Advice on fitting print heads please?

[David Rowland]

ok… well there is a rubber sealing ring inside the print head when it is taken apart that should be changed and you may need to change the metal surround around the bottom of the print head. That will make the head solvent compatible.

no need to flush head prior but their is a HEAD ID code that needs to be written down before you put it in.

CAnt speak about Roland’s procedure, but it is important for the Mimakis

[Jason Williams]

Thanks Dave
forgot to say i have fitted the solvent seal and cap top.

[Chris Wool]

By cap top i hope you mean the manifold which Epson are not solvent proof.
The id is entered before you remove the old one as it can’t be checked later.
Only ever use the correct fluid iso prop and others like it will dry to quick and block nossels.
Other pit fall is make sure the anti static strip is fitted and not bent

[David Rowland]

take care removing dampers too … break the top of the pin (on the manifold) and u be crying, well getting another manifold isn’t too hard

[Andrew Martin]

I have changed DX4 printheads on my mimaki, there is a few pitfalls to look out for which will be probably simular to a Roland, then you have the problem of head alignment, this took me longer to do than change the head itself.

As mentioned water based heads will need their manifolds and o rings changed for solvent type use.

But you will need to flush heads of water based heads prior to using them for solvent use as they ship with a slight water based fluid in them.

The other thing is on water based DX4 heads there is two head id stickers on top of each other, the top one is for the intended water based use under this is the id you need for solvent use.

[Jason Williams]

Thanks Andrew
did you just flush the new head with a solvent flush or somthing else.

[Andrew Martin]

I used the flush thats compatable with my inks… i injected 10cc very slowly with a damper attached using a syringe and tubing from an old pump.

[Jason Williams]

Thanks Andrew
I’ll let you know how it works out

[Jason Williams]

Well things did not go well.
1/ fitted solvent head caps and rubber
2/ fitted new capping station
3/ new dampers
4/flushed the each side of the head with 10ml of eco sol flush through
a new damper
5/ fitted the head and spent a little time trying to get a seal as it was
not pulling the ink through.
6/ 20 + blocked nozzels and a few deflections
7/ many head cleans later 4 blocked and 2 5 bad deflections.

think i’m goining to give it up and get roland in

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[Chris Wool]

bit of a bummer that, you sure the pump is ok

[David Rowland]

Sounds like pump or capping is not sealing well

Do you see ink moving in the tubes as it pumps? is there any rubber blocks near the pumps? can u see ink dripping out of the waste tank end?

[Chris Wool]

other check is.

tell the printer to do a nozzel check and as the head is at the left end lift the front cover to stop it.
put some fluid on the capping station and operated the pump by hand you should see the capping station sucked dry almost immediately.
close the front cover and the head will finish and park its self.

[Andrew Martin]

You say you had 20 + blocked nozzles and a few deflections, But after
many head cleans later you have 4 blocked and 25 bad deflections..so it sounds like to me that ink is being pulled through and at least your going in the right direction as far as unblocking the nozzles, try soaking the heads in flush solution, is there a nozzle wash facility on your machine to do this ?