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Heavy duty fixing onto cladding?
I’ve got to fix a fairly hefty lightbox onto steel cladding (13’4″ x 4′) and I’m looking for suggestions for a decent fixing. I’d like to use something a bit more like a bolt than a screw, just to give a bit more strength.
Any suggestions? I remember someone linking to a self drilling fixing once, but now I can’t find it.
Ta
G
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17 Replies
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use wood techs mate, same as tech screws/bolts but much stronger fixing. needs pilot hole drilled first though. 5mm hole then right in with wood tech. you have have seen the 20ft by 10ft flexface sign i did a few months back. this was very heavy and the techs done the job perfect. 😉
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Big G
I think you are talking about tech screws,screwfix do them
they should do the jobDave
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Are these the ones Rob?
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are these the ones you mean dave?
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whoops
havnt got the hang of adding links
but the code no is d11195
Dave -
They should do the job Andy.
I put a fairly weighty sign up with them a couple of months ago. Eighty two foot long by threee foot high.
The secret, as always, is whatever you use, put plenty of them in!! 😀
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the ones i use are about 3 inches long, much beefier than the likes of normal metal peircing tech screws. the picture you have linked to andy “looks” like the right ones mate.
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Yes Andy they are the ones us Northerners have been using for years.
Time you soft southerners caught up & stopped using pop rivets. :lol1:
L J -
Andy, you need to use longer fixings like Rob says if it’s going to be heavy because you want to fix into the purlins rather than just the thin cladding. You need to have the longer ones to make sure they reach from the “peak” to the “trough” of the corrugations and still have enough to go into the steelwork if that makes sense ?
Nigel
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Pop rivets are as good and probably better than the self drill tap screws. They have a larger area of contact with the cladding. Its fine using long screws if the sign lines up with the internal steel, Rareley does though.
Peter
Just edited to point out that andy’s link is for fixing to timber, so would be no good on a steel frame building.
This is the link for the metal screws But on cladding, rivets are going to do a better job, if you cannot line up to the internal framework. -
Thanks for that you lot. Nigel, I hadn’t thought of that – fixing on the troughs by using longer screws. Fortunately the cladding runs horizontally, so at least I’ll be able to put plenty of fixings in as the internal struts in the box will cross the cladding peaks at 90degs.
If you get my drift.
Peter, I’ve decided on the self drilling for steel/purlin type.
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Thats fine andy, they will do the job, but just a caution.
If the sign frame is thicker, (I’m sure it is) than the cladding, you will need to pre drill the sign. The reason is that the thicker material will cause a greater resistance to the screw, and you then cannot be certain of a positive fix to the cladding. If I am a little vague on what I am saying, say so and I will do a drawing to explain.
Peter -
That’s OK Peter, I always drill clearance holes in frames and boxes, otherwise you run the risk of the screw tapping through the box and then just spinning against the cladding and pushing the box away from the wall. I’m sure you know what I mean.
It’s amazing innit? I’ve been doing this since 1986 and this is the first time I’ve had to fix a lightbox to cladding, and I’ve fitted a LOT of signs. You learn something new every day!
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So yer not as daft as the northerners think 😀
Peter -
i agree with Nigel in various ways, I actually bought 8inch techs to tap into the frame. “the cladding had a cavity”
however, the wood techs do not need it. they hold very strong on there own. ide go with these any day over the likes of rivets, (sorry peter) but techs are much faster and are better on the whole.see a link, this sign was heavy, each section I mean. the whole thing ways god knows what… only wood techs holding it up. see cladding, we could only catch the high parts at about 2inch wide max.
screw through the box frame/straps into the cladding. -
quote L.J.:Yes Andy they are the ones us Northerners have been using for years.
Time you soft southerners caught up & stopped using pop rivets. :lol1:
L JI was only commenting on what LJ said.
Screws are quicker every time, and of course far easier to remove if needed But I stand by what I said, using the correct rivet into thin cladding is stronger than a screwfix 😀
Peter -
I was only taking the **ss with Andy, i use both methods depending on how heavy the light boxes are.
L J
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