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Hexis vehicle wrap vinyl failing, advice please?
Hi Everyone i wrapped a mk4 golf 2 weeks ago in hexis wrap vinyl Metallic white with air release, i have wrapped with other vinyls with no issues, the car was washed, dried and cleaned with iso cleaner etc, we only used heat enoungh to shape the vinyl and post heated every bend, my problem is it is lifting in places already.. has anyone else had this issue?
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21 Replies
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hi john
where is it failing mate?
can you post any pictures of the failed areas? -
ill need to get some rob, it has popped around the bump strip on the passenger side as its ia bugger to take off, around the corner of the bumpers down low and the mirrors 🙁
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are the mirrors and the bump strips both colour coded gloss or are they matt black/grey?
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not saying they are mate, but if the bump strip and mirrors are matt black plastic on this vehicle then that will be the reason the wrap is failing in these areas. vinyl will adhere to these type of plastic areas of vehicles but WILL slowly fail over type as the vinyl creeps back and comes away, particularly where its been stretched. hope this helps.
if they are not matt black please post some close up pictures for us to have a look and allow us to try determine whats went wrong.
something else to consider is that air escape type adhesive is not warranted for deep recessed areas such as those side strips and may well be the reason for failure at least in that area.
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Yes we have had similar issues with the Hexis wrap. They easily have the best range of finishes but I think they need to make the adhesive stronger on it and stop trying to make a vinyl that they can sell to the car valeters and window tinters.
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I know what you mean rob, the car is fully colour coded, i know nothing sticks to the standard plastics but this is all factory paint, ill get pics tonite i hope but i have broken my phone at the mo and using one that fred flintsone had before me 🙁
it is a lovely vinyl to work with but it was by no means cheap, i wrapped a jeep with kpmf white at a 1/4 of the price and it stuck like poo to a blanket
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worries about vinyl is something I want to prevent as much as I can, there are lots of others things to take care of… I am willing to pay a bit more without concerns about material…
Hexis has very attractive wrapvinyls but for me they still have to proof themselves.
Tim
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quote John McNickle:I know what you mean rob, the car is fully colour coded, i know nothing sticks to the standard plastics but this is all factory paint, ill get pics tonite i hope but i have broken my phone at the mo and using one that fred flintsone had before me 🙁it is a lovely vinyl to work with but it was by no means cheap, i wrapped a jeep with kpmf white at a 1/4 of the price and it stuck like poo to a blanket
Not really a fair comparison though John is it. If KPMF did a metallic white it would be more expensive than their ordinary white. although it probably would still be a bit cheaper than Hexis.
You are right about one thing though it does stick well, that’s one of the reasons some people don’t like it because of its high initial grab. -
I don’t see how ANY part of that vehicle could be considered a deep recess.
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Door handles, side bump strips, wing mirrors etc…
you are correct, they dont "look" deep but require maximum stretching. its not so much BIG, Deep recesses but how the vinyl is "conformed into" tight corners like the handle and the bump strip. difficult to explain without pictures etc to aid what i am trying to say.
the mirror is complete opposite from the handles and strip but again its down to how the vinyl is conformed, was it over stretched in areas that require max adhesion? if it was then the adhesive on the rear will be thin in places that will WANT TO SHRINK BACK, and there for come away.
in the mirrors instance you can also throw in was the rear of the vinyl fingered allot while pulling into place. if yes then ALLOT of oil from your skin will reduce adhesion significantly. lots of things come into play that we cant give views on without seeing how it was applied first hand.all the above said, now you have to take into account that its an air escape adhesive system which maybe already lacking adhesive to allow for the air channels. this is why LOTS of different brands of air escape adhesive wrap vinyls are considered "wraps for cars" because there is allot less of these types of areas, but do still exist as this shows. its how you deal with them that comes into play.
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I haven’t used Hexis vinyl before, but done quite a few wraps, so i’ll maybe bight my tongue a bit, but I’m sorry Rob, your sounding like a manufacturer protecting their ‘warranty’. I can’t see any areas that would go beyond the 25-30% ratio that most claim.
