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Roland Inkjet Printheads a lot less than you may think.
Just had a supplier contact me with price for Roland printheads. anyone interested.
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34 Replies
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Depends what for, how much and whats the reason for them being cheap?
Steve
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The print heads in Roland inkjets are made by epson they are the same head as the epson 10000 printer here in uk they are any thing from 500-700 quid plus vat. A supplier from a broad can offer the same part £375.00. all you need. they can also supply pumps dampers wipers tubing all of which are solvent resistent. Its like the new eco sol max ink here in uk £50.00 a cart us £30.00 at current exchange rates. So just thought i d post to let you guys Know.
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Hi Keith,
We have a Roland Resolve solvent printer, and use Epson Heads (from the Stylus Color 800/1520/3000). We can get these for around £37 each, but I’d be interested if you know someone who can supply them cheaper.
It would also be very helpful if you, or anyone else, know where I can buy other spares, e.g. docking station, wiper blades, ink reservoirs etc.
Thanks
Danny
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Hi Keith
I would be very intersted if the heads will fit a Cadet which is a Roland machine
(admin-edit-1) :police:
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quote Cookster:Hi Keith
I would be very intersted if the heads will fit a Cadet which is a Roland machine
(admin-edit-1) :police:
Iam prettty sure its the same head finding out for you and will let you know. The important thing though is fitting it is quite pricise are you fitting your self.
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Most of the heads are Epson DX3 heads which will fit soljets , cadets , greandiers , sp300 etc (and many other makes)
Fitting and aligning the heads on a roland machine is another story altogether – make sure you can get into the service menu and know what you are doing. The Agents dont really care to fit heads they havent supplied.
There is one thing with Roland heads , they are guaranteed to 6 billion dots and when we had a head replaced we were charged pro rata in respect to the dots it had printed – which was about 1/2 price. -
I currently looking over an old Mutoh Albatros and might have to source a head for that but we are currently ultra-sonic them and being careful. Our old Albatros doesnt’ get much use now that we got a JV3
However looking at a website offering heads and parts from the fair east, it mentions that the Epson 10000 Print head is for the JV3/JV4, Mutoh RJ8000 and SolJet 540/740. I can’t believe the amount of printers that have the same head, does this mean that the competors machines print exactly the same!
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Hi Dave,
Yes its the same head all made by epson the difference is in how each manufacturer addresse the head with its firmware. I am having to look at a replacement head soon becaus mine is beginning to deflect when printing a test pattern, but before i do replace the head i will change the damper because they can cause trouble as well.You said you ultrasonically clean your heads, do you do it your self or send it away.
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only doing the ultra-soncis as a last resort. We have a bath, funny thing it is, it does make a difference but I am unlikely to put the JV3 heads in it at this stage.
Our Black head on the JV3 is deflecting badly, also think dampers might need changing and also in contact with someone else with the same problems, haven’t made much moves on this yet.
Dave
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the price for the eco sol max should be the same in the usa as it is here after conversion. are you sure your facts are correct?
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quote mark jones:the price for the eco sol max should be the same in the usa as it is here after conversion. are you sure your facts are correct?
Just to clarify….
The White Eco-SOL ink will remain the same at the current price of $119.99 per cartridge.
The new Eco-SOL MAX ink is $59.99 per cartridge and will remain that price going forward.
The best confirmation of pricing is an updated Roland price list available from your authorized Roland dealer.
*****************************
Laura Wilson
Product Manager
Supplies & Accessories
Roland DGA CorporationSo work out the conversion dollor to pound $59.99 / $1.8 current exchaneg rate = £33.33 per cart. So rip off england here we go again.
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having not long ago fitted a new black head to my sc540 i can tell you its not for the inexperienced the actual fitting is a bit fiddly but the lining up etc seams to go on forever but all worth it in the end. my advice is unless you have done similar before and have a manual by your side don’t even think about it.
Chris
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We have a Mutoh RJ8000 only been used less than 4 hours from new, just taken out of storage after 3 years, we installed InkTec bulk pigment inks in CMYK Orange, Green & light C, M. the printer has 4 double heads, when we tried to get it going light Cyan was blocked, no amount of cleaning cleared it, all other colours printed OK, then Green & Orange stopped (both are on one head)
Stripping the printer we found that 3 head fuses were blown on the main board, the distributor told us that this could be caused by a faulty head cable or even a faulty head, the fuses relate to the G/O head and the LC which are not working
At this stage we are still attempting to source the fuses, these are soldered on the main board apparently rated at 2 amps, they have the number "50" on top and "12" underneath.
