whats the best method of de-burring di-bond?

[Phill Fenton]

I have a brilliant tool designed specifically for deburring edges. I don’t know what it’s called but its a small hand held tool with a hooked cutting edge at one end. You simply slide it along each edge and it shaves a the edge off.

I’ll post some pictures later.

[Nick Minall]

I use a de-burring tool, you can find it here, just be careful with it as can dig in on soft materials.

Nick.

[Dave Harrison]

A small fine metal file also does the job !

[Martin Pearson]

How are you cutting it to start with? If you use a negative rake blade which are designed for cutting aluminium and laminates then you should get a clean edge that doesn’t need to be cleaned up. They do tend to be expensive and may not be available for the type of saw you use but if you can get one they are a good investment.

[Warren Beard]

I use one of these, works brilliantly and will even trim graphics that have been applied 😉

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/20388/Han … lock-Plane

cheers

Warren

[David Rogers]

I cut & deburr my di-bond in several ways.

For straight cuts, score 3 times with a stanley & snap or a circular saw with a guide. For anything else a router or even a jigsaw works well.

Deburr with a deburring tool or a file if I can’t find it!

Dave

[Phill Fenton]

Turns out the tool I use is the same as Nick has mentioned

Here’s me in action – deburring. What I like about this tool is it’s very quick. A single stroke and the edge is safe. No need to spend a lot of time filing

[Alistair Richards]

I’ve tried wet and dry, surform plane and back edge of scissors, but at the moment i’m find this best http://www.screwfix.com/prods/26744/Han … one-Coarse

A diamond sharpening stone. Must try a deburring tool though.

[Graeme Harrold]

I use a fine cut Swiss file dragged at 90 degrees to the edge on a 45 degree tilt. By dragging at 90 degrees to the line of travel, you get a very smooth finish.

[Ade Brown]

I’ve tried most of the methods and couldn’t decide on which I prefer due to sometimes I think I’m a bit heavy handed!

smaller jobs like 18"-2′ I tend to pick up the file, I’ve also tried a chisel with a v-ground into it!!

The burr to I am aware of as used to work in Precision engineers producing bearing for turbos and we used to use a de-burring tool before they went to be ground

its nice to hear what we’re all doing!!

I must admit I like the idea of the sharpening stone

think I’ll give that a whirl next time

I’ve just done 3 24ft x 2 ft signs made up of sheets of 8 x 2 cut straight from euro point, most had excessive burrs!!

[John Thomson]

I have done a few shifts working with Andy Boyle……. they use a heavy duty leather working glove….leaves a smooth clean edge after routing or cutting.

John

[Martin Pearson]

Well if I were buying in pre-cut material then I would expect it to come with a clean edge, I would have been straight on the phone to Europoint to find out why it hadn’t been finished off properly.
If they are using the right tools to cut it then you shouldn’t get a bad finish to start with.

[Duncan Wilkie]

We run a paint scraper along the edge at 45 degrees. Give ‘er a try.