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is there a good method for attaching dibond to posts?
Hi peoples, one thing that has me a bit stumped. Is there a way of attaching a 3mm aluminium composite sign to a post or stake without having to drill through the front of the signs?
I have recently made some entrance signs for a client which where 1000mm wide and supported by 2 x 2inch square metal posts which where concreted in to the ground.
The only way I could seem to manage this was by drilling 4 holes through the front of the signs, using pot rivets and then painting the rivets the same colour as the background.
Not ideal but it worked ok. I would have preferred to use tray signs and attach through the sides, but this was out of the clients budget. The client is happy but I’m not entirely.
Am I being too finicky or is this standard? If not can anyone recommend a more suitable method to fix the substrate to the posts? iether quare or round posts please?
Cheers in advance
BigMo
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12 Replies
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Fix channels to the back with UHB and then use some Ashby square or round clips.
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quote Peter Dee:Fix channels to the back with UHB and then use some Ashby square or round clips.Sure, thanks for that just one question, what’s UHB?
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It’s a very strong double sided tape Mo, quite pricey also known as vhb tape.
Steve
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Ta steve, hmm not sue I like the sound of that, is it quite durable?
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Never used it Mo so can’t say from experience but i believe it is, having said that some people use it together with rivets as a belt & braces approach on outdoor signs.
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Yeah it will be strong enough
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OtrDvDvF5I
stronger than rivets aparentley
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As has been said… VHB is an easy solution.
There are various alternatives to the Originator "3M VHB" but getting the correct one from a reputable firm is sometimes difficult because everyone tells you theirs is up to the job.
VHB also comes in different grades. The white 3M VHB [sorry i forget the codes etc] is the best of the bunch and costly. The grey is more or less a bit of an all-rounder and a fair bit cheaper. we use the grey coupled by rivets because rivets on their own can be torn through the face of composite depending on the size of sign and how exposed it is to wind it is. This is a self preference of mine due to tried and tested experience of the above happening. The idea is 4 inch strip of grey vhb behind each rivet as it helps spread the load.
As mentioned, call and speak with the supplier of the tape.
Tell them your using a painted surface substrate and joining mill finished (if it is) sign channel. They will give you exactly the tape intended for the job in hand.Applying it MUST be done by the book! Following the procedure regimentally.
A tip is to NOT apply in one full length but in sections of say a foot – 2 foot at a time. OR… apply in one go and cut it every 12 inches or so with a Stanley knife. This helps prevent any continuous tearing action. It also helps apply it easier.
This all sounds long winded Mo, its not, it’s actually pretty quick.
But there IS a strict method of application and allot of different tapes for certain applications. So best getting it right.all in all, VHB tape is more than capable of holding your sign up.
Give Indasol a call, I am sure they will keep you right on anything you need to ask.
http://www.indasol.co.uksorry I cannot go into more detail on the tapes, but ive been buying the same two tapes for years and its just a case of me saying “repeat the order”. So im a tad rusty on whats ideal for what these days on VHB.
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Thanks guys, you have answered the question and given me ideas for a better finished product too. So I am doing the right thing just need to add to it’s strength.
Very helpful
Cheers guys
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we have tried them all, with failures in them except this
http://www.24autoparts.co.uk/u-pol-tige … 14426.html
it’s the same adhesive that’s used to glue the panels onto your car, totally flexible and when glued to a surface that has been sanded with a coarse 180 git paper and degreased it will not be broken without putting the panel in a mess. plus it’s a lot cheaper. and doesn’t damage THe ACM panel
The big problem with VHB in most sign applications is getting an even bond onto both surfaces. Yes you can roll the tape onto the panel and get a good seal, but most signshops dont have a laminator or press strong enough to properly get the rails etc, pressed on without trapped air etc.
If you want to see what i mean take a piece of VHB and put it onto a piece of 10mm ( because it’s ridged) clear acrylic. you can easily stick the tape to it and clearly see a good bond . but try and stick a piece to the other side now, and you’ll find you’ll get a lot of trapped air on the bond, giving a lot weaker bond.
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I’m interested in buying this VHB tape but found several references, which one do you recommend?
I’ve seen 5386, 5952, 4910, 4611…
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Fabrice, as Robert has already said which tape you use depends on the application, what are you looking to bond with it ??
Other thing as Robert has also mentioned is some tapes are not as good as others and this is quite often reflected in the price. If you think you are getting a really good deal because you have found a tape at a much cheaper price then it probably isn’t a true VHB tape.
4910 I know is a 3m code for VHB tape, can’t remember which one sorry, don’t know about the others.
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I’m only looking for a general purpose double sided tape with high bond.
I have no precise application in mind but I would like to have it with me whenever I need it. 😀
I bought an Oracal tape adviced by a supplier, but found it not bonding enough in several applications (e.g: I tried to fix a multiplug under my workbench with this tape without success).
All references I’ve found are from 3M, but can’t figure out which applies for what application.
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