Eco Sol Inks and Clearcoated Decals?

[Richard Urquhart]

frog juice works fine and also clearseal laminating fluid and i have also used 2k lacquer but would say frog juice is the way to go
rich

[OwenTaylor]

😀 that was quick – not just me here late on a Sunday evening then…

Thanks for the advice,

Owen

[Chris Wool]

only time i have had a problem was when the lacquer was thinned to much causing the vinyl to pull.

rich just a by the way don’t use application tape over frog juice on a print, nightmare story if you want.

chris

[Ian Bingham]

When using clear coat or lacquer use a fine sealing dust first then layer it in thin coats, never had any problems with doing it this way
Ian

[Craig Gibson]

I have a guy who wants a print on the bonnet of his stock car he is then going to lacquer whole bonnet. Would this be ok? Using Eco sol max inks.
Thanks

Craig

[Robert Lambie]

i would give him any old print you have lying around. hand him it and tell HIM to spray it as a test. if hes happy to go ahead then fine. me personally. i wouldn’t liquid laminate with anything other than purpose made stuff. I’m in no way saying you cant, i just mean ide rather do the job right at extra expense "of your own" than risk it to save the customer a few bob.

[Peter Normington]

I dont think this is to save the customer money Rob,
a print can be laquered so that it "becomes" part of the paint, and not a "sticker"
I have supplied print for bikers, who then apply to the panel before applying the final coat of laquer,
I am told that they give it a "mist" coat first then a final spray.
But, never the less, a good idea to to a test first,

Peter

[Robert Lambie]

yeh i know what you mean peter. and if this is the case, fair do…
i kinda sed read and took it was being done because there wasnt laminating fascility or that customer may not want to pay… maybe i should slow down my reading. lol
i have saw them do it on programs like orange county choppers, west coast customs etc… think i read Beej Curtis doing it too, which might be wrong as he normally does everything freehand. anyway…

anyway… as said… test test test… all chemicals have different content in it and could activate the ink to smudge, blurr, run whatever….

[Craig Gibson]

Thanks guys, Peter your right it’s not a cost thing and I could laminate.
He wants the print on and lacquered in.
I thought it sounded ok but was worried about any possible reaction.
If it were just vinyl can this be lacquered in or would exposure to heat cause the vinyl to move and possibly break the lacquer?

[Robert Lambie]

allow the vinyl adequate time to settle. ide guess minimum of 24hrs.

other than microns in thickness which is still going to be visible i recon regardless. laminate lacquer…

[Craig Gibson]

Thanks Robert. Will test first, the light mist first makes sense to.

[Stephen Morriss]

I’ve used printed and cut vinyl on bikes quite a lot and they’ve all been fine apart from areas were the vinyl was stretched too much, the solvent in the lacquer softens the glue for a while so it’ll pull back out.
Cast may not have this problem but I’ve never tried it.

The painter has always given it a dusting coat first as well.

Steve

[Roger Clements]

Craig…I’ve been doing graphics etc for a custom spray shop for a few months now and all my print is non laminated eco-sol. The paint shop thinks the stuff is the dogs’ danglies and the only problem…note single decal problem… from dozens of prints done was his fault (he admitted it was his fault) and due to poor application. And yes he laquers all the stuff I send him.

[Craig Gibson]

thanks for the reply guys, gives me a bit more confidence