering some other options for you to think about. maybe something to think about for the future when you have more time.

[Glenn Sharp]

Warren – if you were to stick with acrylic for the logo section you could tensol on the plastic locators on the back….this will give you a WELD that would last for years

you could put as many on the back as you wanted too because they wouldn’t be seen

that is the way I would go….and just as a fail safe i would silicone the male locator into the cup