whats the best way to apply 3D letters onto uneven wall?

[Ian Johnston]

is it proper stainless your looking for, if it is then get threaded bars put on the back 10mm long, drill you holes as normal ,then fill with a polyutherane adhesive, and push your letters into the holes untill the required depth, i’ll post some pictures later to show how to make it work.
we use applelec for the letters and they can supply as above no problem

ian

[David Rogers]

quote Ian Johnston:

is it proper stainless your looking for, if it is then get threaded bars put on the back 10mm long, drill you holes as normal ,then fill with a polyutherane adhesive, and push your letters into the holes untill the required depth, i’ll post some pictures later to show how to make it work.
we use applelec for the letters and they can supply as above no problem

ian

Maybe best make that a bit more than 10mm…. 🙂

Have used this system on several occasions. Studs on the rear that are about 50mm past the return (if any) and using either Evostik Serious Stuff (for a longer working period) or Hilti’s 2 part bond…work quick though as that goes off FAST. I normally ask for spacers to be supplied to slip over the studs to get it evenly off the wall (if flat)…a little trickier on an uneven surface – but not impossible.

[Peter Normington]

Advice given is good,
but a tip to get the letters at even height from the wall.
Run a line between 2 screws, placed top and bottom of the text, to align them

Peter

[Alistair Richards]

Thanks for the advice,

I think that’s answered everything I need to know, good tip Peter about string lines.

Just another quickie, if the threaded stud at the back of the letter is about say 10mm diameter, what size hole would you drill in the wall to give some room for adhesive, about 12mm? and are the stainless letters quite heavy and need supporting while glue is setting off?

Thanks

[David Rogers]

Good tip there from Peter re: string.

the studs are normally only 5mm in diameter and soldered to the rear.

I’d be using an 8mm hole to the desired depth and half filling it…any overspill is a right bugger to remove if it’s going to be visable…ie. just pump in a good blob.

The secure the letters…like stopping them ‘settling’, bend the studs EVER SO SLIGHTLY to splay them out or pull in on the sides of the holes.

Most 3D stainless letters – whilst looking heavy are incredibly light for their size…2mm flat cut is generally never a problem either.

[Ian Johnston]

quote David Rogers:

quote Ian Johnston:

is it proper stainless your looking for, if it is then get threaded bars put on the back 10mm long, drill you holes as normal ,then fill with a polyutherane adhesive, and push your letters into the holes untill the required depth, i’ll post some pictures later to show how to make it work.
we use applelec for the letters and they can supply as above no problem

ian

Maybe best make that a bit more than 10mm…. 🙂

Have used this system on several occasions. Studs on the rear that are about 50mm past the return (if any) and using either Evostik Serious Stuff (for a longer working period) or Hilti’s 2 part bond…work quick though as that goes off FAST. I normally ask for spacers to be supplied to slip over the studs to get it evenly off the wall (if flat)…a little trickier on an uneven surface – but not impossible.

sorry never checked meant 100mm :lol1: :lol1:

[Peter Dee]

After drilling the holes you have to get the dust out or the goo won’t adhere.
Get a small tube and insert it to the bottom. Blow through the tube to eject the dust.
Just watch your eyes when you do this as there will be a lot of it.

[Ian Johnston]

i have posted some pictures on another thread to show how they can work. the really small letters at the bottom are mounted on a flame polished piece of perspex and threaded bars hid behind them, the undulations on the SPA wall were up to 75mm.

Ian

[Dan Osterbery]

we use 10mm threaded bar, drill a 10mm hole with a 10mm hilti bolt that the bar threads into and as you screw them up they open out and grip,(sorry no idea what you would call them in english) and on the bar use two nuts to adjust the letters so they are flush and all level and the second nut locks them off! and the string line is a great tip, works a treat!

can send a photo of one if your interested?? If someone explains how to attach photos!!