Having said that, installer error is gonna be the final outcome in any dispute here.
I may be wrong, but I doubt it unfortunately.On the bright side, it may be your supplier that comes to the party and gives you a discount on replacement material.
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sorry im only back into this discussion, i had to cut down the bump strips to releave the tension on it but its been shrinking a good bit and there was no over the top heating or bending involved 🙁 i had pics but this useless phone wont let me put them up on here, ill sort it over the weekend..
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Did you do the bump strips separately or with the same piece of vinyl you were doing the bumpers/doors with? I would have done them separately.
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quote John McNickle:sorry im only back into this discussion, i had to cut down the bump strips to releave the tension on it but its been shrinking a good bit and there was no over the top heating or bending involved 🙁 i had pics but this useless phone wont let me put them up on here, ill sort it over the weekend..
Yeah it’s normally safer to relief cut those areas straight away, get the vinyl down good, then heat the crap out of it, as they are notorious for holding moisture and/or dirt.
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quote Chris Hansen:I haven’t used Hexis vinyl before, but done quite a few wraps, so i’ll maybe bight my tongue a bit, but I’m sorry Rob, your sounding like a manufacturer protecting their ‘warranty’. I can’t see any areas that would go beyond the 25-30% ratio that most claim.
no need to apologise mate, your more than welcome to your opinion Chris.
regardless, what you are over looking here chris is that this is an air release system and is NOT warrantied for sharp recesses. as said before, only 3M & Avery warrant this type of adhesive system.
It is not about me sounding like a supplier mate, its me giving 22 years+ experience of vinyl installation advice.also, ask anyone that has been on the UKSB wrap training course and they will tell you that we take allot of time to explain the ways to conform vinyl into such a recess.
"how it is conformed" into those recessed areas will determine if it will pull out or not. there are several ways to do a sharp recess, if no proper training given, the majority do it wrong.
also, it has now been established that the moulding had not been slit to relieve tension. but not straight away as you advise, you need to allow the vinyl to cool right down before cutting.
you have also said you would "heat the crap out of it" i really am not trying to sound patronising mate, but that comment should have been that you use a heat gun to post heat the vinyl to the manufacturers recommended curing temp using a laser thermometer.
as i say, i am only trying to give advice here chris, but just because what i say is not the practice of others, doesnt make me wrong mate.
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lol, yeah I know Rob, it was just the company fallback of ‘deep recess’ that got my goat(I’d had a couple o beers 😛 )
I apologize for my rant. -
quote Chris Hansen:lol, yeah I know Rob, it was just the company fallback of ‘deep recess’ that got my goat(I’d had a couple o beers 😛 )
I apologize for my rant.no worries Chris, having a few now myself mate. 😀
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On mirrors I see alot of people heating and pull the vinyl around. I was guilty of this when I first started. The correct procedure is to heat the vinyl to relax it get the fingers out as Justin Pate calls them and then let it cool and squeege the vinyl down in small increments. Keep repeating.
Another tip once you have the vinyl right around the vinyl lift it back about 10mm and heat and relax the flim them reapply it with the squeegee. The less stretch and tension we put into the films the less chances of failure. It takes abit longer but once you get the hang of it the install is bomb proof.
I also tend to do mirros in a couple of pieces as well which helps reduce stretch and knifeless tape makes this easier to do.
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sorry i wrote the last bit wrong, i did slit the vinyl in recess before it left the shop but not when it was warm from post heating 🙁
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Hi John,
can you tell me what temperature you post heated the film to?
How did you post heat the vinyl?
What cleaners did you use prior to application?These three questions are of high importance when it comes to a successful vehicle wrap.
Cheers
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I had a similar problem on the same car using the same range of vinyl (but the pearl white). Recesses dont look deep but the vinyl really struggled to adhere to it. Very nervous about using that range of vinyl now and since only stuck to 3M 1080 (although range is very limited at the moment 🙁 ).
Chris
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