I would be very interested were to get parts at a realistic price for the RJ8000 or Epson 10000 apparently they are the same heads.
I have also asked the Mutoh distributor for the RJ8000 board schematics but have been told that it’s impossible. 😥 [/c]
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so my thoughts are that the solvent in the heads has eaten away too much in the head? melted whatever is there?
Yes, I think ur right it is an epson 10000 head according to google. With regards sourcing heads away from your suppliers, its damn hard work and its getting harder
I still yet to do ours or weither to go back to contract.
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(mod-edit) no advertising! Please read the board rules https://www.uksignboards.com/rules.php before posting admin@uksignboards.com
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We replaced all of our soljet heads recently. Our machine is about two years old and has been converted to itl inks. Instead of buying the heads seperately we bought from an epson supplier Unicomp and paid £650 for a block of three. There were a few modifications to be made by our engineer, but we saved ourselves a small fortune. The only thing we had to do was find someone with an epson 10000 obtain a serial number from them. Apparently they will not sell to anyone unless they have an epson printer.
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I have heard about this too about the serial numbers
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we have a Uniform grenadier which is just a roland soljet. But also have an Epson 9600… would this serial do? or does it have to be the 10000 model?
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hi there,
well.. i can help you out if you need some assistance on the serial number thing…
yours jan 🙂
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Hello,
I am also interested in head IDs…the original Epson IDs are not compatible with roland’s, so where do you guys get them? Also the head top plastic must be replaced with solvent resistant version if using Epson heads in Eco-solvent printers…
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quote :the original Epson IDs are not compatible with Roland’s
when i replaced my black head the Epsom id entered and worked ok on a sc540 ex the number and letter code entering was a bit strange at first. but made some sense in the end.
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Hi,
Well I have two of these and believe you me when these start giving you the maintainance nightmares it is best to get the professional help.
How did you manage to install INKTECbulk ink system BYPASSING THE CHIP SECURITY??
WHEN YOU USUSALLY TAKE THE PRINTER OUT OF STORAGE IT IS BEST TO REPLACE THE PRINTHEADS WITH CYAN INKS SINCE, there is no way to clean THIS ink from within the head.
I would advise changing the capping stations too on this machine since the rubber gets hardened during storage.
I have an old parts list which part# of head fuse given as MU+MF-5012 (Fuseheads on mainboard).Check it out with your local Mutoh supplier/distributor.The head fuses usually blow due to a short circuit or faulty connection in Ribbon cables of CR board to printhead or the printhead electronics failure due to inks or cleaning solution spilled on it during maintainance etc.And a major cause is due to clogging of printheads.. when no inks can pass through the Printheads the circuit becomes hot and an overcurrent is generated in the printhead blowing the fuse on the mainboard.Even if you clean the printheads manually somehow without spilling any cleaner on the electronics :The ink passage will eventually give you problems …especially the dampers get clogged with dry ink…They all need to be replaced alongwith wipers.
Mark my words:
If you need this printer running smoothly without you destroying the major componenets such as the main board (about 3000 GBP approx)or the CR board assemblies.Replace these parts…
1.All the printheads
(you can keep the older ones first filled and then dipped in cleaning liquid "just the lower 2 MM of it"and the upper two damper receptors sealed off with some tubing ,cap etc for troubleshooting and temporary changeover when any new one dies out),
2.Capping station,
3.dampers,
4.wipers,
5.printhead Ribbon cables,
6. the fuses on main board
7.and all the O rings of tubing.
8.If possible replace all the ink pumps with the Roland ones too since Mutoh pumps are pathetic even when brand new:(If you have any further queries or require any kind of help,dont hesiate to email me.
Regards
Usman
quote Gerald Hochwimmer:We have a Mutoh RJ8000 only been used less than 4 hours from new, just taken out of storage after 3 years, we installed InkTec bulk pigment inks in CMYK Orange, Green & light C, M. the printer has 4 double heads, when we tried to get it going light Cyan was blocked, no amount of cleaning cleared it, all other colours printed OK, then Green & Orange stopped (both are on one head)Stripping the printer we found that 3 head fuses were blown on the main board, the distributor told us that this could be caused by a faulty head cable or even a faulty head, the fuses relate to the G/O head and the LC which are not working
At this stage we are still attempting to source the fuses, these are soldered on the main board apparently rated at 2 amps, they have the number “50” on top and “12” underneath.
I would be very interested were to get parts at a realistic price for the RJ8000 or Epson 10000 apparently they are the same heads.
I have also asked the Mutoh distributor for the RJ8000 board schematics but have been told that it’s impossible. 😥 [/c]
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Good morning,
I may be interested in the suppliers contact for Roland print heads.
