do you recommend applying etch wet or dry?

[David Rogers]

As one big sheet, or as small cut text/design?

I do my large sheets wet, and anything with a large surface area that’s liable to trap bubbles – small stuff, nearly always dry. As a newbie – do it wet, it’ll cost you less!! But this depends on the temperature too.

If just a big sheet – don’t for goodness sake use application paper. Spray up the window with an ultra mild soap solution (two or three DRIPS per litre), spray the front of the vinyl prior to peeling (stops static attracting dust), spray the sticky side & then float into position. Use a wide window cleaners squeegee to smooth it out from the middle – it won’t scratch the surface & gets it done quickly & evenly. Note: If you get a crease in this stuff – it’ll stay there. And make sure the glass is perfectly clean!!

If text – get some help to keep the sheet tight (if working dry) and work methodically, always away from what you’ve just done – and with a slight overlap (so you don’t miss bits or trap air).

If you do go wet, wet glass is practically non-stick so patience is a virtue. Don’t be tempted to pull off the application tape too soon.

Dave

[Glen Mathers]

A window that size i would definitely do a wet fit.
Make sure the window is as clean as you can get it, the art of a good fit is a clean window. Buy a window scraper (the one with a stanley blade) and scrap left to right and up an down to make sure you have removed every bit of dirt. Then use a good cleaning solution.
When the window is clean your ready to peel the backing off your etch, if 2 of you are fitting get your mate to get ready to hold 1 end with with very clean finger ends.
Lay the etch on a suitable surface and start at 1 corner, lifting and then give it a spray (i use a cheap window cleaning solution- supermarkets own brand, don’t use the thick windowlene) then get your mate to hold the corner. Pull the rest of the backing paper back along the same edge to reach the other corner, again keep spraying a Little fluid ( don’t get it too wet, just a fine mist will do).
Keep your mate holding along the edge, not too tight thou just enough force to hold the vinyl, then while your peeling the rest of the backing paper off just keep spraying a fine mist of fluid over the exposed area of etched vinyl. When getting near the end just be careful when removing the last bit, sometimes it will try and fold over on itself, just keep it wet with a fine mist over the surface and that will be fine.
When complete you grab (with clean finger ends) the end your mate has the other and transfer to the window carefully. With the fine mist of spray on the vinyl you’ll be able to move it around on the window to position correctly, when you get it where you want it use a felt squeegee to remove all the fluid from under the vinyl working from the middle outwards and upwards, then just trim down your sides with a good sharp knife.
Good Luck,
Hope this helps, I’m no good at explaining things but I’ve done my best 😀

[Marcella Ross]

I agree totally with what’s already been said, if you’re applying a large plain section of etch, apply it wet without application paper. Give it a good spray of fluid and it will float on.
I always apply smaller sections of etch dry, as removing the app paper is a nightmare if it’s wet.

[Colin Aburrow]

Thanks for the response. I have 610mm machine so will be applying in sections. The designs is a complicated dragon for chinese restaurant. Dragon will be 1350mm dia. so dragon will have to be in three pieces (tried to do in 2 but to small for client) rest of window plain apart from simple design in each corner, will probably not use application tape for everything apart from dragon itself. What do you think. Am I missing something here because I thought you just sprayed the glass for a wet application? (said I was a newbie) Need to to do a lot more learning I think.

Colin

Windows are all new so I hope cleaning wont be to bad.

[Glen Mathers]

I always only spray the vinyl, because if you don’t , when peeling off the backing the vinyl becomes VERY static and it can easily fold over on it’s self, if it does your vinyl is for the bin, but if wet it does not stick to it’s self.
Spraying the vinyl just gives it enough moisture to be able to float into position and it makes it easier to squeegee the fluid from under the vinyl.
I never spray the window, it never needs it.

[Colin Aburrow]

Thanks

I will try that, it makes a lot of sense.

Colin

[Glen Mathers]

Good luck mate, you’ll have to postb a picture on here when you’ve done the job.

Glen

[Carrie Brown]

Hi Colin, Welcome to the boards!!

Lots of good advice from peeps here on applying the etch, hope it goes ok for you.

😀

[Hugh Potter]

do some practice stuff if you have enough material left over,

i did my first large windows as described above, yet it didnt stop me wasting £20 quids worth cos of a silly mistake !

one thing i would add, it is better to do it when the vinyl is warm, where i went wrong was that it was freezing outside, so the glass was cold, and the vinyl had been in the car overnight, so was also cold, that made the etch brittle, and it ripped when i tried to lift it from an area that had prematurely stuck itself down !

you cant take too much time over it !

i think i’d stick to a proper felt squeegee though, it wont leave any moisture that wont be dried out in a few days max, i think a rubber window cleaners type could ‘grab’ and pull the vinyl, creasing it, just my feeling !

good luck with it.

[David Rogers]

quote Hugh Potter:

i think i’d stick to a proper felt squeegee though, it wont leave any moisture that wont be dried out in a few days max, i think a rubber window cleaners type could ‘grab’ and pull the vinyl, creasing it, just my feeling !

Dry, then yes. But not if you spray the surface first, then it’ll just glide over doing an “Uncle Ben’s” (perfect results every time).
Been doing it that way for umpteen years (10ish) and never had it go wrong – ever.

[Hugh Potter]

ah, just re read your post, missed that bit, see your point !

[David Rogers]

Ach, don’t worry about it – I don’t even know what I TYPE half the time!! :lol1:

[Colin Aburrow]

Thanks all

Think I am getting my head around the job a little better thanks to your advice. The one thing I have not quite sorted out yet is I assume I will need to have an overlap, if so how long before I can remove application tape to do next bit? Not sure I have explained this properly but hopefully you will understand what I mean.

Thanks again for all your advice its all greatly needed “IMPUT” on the road to becoming as good as some of you guys’

Colin

[Hugh Potter]

depending on how well the water is expelled, you could remove it after about fifteen mins, soak it well first though, if it starts to lift, then leave it, if you have another window to do, do that and come back,

you could always tear off a strip on the bit you need to overlap, just be careful not to crease it, it marks real easy,

any water marks will usually dissapear after a day or two.