gerber edge fx

[David Rogers]

Print on CLEAR in REVERSE and also print on WHITE normally. Put the WHITE OVER the CLEAR…job done.

Nothing to do with software or printer type…just getting two sheets lined up perfectly.

You could of course, having a thermal printer print on CLEAR in REVERSE, put it through again to lay down a couple of layers of white & then your top print…no guarantees that the white will be 1. solid enough or 2. take another couple of layers of foil.

Dave

[Nairda]

you make it sound so easy lol, i tried this but im still not getting results, i recently updated the software which has a layer manager but im not sure how to use it, if anyone could send me an example file of a double sided sticker then i can break apart in the program it would be greatly appreciated
many thnx, nairda

[Nick Minall]

Print what you need in reverse first then flood print white then print normal.

but really need to know what the print looks like.

[Neil Davey]

You need to print silver after your reverse print before printing the remainder as this will block out your reverse print.

[Peter Normington]

depending on the print, and number of colours you could be looking at up to ten passes to create double sided stickers. its not usually economical. but depends on what the design is, and how much the client is prepared to pay, you will need at least two white layers between for total block.

Peter

I did say that…

[Nairda]

thanks for your help guys, ive created one, but the only problem im having now it the block out, the sticker is green with white text. ive done the reverse print on clear then a layer of white, then a layer of grey and then white and then the green again, but when put up to the light u can see the reverse text, ive tried using a black block out but it means i have to double hit both layers of white and also double hit the black to create a complete block out, obviously this isnt very economical, if any1 knows what the best colour to use to block the reverse out is without having to double hit each foil it would be a great help, Many thnx

[Martin Armitage]

I have used both silver and gold foils to create a block out layer on double sided stickers. If you go down the route of using clear vinyl and backing up with white, then
reverse print onto clear overprint white overprint silver or add a layer of silver vinyl, then print onto white vinyl and overlay onto clear vinyl.
If you go down the route of just using print then it is a matter of getting your layers and overprints right, and if your using one colour more than once rename it as something else, but just remember to put the right colour in when the edge asks for it.
My version of Omega is a few years old now so there is probably a better way of doing it now!
Mart. :

[Peter Normington]

Just my opinion, but signlab is far better than omega for producing double sided decals, using the edge. But its still an expensive process, and seldom warrants the effort.

I’m led believe it is far more cost effective using an inkjet and grey backed digital vinyl, I dont remember the exact process, but it has been described on the boards before,

Peter

[Colin Crow]

Duracoat now produce a super opacity white for this purpose. I haven’t used it yet but it comes highly recommended. They are available from Hexis amongst others.

Colin

[Bob Gilliland]

Great feedback above. I’m posting the following as sometimes “pictures” help paint a easier picture. Imagine that, images help the concept. One would think I sell signs! All of this was originally posted over at another forum site. I’m not sure if the links provide below will allow you to view the threads or not as that site is somewhat protected and requires membership.

The first repost here, one of three by the way, is regarding my response to a similar question asked back in April of 2005. The second is the more visual was of representing a lot of what was presented further above. Third repost is just showing some double sided LexEdge business cards that were produced.

**************

This would be a lot easier to show and explain in person than doing it via the written word. So here is my attempt at a visual of the process with minimal wording

This represents a double-sided decal I would like to produce on Clear vinyl

This represents how I’m going to set the job up in the software. I need to “lie” about the colors I want to use. (Hope it makes sense later why this is done.) I want “layer” 1 to be the base, layer 2 on top of 1, layer 3 on top of 2, etc.. You should be familiar with “To Front” command for this. Some of these layers need set to “Overprint” as well. This is also where I’m going to put in “fake” colors for substitution at a later time.

Layer 1 Aqua
Layer 2 Purple
Layer 3 Black
Layer 4 White
Layer 5 Brown (will print with Black)
Layer 6 Lemon Yellow (will print with White)
Layer 7 Raspberry (will print with Aqua)
Layer 8 Kelly Green (will print with Purple)
Layer 9 Lime Green (will print with Black)

Next image shows how the layers are building upon themselves

Last image is showing what the edge will prompt you for, but what color to put in instead.

Few Side Notes: Color shifting happened when saving for web images. This “decal” was created with choke/spread to avoid hairline registration problems. For that reason, I like to print from lightest color to darkest color where possible. There is more than one way to accomplish these types of projects, this is just one illustration and does not reflect the fastest or most economical way for production. (Although I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night!!)

Someone then asked the question about print quality when substituting foils, this was my response…

Stefan,

As a general guideline, since the work is probably being done on a clear vinyl, choosing a foil color that has the same print speed as the one you actually want to use for the given vinyl family, should result in negligible, if any, output quality concerns. A chart of print speeds is included on the program media or on the material updater disk. This isn’t an “absolute”, but a usable guideline

I will also add, new here with this post in early 2008, that an FX or Edge2 will be more sensitive to substitutions then any of the three Edge “Classic” models, particularly when printing at speeds above 20ipm.

**************

This was from a separate post regarding double sided printing….

[color=darkred]Thanks Doug!

Mike,

As indicated already, yes it is possible. Doug has posted one of his double sided creations in the portfolio area for our viewing pleasure (or perhaps it’s in Letteville, not 100% about that). Clear vinyl would probably be the preferred material in this case. However, it’s not the only material open to this kind of production. I recently had the pleasure of hosting an Omega seminar for Standard (Sign Supply) out of St Louis. I spent some time on performing double sided printing. In fact, I had some LexEdge business card samples I was handing out that were “double sided”.

Here is a quick scan of some leftovers dumped on the scanner bed:

I have an older post that deals with this issue, but am currently working on a new version that actually uses the above card as the basis. (I actually use Spectratone like output without using Spectratone in order to save on foil consumption, so it’s a multi discipline lesson) I have started to work smarter and not harder in this area by printing these as two jobs instead of one (the method used on the old step by step). This can be done with either an Edge or Edge2. Edge2 devices (and some later Edge models) have a built in fail safe with the “home” key (if used). Makes for a much nicer design process with virtually NO headaches or hair pulling compared to the old way outlined in that other post.

I have been playing with using Metallic Silver, Super Opaque White, and Jet Black as the barrier layer and believe what is best is dependent upon other colors and the design itself. More to come at a later date on that topic as well.

mod-edit

[Nairda]

reply to colins feedback ‘Duracoat now produce a super opacity white for this purpose. I haven’t used it yet but it comes highly recommended. They are available from Hexis amongst others’ Does that mean i would only have to use the one layer of super opacity white without a block out colour in between or does it mean i would only need the one layer of white over the block out?

[Colin Crow]

That is what is intimated although as I said I haven’t used it yet I cannot confirm. I am sceptical that this would work in one pass although 2 may do the job without the dark interlayer. I think it would be trial and error.

Colin