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Help & advice needed on GRP fibreglass signs please?
Posted by James Summerville on 9 November 2011 at 14:30HI ALL
I HAVE BEEN ASKED TO PRODUCE SOME GRP FIBREGLASS SIGNS WHICH ARE NOT A PROBLEM BUT I NEED TO ENCAPSULATE THE GRAPHICS INSIDE SO THEY ALSO BECOME VANDAL RESISTANT FOR UP TO 10 YR . CAN ANY RECOMMEND WHAT IS THE EASIEST PROCESS I MIGHT NEED TO GO THROUGH TO ACHIEVE THIS & IS THEIR A PARTICULAR PRODUCT THAT NEEDS TO BE USED ON THE FINAL FINISH
MANY THANKS (-)Stephen Morriss replied 14 years, 1 month ago 7 Members · 9 Replies -
9 Replies
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Can’t help with your question, sorry, but you will get more help if you introduce yourself and your business in the Say Hello forum first.
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I used to do this at a previous employer, grp is messy smelly work and the materials are not cheap. There is a member on here who does it but can’t remember the name. i would sub it out as it’s likely to be an expensive learning curve.
Steve
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Sounds like your used to making the GRP bit but not sure how to get the lettering inside the gel coat.
Could you make the sign then fit the lettering/graphics and then pour some clear gel coat on top? Guess you’d have to key the surface of the main sign first but then the gel coat should get you the gloss back.
I’ve never done this so don’t assume I have 🙂
Steve
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Thank you every one for the posts i will continue to try and master this & continue to find more info as the main fibre glassing of the signs is the easy bit for us but i’m not so sure that gelcoating over an already gelcoated surface even if keyed up would give me long term i need & the amount of signs needed would be expensive to set correct if imperfect
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f you can manufacture the fibreglass signs without a problem I don’t see why you think a clear resin over the top of the graphics would cause a problem. I am guessing the graphics will be cast vinyl if they are looking for 10 years durability.
I am also sure there must be other options available that will be at least as vandal resistant, fibreglass is not the most vandal resistant material available and production costs can be higher than other methods so not sure why they are wanting that to start with.
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The way we used to do them was in a cold press, not sure you could get the same results hand laying. The surface on ours was clear resin and tissue, the prints we used were all on paper as this allows resin to absorb through paper fibres and become part of the board not just sandwiched. Resins can make some inks run.
Steve
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You could try spraying over the vinyl with 2 pack clear as used in the auto body industry.
Do this quite often with bike fairings.Steve
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