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  • Advice on drilling Clear Acrylic?

    Posted by Phill Fenton on 5 October 2009 at 11:12

    What method do you use to drill holes in clear acrylic ready to accept a stand off locator?

    The reason I ask is because I struggle to get a clean finish. I usually find the edges chip at the point where the drill breaks through (I have used a metal drill bit) – This is covered up by the stand off locator but I would appreciate some advice on the best way to do this

    Stephen Morriss replied 16 years ago 7 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Martin Pearson

    Member
    5 October 2009 at 11:17

    I always drill from both sides with acrylic Phill, if you use a jig then you know all the holes are in exactly the same place. You could try a slower speed as well. Not sure if you could use a tile drill for acrylic, that might do a decent job, will have to go and try that one out.

  • Martin Manley

    Member
    5 October 2009 at 11:28

    Piece of scrap wood (not your bench!) below acrylic, lean heavily or even clamp it, near where the hole is being drilled. Use a hi-speed metal drill on a fast speed but take it easy!! If it’s tight enough to the wood at the back it will glide through. ON bigger holes, drill a pilot first. Practise on offcuts till you get the knack…
    Martin

  • Mike D

    Member
    5 October 2009 at 11:53

    deleted

  • Fred McLean

    Member
    5 October 2009 at 12:48

    Blunt drill if you have one!!!!(watch it doesn’t wander too far)
    Or as said previous clamp to a bit of old plywood or similar 😀

  • Neil English

    Member
    5 October 2009 at 14:29

    Ive found using one of those triangle type drills that goes up in say 2mm steps very good for this job.

  • David Rogers

    Member
    5 October 2009 at 15:39

    The guaranteed, 100% will work method that I’ve used on every material used in signmaking – from traffolite to cheap acrylic, even sytrene & thin steel.

    You won’t find engineers using blunt drills.

    SHARP drill – and a sacrificial piece if (ideally) the same material to go behind where you are drilling.

    Drill high speed (rotational), low feed (light pressure) so it cuts its way through rather than melt like with a blunt drill. Use other hand (or foot depending on the sheet size) to hold the two layers together – the drill then effortlessly glides through from the sheet you WANT the hole in to the sacrificial one without so much as a pause. ZERO chipping.
    I’ve drilled literally thousands of holes this way – and trust it to give me perfect results through expensive sheets of 8mm cast.

    Dave

  • Stephen Morriss

    Member
    5 October 2009 at 15:51

    Good quality sharp drill and some wood or plastic behind to drill through into.

    You can grind the drill so it has little or no rake to stop the drill grabbing but that requires a steady hand.

    Steve

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