Colorific Ink & Cadet, major problem, help needed please

[Gary Birch]

How are you creating the black? We find that setting it up as R0, G0, B0 gives good results.

Strange that it was ok a couple of weeks ago though but definitely worth looking at.

Cheers

Gary

[Andrew Martin]

Is your black is made from cmyk ?… if your black print is turning green its more like your magenta head is blocked

[David McPhillips]

Thanks for the reply Gary ill give that ago all the other colours are firing and printing perfectly including the cyan using the same head.

I have tried pantone Black, process black, RGB Black, and 100% Corel black id normally have gotten the best results with a 100% pantone black and i always export as an EPS file in Corel but ill certainly give your suggestion a go.

Thanks again

Dave

[Jamie Wood]

Make a rich black using
C = 25%
M = 25%
Y = 25%
K = 100%

and make sure that the profile that you use is set to honour primary colours. This should give you a good dense glossy black.

[David McPhillips]

Hi Guys

Gary and Jamie just tried both your ideas on the colour profile yous both recommended but still getting that green colouring to the black but thank you both for your ideas.

Andrew hadnt really thought of the magenta head as this is printing a good solid colour with no issues.

any other ideas …..Im totally confused.

Thanks again

Dave

:police: Mod-Edit
* Please use "Descriptive Topic Titles" when posting.
* This posts Title has now been edited.

Please take a moment to look over our Board Rules.

[Stafford Cox]

I can only really agree with what’s been said already. A proper solid black for me should be no more the C:50 M:50 Y:50 K:100. Anything more than that is just a messy looking mud like colour.

Have you tried printing with no profile at all? I know it sounds strange but in Shiraz, if you turn off the output CMYK profile (leaving the other elements at default so it doesn’t overink), it often gives you a much more pleasing black than it would do by mixing all the colours together. Not quite sure how it works in Wasatch but something similar may be worth a try.

Stafford

[Jamie Wood]

Are you able to preflight the job once it is ripped? If you can, use an eyedropper tool
to check how the black is made up once ripped. As Stafford says, the profile may be
changing the output to different values. If it is, you need to turn the output profile off.
In Onyx, we have a profile set up with all profiles off, which gives us an exact mix of
colours to how they have been set up in the artwork.

[Steve McAdie]

I am doing this from memory so may be a bit wrong. Wasatch, Put file you want to print in rip, go to print set up select the configuration you want to print from click edit click special colours click add index colours right click colour you want control (black) select edit colour check the box/dot that says bypass colour management, set the values that you want they range 0-255 rather than 0-100% save it as a new configuration. The image in the rip will now display red/white lines where the black will be printed. Should cure the green black problem.

Steve

[Adrian Yeo]

Have you tried replacing the spot colour? Sure there has been a few threads on here with similar problem. Using Troop6 myself but from memory if you right click on the black in the rip you get the option to change spot colour. Take that option, then when the dialogue box appears, on the left hand side there is an option to device bypass. Tick that and save the profile then give it a go. I am sure that ends up printing directly from the black cartridge rather than mixing. Always gives me a nice glossy black.

Adie 😀

Just read what Steve put above, this gives the same red and white lines where the black was previously too.

[David McPhillips]

thanks for the replies really appreciated

Adrian/Steve I tried making the changes in Wasatch as you both suggested but i have only got the Troop 5 light version which came with the printer and it wont let me make changes to the spot colours/special colours it only lets me select colour tranforms tab under properties i am able to access the dot size giving options from variable to fixed darkest.

Jamie im not to sure what you mean by preflight once ripped and unfortnatley there is no eyedopper tool to check the ripped colour values within Wasatch though i wish there was to see if values had changed from between corel to exporting as a EPS.

Stafford I agree totally with you and would have gave the same answer as you have given should someone have asked me this question, though what i cant understand is im using the same rip profile and the same artwork as i have printed before without any problems and got a good solid black but i agree it does look like it is laying down different inks but i just cant figure out why, it could be something as simple as a box ticked or unticked during exporting or within the rip but i just cant see anything different to normal. i will have a look as you suggested to see if you can print using no specific profile and see how that goes.

Thanks again fellas for all your help and input

Dave

[Stafford Cox]

No probs Dave.

It can only be something like that as having printed the exact same thing successfully beforehand tells us that there’s nothing wrong with the file or profile as such. Unfortunately I’ve hit a bit of a brick wall from here though as I’ve not had chance to learn Wasatch at all yet. I’m sure somebody who uses it frequently will give you more of an idea of what to try from here.

I’d be interested to know what fixes it in the end.

Best of luck
Stafford