Material Advice please

[Dave Harrison]

3mm composite board such as dibond etc, or powder coated aluminum panel and PVC stock frame for the decorative beading. Fix the panel with either UHB or face fix around the edge with counter sunk screws which will be hidden under the frame.

[Martin Pearson]

Wot Dave said :lol1:

[Lynn Normington]

I was going to suggest that as well, and you may be able to get the colour you want as well

Lynn

[Robert Lambie]

i bought 3 sheets of the 3mm cream from europoint last week. comes in 3mx1.5m or 8’x4′ i did a hair dressers with it, still to take some pictures, will post soon.

personally ide use a oval/bull nosed faced panatrim and slide in the panels after removing his frame work. but what dave says would also work and probably easier for you.

[Warren Beard]

Hi All

Thanks for the replies, I think I might have been a bit unclear with my explanation.

The existing wooden frame is not being removed and I have to fit something inside this existing frame.

Would Dibond be suitable to fix flat sheets with screws and cover screws with caps of some sort to hide screw heads? or can I use VHB tape or face fix direct on to the wall?

Can I get Dibond in cream or do you mean powder coated in cream?

Thanks guys.

Warren

[Peter Normington]

Warren, just had a closer look at your picture, amazing how they got the cars into the shop!!

Anyway dibond comes in cream so no problems there.
vhb could be used, providing the original sudstrata is sound and clean, are you going to remove the existing panel, and what is it made of, and what is behind it?

Peter

[Warren Beard]

Hi Peter

There’s a large back door :lol1:

I’m not sure what is underneath and the current surface looks like cardboard 😮 It is all cracked and peeling away.

I did not have too much time to have a look at it and will be going back tomorrow to do a proper inspection. The client did say it was wood and he was going to repaint it so it could be wood underneath whatever stuff is on the face.

I think I should just screw it on, what is the best way to conceal screws on a cream surface ? 😕

Thanks

Warren

[Martin Pearson]

As Peter says VHB will be fine as long as the existing facia is dry, clean and in sound condition. If you were to use VHB you could always back up with a small screw in each corner, I would countersink so heads were flush and just cover with cream vinyl.
Why can’t you replace the existing framing? It looks a bit tatty from what I can see. Replacing the framing wouldn’t add that much to the price of the job but would make all the difference to the finished job.

[Warren Beard]

Hi Martin

I will be meeting up with the client soon and I can suggest this as I agree with you about the finished look.

I just need to cover all the bases if he wants it to stay.

I also wanted to avoid using cream vinyl as I don’t have any and didn’t really want to order some for a few small circles 😕 but if I must I must 😉

cheers

Warren

[Robert Lambie]

sorry guys, but i need to go against the grain here. i would NOT use VHB on wood. certain NEW prepped, varnish boards/wood will grip the tape but for how long? wood swells, contracts etc over time, i doubt the VHB will have a good enough long term bite on this. even if it did, as the wood ages/deteriorates the tape will loss grip and the panel will land on someones head.

i think counter sunk screws would be best if a framing is out of the question. i would probably also put a few small blobs of no-nails here and there to give an added grip. before applying the no-nails ide sands and clean the areas you will blob.
(one thing i am unsure of) nonails and other strong adhesives sometimes create a bad reaction in composite board like dibond. the adhesive sometimes causes an inward large dimple on the materials surface. you cannot see this straight on… but at and angle when the sun is shining you can see it pretty clear. doesnt look good.
i doubt the likes of silicon or no-nails will have this effect but better do a tester over 24 hours to be sure. in the past i have done it using two part adhesives and ruined some sign panels and also flat cut letter.

you can obviously get colour matched screw caps, but you can also get plastic tipped/coloured screws. ashby does them… the down side is your screw bit needs to be small or it threads the head of the screw. also, the cap on the top is not the most discreet. i suggest these because i hate screw caps from b&p they always fall off or dont snap shut tight and hang open. even then, i guess they are probably more noticeable than the ashby ones.

[Martin Pearson]

Robert, you have far more experience than me so maybe VHB isn’t the best way but I would have thought it would have been OK as the facia is painted and not bare wood as long as the paint is sound as I said.
As for the B&Q screw caps I never ever use them, I personally think they are the worst looking things in the world, if I have to use any form of screw cap I use a type that has a plastic collar that the screw fits through and the other part which is separate is a push fit over the screw. They are much flatter and a harder plastic than the hinged type. I have also painted them with acrylic paints on a few occasions and the paint actually stays on them :lol1:

[Ian Bingham]

Opps sorry
misread thread
thought it said marital advise
sorry

[Martin Pearson]

So would that mean that you are an expert on the subject Ian or do you just like a bit of gossip :lol1: :lol1:

[Warren Beard]

Hi

Would I need to make the holes oversized for the screw to allow for movement?

cheers

Warren

[Martin Pearson]

No warren not with Di-bond, any expansion or contraction of the board is so minimal that there is no need.

[Peter Normington]

Ok assuming the frame is going to be kept, and the substrata is wood, and we dont want unsightly fixings,

Just hold the dibond in place with a small timber or plastic bead, 10mm or so, panel pinned and glued to the original frame, job sorted…

Peter

[Warren Beard]

Thanks all

I think that should sort it if he does want to keep the wooden frame.

If not I think I will use Dave’s plan

much appreciated

cheers

Warren

[Martin Pearson]

Peter, I thought about doing that but what put me off suggesting it was that it already looks like a very narrow facia and fitting another bead will reduce it further.

[Peter Normington]

Ok Martin,
Warren has got it sorted, but just another suggeston for reference.

the "bead" could be a bead of silicone (high grade non fade, and clear, as used for fish tanks, locate the panel, and "glue" into place around the outer edge

Peter

[Martin Pearson]

Oh, I don’t think it is a bad idea Peter and I have fitted panels like that myself plus the more options Warren has to think about the better, if it were quite small it might actually look like part of the original frame.

[Warren Beard]

quote Dave Harrison:

3mm composite board such as dibond etc, or powder coated aluminum panel and PVC stock frame for the decorative beading. Fix the panel with either UHB or face fix around the edge with counter sunk screws which will be hidden under the frame.

Can somebody please give me some more information and contacts for the stock frame mentioned above. I think I have convinced the guy to remove the old wooden frame.

The easier the better please.

Thanks

Warren

[Peter Normington]

Jag sign supplies do plastic frame,

on supplierd page I think

Peter