Problem cutting aluminium composite – help required please?

[Stephen Morriss]

I’ve never got on with that method and use a saw with a fine blade.
I use both a bench saw and a hand held saw depending on the type and size of the cut to be done.
You can also get mini circular saws that a re very handy, the problem is the mess so you really need another room for cutting.

Steve

[Hugh Potter]

same problem here, I always cut on the reverse side, then when almost through I fold and snap back from the face, leaves a nicer finish on the front. A large bench or wall mounted saw does a better job (though I don’t have my own!).

sometimes I run the a stanley blade along the edge at an angle to shave it, or even a small hand held wood plane works to a degree, depends what the finish needs to be like I guess.

[Ewan Chrystal]

Unfortunately don’t have the room for bench or wall saws. I’ll try cutting the back side, that might work

[Stephen Morriss]

Look for a small hand saw, I use a long rule with a deep edge clamped to the sheet and then run the base plate along the edge of the rule to get a straight long cut.

Steve

By hand saw I mean hand circular saw.

[Ian Johnston]

Buy yourself a small block plane,
I insist that all composite panels that go out through my door have a block plane run around their edge to Remove the sharpe edges,
Wouldn’t be without on, Used nearly as much here as a stanley Knife.
Also all small signs get a corner rounder used on them,
It add’s 50% instantly to the Look

[Kevin Flowers]

Hi
have a look at these power laminate saws ideal for cutting smaller bits of board, was going to get one before selling up as i had previously used an exact saw and got good results this just looks to make it quicker and easier

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p39803

Kev

[Simon Worrall]

I second Ian Johnstone’s comment. 😀
I cut ACM with a stanley knife, three or four scores then snap it over a table edge.
Then I plane the edge with a stanley block plane, at 45 degrees a couple of times each side, then at 90 degrees until the plastic is smooth and black. I do the same for the factory cut edges as well, it vastly improves them.
With practice you can hold the acm down with one hand and plane with the other, which speeds things up.
Try to do the entire length without stopping.

[Phill Fenton]

For sharp edges – get a deburring tool which quickly takes care of any raggedness (is that a real word?)

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[Gary Barker]

quote Ian Johnston:

Buy yourself a small block plane,
I insist that all composite panels that go out through my door have a block plane run around their edge to Remove the sharpe edges,
Wouldn’t be without on, Used nearly as much here as a stanley Knife.
Also all small signs get a corner rounder used on them,
It add’s 50% instantly to the Look

we use a block plane to, it give a good edge.

[Ewan Chrystal]

Thanks everyone, lots of good tips there.

[Colin Crabb]

We use an ‘Evolution Rage’ circular saw (slightly messy) cutting on reverse, gives a nice edge – and then as others, tidy with a hand plane as required.

[Reza Faezi]

Does nobody use a Steeltrak these days?

[Stuart Miller]

I score, bend and snap as others but then use a file.
I tried the deburring tool but could never get a clean edge with it. Think the block plane is a good idea so will try that.
I also file my edges after any flood coating which seems to give a good bond at the edges and stop any vinyl lifting later.

[Kevin Flowers]

A good quality steel ruler dragged in 1 motion works well to and also works on acrylic edges as well. Does take a little practice

Kev

[Chris Sharps]

Like Stuart I use a file after cutting, bending & snapping.

I would be interested in knowing what brand / size of block plane people use?

Thanks

Chris

[Adrian Hewson]

LOL we use one of these

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[Ewan Chrystal]

Would love something like that but have neither the space or the funds

[Ian Johnston]

quote Adrian Hewson:

LOL we use one of these

I use an Altendorf F45 😀 but still finish every panel with a block plane