Can anyone send it to me? -
mod-edit 1 please read board rules advertising not permitted
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is this some spam
and are your parts genuine roland parts
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mod-edit 2 please read board rules
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This is interesting because about 3 months ago i had to change my blackhead too. Even though numerous head soaks and cleans later, i still couldnt un-clog the beast! I had to bite the bullet and get the engineer in. He did me a deal on the new head and only charged £550 + labour. He said that it was an Epson head with a modified adapter for the SP300V. I watched him install it and whilst at first glance it looked more or less a straight forward operation (when you’ve done a few of course), i did think it was something that i could tackle in the future as i do like to get hands-on. You never know when these problems will arise and waiting for a fully booked up engineer is just down time for printing.
Then……i watched him do the real work lol. alignment and adjustment. Thats when i said to myself – errrrr leave it to the pro’s 🙂 at least that way if the head fails or bad prints; i can always call him back under the warranty. Money well spent i think. Normal consumables are easy enough to change but when it comes to the real nitty-gritty stuff, ill pay the man thank you 🙂
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Also, at the time of the head change i’d made a post at another printing forum because up until the head change i was trying my best to avoid the inevitable and was getting advice on various cleaning methods to see what could be done. In that thread i reported that the head was £550, well the response was shocking. There was a member there from Russia who said that he can get these Epson heads (with adapter for the sp300v) for $100 ! He’s changed his own and done all the nitty-gritty for $100. The thread got a little heated because we thought he was taking the mickey a bit but he did give us a link to a russian site for the heads, ive just checked the forum again and for some reason the links been removed, Ill ask him again for it. He also gets his dampers for $10 too! £5 ! The UK is such a rip off sometimes.
Has anyone else heard of prices like this? Another member from America was also quoted $640 for the sp300v Epson head, thats roughly £320 yeh?
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Dave.
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I’ve bought a JV3 (epson) head and parts from Kent at macmedia in the US, never had a problem with either the products or the service. I payed a little over $400 US for the head and it’s still printing as well as the day I installed it.
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I paid a tech to fit a new head on my 540 last year. $2500 for parts and labour later 😮
Some of the heads being sold for Rolands from china are no good for solvent inks, only water based. So, you have to be careful sourcing them now days.
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All Roland/Mimaki/Mutoh printheads are originally intended for Aqueous (water based) applications. The difference is that these printer manufacturers retrofit the Epson DX4 printheads with Solvent resistant head adapters and a gasket to prevent leaking.
In fact, if you have access to the Service manual for their authorized techs put out by Mimaki, there is a reference that when installing a new printhead that it may take some time to prime the printhead and to purge the water based carrying material shipped with the head.
That being said, we did purchase some printheads long ago from China that did not have the gaskets installed and the heads eventually leaked. It ended up getting into the printhead circuit board and destroyed the Main Board (expensive repair). We now are not chancing anything and source directly from Epson and do the retrofit ourselves.
It’s a little bit more difficult to change heads on Mimaki machines but for Rolands, a little bit easier. It’s just time consuming but well worth the money being saved for either printer. There are definitely shortcuts to installing printheads to save time and more importantly the amount of ink needed to prime new heads
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Hi, well I know about the solvent resist plate which is at the bottom, so where is this gasket you are referring to? I think I recall something between the circuit board and the other assembly when I have taken one apart, i cant fully recall
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The plastic headcap (what the dampers plug into) is fixed to the head with two small nuts and bolts. A little rubber gasket seals the ink channel connections between the head and the attached plastic headcap.
The Epson printhead I bought from Kent had the standard aqueous headcap factory fitted. The only difference between it and the solvent printheads in my JV3 is the type of plastic and rubber used for the headcap and the little rubber gasket, I bought solvent resistant versions separately.
As an experiment I dropped the factory fitted headcap into a bottle of solvent flushing fluid. After a short while it began to break apart and crumble until all that was left were the two little metal filter disks (same as in a damper). Never use non solvent resistant headcaps with solvent ink 🙄
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ah nice bill.. thanks for pointing that out.. i think i recall it now… so, lesson is to unscrew that bit from old head and transfer to epson head.
I may take a head apart and do some hi-res photos
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I would probably not use the old plastic headcap when fitting a new head. Some time ago I had problems with my previous ink brand. A bad batch of yellow ink was causing clogging of the damper filter after only a couple of metres printing. After tracking the problem down to the bad yellow ink, and replacing it with a fresh batch, the yellow head continued to show signs of ink starvation even after fitting a new damper. The continued starvation problem eventually turned out to be a clogged filter in the plastic headcap – a $20 part.
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