Wrapping Advice

[Jason Xuereb]

quote Joseph Helm:

Ive done a couple of vivaro side and back panels in full print.
I don’t think it went too bad, and the customer is happy with the job.

Only problem I had, was the last one had a window on the back, so trying to mold the wrap around the curves of the window, was a big learning curve for me… and having the customer watching, didn’t help much 🙂

I’ve been thinking about full wraps, and I was wondering.

Am I right in thinking the whole process is:

1. Setup image to fit van outline in what ever program you use.

Yes at least 100dpi at full resolution. You can go to 72dpi for larger vehicles.

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2. Send to RIP program… where I’m guessing you tile and allow an overlap (or do you butt them up?)

Overlap at least 10mm. If you butt them up it will shrink back and you will see the body of the vehicle. Sometimes you might want to create the panels in photoshop etc to have full control where the overlaps are especially on vans or passenger vehicles. You can hide overlaps in grooves or door jams on the vehicle thus not having an actual overlap in the application.

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3. Print and fit?

Yes

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What about bonnet’s/boots/doors and wings… do you add extra to go in to them?

Always have/print more material then you need. Vehicle outlines on computers are flat. They don’t take into consideration the extra material you will need going into recesses or over curves.

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Also, does the width of material you use, depend on what you can personally handle?

We use 1370 wide material.

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We want to have ago at wrapping, to maybe offer as a service.
And we have a van we can have a lot of practice on.

I am planning on doing a wrapping course at some point, just wanted to have a go first.

Another quick thing.
Do the courses just cover applying the wrap, or cover design> print> wrap?
And which is the best company to do a course with?

Sorry about all the questions

Thanks in advance

Joe

[Ian Jenkin]

like Jason, we use 1370mm media, and the lads seem alot more comfortable with that sort of size.

Also i find the Impact Vehicle Library is particularly useful when the file has an over head view of the bonnet.

[James Culpin]

I’ve always used 1370 and as already said you can, if clever hide the joins where panels meet or do drops that run down door edge etc.
I have heard that no vehicle on the market has a wider panel than around 1500 so if you can handle it and can print the media that width then you can in theory hide all joins. not done myself as only ever worked with 1370 media.
yes always allow extra material, helps to have larger area to warm to get round contours and also to hold onto without effecting glue with finger marks.
think about removing trim etc, i find it’s worth the little extra time to make for a smoother fit that is more seem less.
with regard to the courses most will cover basic design print etc but you can always take time with course teacher to go over a little more. (any good teacher will gladly spare you the time to go through even if after course).
If your going to do a course then be aware that some people get a third party into take the course so it will end up costing you a little extra.
the Walsall college offer a course.

[Joseph Helm]

Thanks for the advice guys.
Very helpful!

Going to try and get on a course in the next couple of months.

Thanks again

Joe