Good preparation of plywood

[Jill Marie Welsh]

Hi Angelique, nice to see you around.
😀
When I do a plywood sign (which used to be all I did at one time) I buy exterior grade plywood from a nearby lumberyard, not a big box store. I hand-pick it to make sure it’s not warped or full of "footballs".
I cut it to size, sand the edges, blow off the dust with an air gun.
Then I seal the edges with two coats of Titebond 2 wood glue.
Then I prime with KILZ brand primer (it’s water based)
Then sand, blow off, wipe off, then I use 1-Shot or Ronan lettering enamel.
I dump a puddle of it in the middle of the sign and roll it out with a foam roller.
The last pass I hold the roller with my other hand and sort of just drag it across the panel, to break any bubbles.
It rarely needs another coat.
I use the roller to do the edges of the sign too.
You can get a glass like finish this way, which when dry is perfect for applying vinyl lettering or hand painting.
Love….Jill

[Angelique Muller]

quote Jillbeans:

Hi Angelique, nice to see you around.
😀
When I do a plywood sign (which used to be all I did at one time) I buy exterior grade plywood from a nearby lumberyard, not a big box store. I hand-pick it to make sure it’s not warped or full of “footballs”.
I cut it to size, sand the edges, blow off the dust with an air gun.
Then I seal the edges with two coats of Titebond 2 wood glue.
Then I prime with KILZ brand primer (it’s water based)
Then sand, blow off, wipe off, then I use 1-Shot or Ronan lettering enamel.
I dump a puddle of it in the middle of the sign and roll it out with a foam roller.
The last pass I hold the roller with my other hand and sort of just drag it across the panel, to break any bubbles.
It rarely needs another coat.
I use the roller to do the edges of the sign too.

Love….Jill

Hih Jill

Thanks for your reply.
I have used high grade WPB and it is a very good surface.
The product you talk about are brand names that I have not heard of over here, so can you expand on what they are exactly? Is the woodglue a PVA? And the 1-shot paint; is that an enamel paint or just a oil-based gloss?

Thanks

Angelique

[Harry Cleary]

Are the edges exposed Angelique? That is the problem area with ply, I would use Marine ply for long term outdoor prestige work and WPB for lesser stuff and I would always try to frame it in some way.
Make sure to radius all the edges slightly as the paint skin is prone to crack along sharp edges as it expands and contracts.
You will be fine with Alu primer 2 u/cs and 2 topcoats….make sure to key the surface between the two topcoats.
And advise the owner to have it varnished at 2/3 year intervals if he wants it to last.

[Angelique Muller]

quote Harry Cleary:

Are the edges exposed Angelique? That is the problem area with ply, I would use Marine ply for long term outdoor prestige work and WPB for lesser stuff and I would always try to frame it in some way.
Make sure to radius all the edges slightly as the paint skin is prone to crack along sharp edges as it expands and contracts.
You will be fine with Alu primer 2 u/cs and 2 topcoats….make sure to key the surface between the two topcoats.
And advise the owner to have it varnished at 2/3 year intervals if he wants it to last.

Thanks Harry,
It seems really hard to get marine ply: the timber yard here does not stock it and has to order it in especially. They always tell me that unless the ply is submerged in water WPB is fine……
I will take on board your advice of the radius to the edges and then hope for the best. The ply is going into a metal frame but the edges will be exposed to the elements….

[Harry Cleary]

There should be plenty of boatbuilders down your way Angelique, they might sell you their offcuts.
WPB is alright but it has to be maintained.

[Alan Drury]

We used to do alot of pub signs at one time and we used ½"Birch faced ply with a frame and rebated capping. This made a good solid sign. The paint regime was 1 primer – 1 undercoat – 1 undercoat/gloss mix – 1 full gloss, rubbing down between coats. The finish was excellent and durability as good as you can expect from plywood.
Alan D

[Jill Marie Welsh]

Titebond2 spex:
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP … ?prodcat=1
KILZ info:
http://www.masterchem.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=28

And Harry is spot-on about knocking over any sharp edges with a sanding block.

[Alan Drury]

We always used WBP, dead right about smoothing the edges.
Alan D

[Angelique Muller]

Thanks for all the advice!