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Dye sub printer advise please
Hi
Just going to get into Dye sub (mugs for now) and I’m wanting a little advise on the printer.
We do already have an Epson 1290 A3 printer that is not used much and from what I’ve read these were the one to have a year or so ago, is this still the case and if so what are the best inks to go for?Thanks
Steve -
16 Replies
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I use a 1290,
heres how to do it cheaper than the rip off companies that sell you the ink and bulk feeder for a ridiculous price.
Buy a 1290 bulk feed system off ebay, then buy some ink from anywhere that sells 1290 sublimation ink and fill it, make sure the ink has a profile to go with it, if it doesn’t buy the ink elsewhere.
Job done and 200 quid saved. -
I use thae Epson R220 with Bulk feed.. Did it the same way as Steve..
Fleebay.. Had it nearly 3 years and no problems..Cheers
Ian
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Ok I’ve ordered a bulk feed kit for the 1290 off fleebay so hopefully that’ll not take to long to arrive.
Has anyone used the inktec sublimation inks, they seem a little cheaper than the ones from The Magic touch.
I can see a whole new learning curve coming on, my wife has a lot to answer for 😀
Steve
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I use ink from continuousink.com but he has had to stop advertising it due to sawgrass bullying tactics, he still sells it though and its great stuff works good on our 1290
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Thanks for the info Steve.
Unfortunately they said they can no longer supply these inks, so it maybe they don’t trust me as they would an existing customer or they just can’t get them any more.Thanks
Steve -
In that case try Jan at revolution transfers, (pronounced yan)
He sells the ink Im sure -
i have an order from a company just now… we bought about 500 mug mats of one style and 500 of another. we also got key loops made up… couple of thousand i think… anyway, all were great quality and decent turnaround, price etc however, i recomended a freind to them that wanted about 50 mugs i think… i designed the mug wraps to match the mug mats/coasters. mats were perfect but the bug wraps were pretty poor. the digital pictres were too dark and the solid black areas near the top were sorta lightening… not as dense a black if that makes sense…
i knocked the proof back and they tried again… its now been three proof mugs sent and none are perfect. they ahve now decreased the size of the mug wrap graphics by about 15mm down from top and 15m up from the bottom. and about 45mm away each side of the handle. now the print is more acceptable, (as a compromise on our part) but because the wrap/graphics have been reduced so much some of the fine text is bleeding into each other and looks naff!. i pointed this out to them and they said, well we have done all we can, if you want them perfect you wil have to pay more for a different process and waite a minimum of two week s more. even though they are nearly 3 weeks late… what gets me is that we paid upfront, nearly 6 weeks ago now.
my gripe is, they should have knocked my artwork back as a no go if they couldnt do it with their current process, now, way down the line i look a fool to the people i recomended, they arent pleased and i may have to start from scratch.
any views on this from those doing mugs etc? i dont do anything like this so i am a bit in the dark as to if i am being took for a mug. pardon the pun :lol1:edit- sorry just realised im hijacking the thread. 😕
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I only do mugs in a press, a dedicated press.
The mug wraps are quite frankly crap, bleeding, distortion, fading etc, I just made some mugs, and part of the logo for the shop is black I have solid black no fading etc.
Its all down to ink, paper printer profiles, and time in press, there should be no issue with improving quality by scaling. 😮
I don’t think they were trying hard enough Rob, they were using a mug oven I bet, or doing them in a kiln all at once, its ok for designs that dont have massive blocks of colour but you cant beat a press really.
Either that or specialist equipment that costs an absolute fortune. -
thanks for the advice steve… i honestly think it is down to their kit or the process like you say. they should never have let it get this far down the line to turn and say another process is needed and more expensive at that, if this was the case. its a solid black wrap with 4 digital pictures at the bottom. the top half is white text. the thinner white text is being bleeded into by the black, now that they have reduced the wrap size… 🙄
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Send me the file if you like, as it was originally.
Ill try and print one see if we have any problems this end -
ok mate, will do… will have to be monday though as the artwork is on my work comp. 😀 thank you! 😉
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No probs
I was using the mug press today, so will leave it out. -
Hi,
My reply may be a little late and the issues may be sorted but may be of some help to someone.
Regarding ink, I have only ever tried 2 types – some cheapo no name from ebay, and sawgrass artainium. The cheap stuff worked fine but the colour reproduction wasnt good – no ICC profile was supplied, I couldnt get anywhere near the colours on the screen. Whilst some people find "somewhere near enough" acceptable, I really dont. The Artainium give much better results, there may be the smallest colour difference in but this of course depends on the substrate too, but I get very acceptable colour reproduction using the Artanium inks (Epson R1800 with sawgrasses ICC profile).
Robbie, it sounds like either the person doing the work for you isnt up to the job, or his/her equipment isnt. I can do full wraps top to bottomup to 1/" inch or just over from the handles. Black blacks and clear sharp images. It could be their press is naf, this would explain them not being able to get a decent wrap. The poor quality image could be their press, their settings, and.or the paper/ink they are using. If you want to pop me over the image I’ll press one and take a photo and post on here. -
I have found that printing your file from different sources makes a huge difference, i.e. Corel or Photo shop. J-peg or Tiff or eps in fact there are so many variables it’s a wonder any two companies will get the same result.
Peter
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I dont know what inks etc you are using, but results should be pretty close regardless of the app you use (as long as the app supports colour management and you have an ICC for the ink/printer of course) results will vary from printer/ink but all in all shouldnt be far off the original.
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I printed one and sent it to Rob, I think its sorted now.
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