Nightmare! Advice needed please

[George Elsmore]

you need some 2 part epoxy it goes off fairly quick

areldite or such like

G

[David Rogers]

You can get Araldite that sets in about 90 seconds (warm day) or about 5 to 10 if it’s cold. Put a blob under the locator & let it spread out for a firm footing. There isn’t really an ‘instant’ adhesive.

You could try supergluing it to get the immediate fix then put epoxy on & around the locator – not as good but faster.

If you are prepared to wait / tape it in position, Evostick ‘Serious Stuff’ is absolutely the best. It sticks to virtually anything and doesn’t dry rock hard – but to a very stiff rubber, agian, use the ‘blob’ method – It’s a bit like ‘Tiger Seal’ but a lot less noxious & it sets faster!

I’ve used it for neon standoffs, flush fit plaques and stud locators for letters. Works an absolute treat.

Avoid ‘No Nails’ or it’s clones – they are useless except for internal wood IMHO.

Dave

[Neil Churchman]

Lorraine,

Have you considered using Tensol glue on the Di-Bond, assuming your using an acrylic locator to fix the sign.

Haven’t tried this out because our tin of Tensol has ‘gone off’ but the surface of the Di-Bond may melt enough to create a fast air drying bond within a couple of hours.

If you have no Tensol glue, maybe Airfix model aeroplane glue will get you out of trouble?

good luck

[Dave Bruce]

I would use two part epoxy, from Bighead Fastenings, or Eurobond, apply as Dave says then heat with hot air gun, solid in 30 sec, I have done this before. I did have some locators come off a sign last year, before using two part epoxy and I applied 3M Double sided (white stuff) tape, they are still help today, but this was a light weight sign.

Dave

[Steve Morgan]

As Dave says, try some Penloc adhesive from Eurobond (01795 472888). It does seem to be very good

[Neil Churchman]

just a follow up on my previous input to this post.

I tested out securing a male acrylic locator using the tensol glue to DiBond,
and found that the two plastics DO NOT fuse together to make a suitable bond.

Also, I tried the ‘serious stuff’ glue by evo stik which was also suggested and found after 24 hours, where the glue dries around the edge of the locator, it was making a good fixing, but the locator did pull off to reveal undried glue in the middle.

I think I’ll be using the ‘serious stuff’ glue again because as posted by other users, it gives a solid but flexible bond, although I would allow more time
for the glue to fully cure before installing the signage under any load.

🙂

[Lorraine Clinch]

We eventually got around this by cleaning off the Sticks Like Sh!t & using a brand of superglue. I’m hoping it won’t give out, but not too sure. All the other locators are still fixed firm.
Thanks for all your replies and advice, I am definitely going to get some different adhesives in.

[John Harding]

Now this thread has come to an end can I ask a related question which you guys might be able to advise me on.

I have some built up aluminium letters with threaded brass locator’s but cannot get to the rear of the sign fascia to get a nut on, so I am planning to drill holes for the locator’s in the painted wooden fascia and glue the letters on.

I was thinking of using araldite two part epoxy resin or would something else better suit the job?

Thanks in advance John

Letters would be flush mounted not stand off

[Andy Gorman]

John, is it too late to remove the locators? Sometimes they are just screwed into the back of the letter. Then you could use VHB tape and avoid drilling the fascia. Is there even a surface on the back of the letters to glue?

[John Harding]

Hi Big G

yes the studs are unscrew-able but there are only a couple of small bridges at these points across the void to the rear of the letters, hence my thought to glue in place with studs intact.

John

[Neil Churchman]

If the studs protrude out far enough from the back of the letter, then I’d use clear silicon rubber, that way you have the flexibility to make adjustments later, should you need to tweak the position of the letters once you get a chance to stand back and admire your work 🙂

[John Harding]

Hi Neil

Do you mean clear silicon as you wood use around the bath? or something else?

John

[David Rowland]

You know something, why dont we all get rob to do a demo, perhaps he could test all brands of bond, I would be interested in how well different adhesives worked against different materials all tested together… what you think?

[Peter Normington]

Dave,
thats a good idea, when you multiply the types of materials and combinations, then factor in all the types off adhesives, it should keep Rob busy for the next decade or so!

At least he wont have time to draw stick men!
😉
Peter

[David Rowland]

its more of a subtle hint to rob to get the demos moving here! 😉

[Fran Hollywood]

A demo would be useful, but I’m sure Rob’s up to his tonsil’s in work and he needs to spend more time on his stick-men creations.

Would it not be an idea to get a supplier to "promote" a selection of adhesives and let them do the testing. I’m sure the manufacturers could give the supplier materials foc.

[Neil Churchman]

quote John Harding:

Hi Neil

Do you mean clear silicon as you wood use around the bath? or something else?

John

John,

I’d use standard exterior grade silicon rubber, as you say the type you would use to seal around a bath or exterior door frames.

The silicon takes a while to go off but it allows easier removal for corrections or maintenance of the letters (assuming you have a customer that sees the value of sign maintenance). You could use one the the ‘no nails’ type adhesives which are solvent based and will dry quicker but a lot harder to remove letters at a later date for painting wall, fascia….etc.

Just a final word, what ever you decide to use, blow the dust out of the holes before use apply glue and fix in the studs, otherwise you just get a stud coated in glue and dust that pulls out really easy like the one a came across this morning. 😉

[John Harding]

Thanks guys

Job done today, I’m gonna try and post pics later

I had some clear silicon used designed for roofing but which I used recently on some acrylics so I used that, early days but it seems to work and as said allows for removal if the sign needs attention

John