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  • Advice needed with rough looking class 1 reflective?

    Posted by Ian Higgins on 7 August 2006 at 12:39

    Hi Folks,

    Have just landed a jod to fit the rear of 12 small transits with class 1 type honeycomb vinyl..

    Not used it before so looking for any advice or tips to help the job progress smoothly..

    I have seen quite a few vehicles done this way and they look pretty rough after 12 months or so.. Is there a specific reason for this??

    All advice appreciated.

    Cheers
    Ian

    Andy Gorman replied 19 years, 3 months ago 5 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Micheal Donnellan

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 12:49

    Could it be that they were not edge sealed and maybe did not stick right to the van.

  • Robert Lambie

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 12:56
  • Andy Gorman

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 13:30

    High conspicuity materials tend to be quite thick, so will get damaged more than regular stuff. What is worse is when it isn’t edge sealed. After a while water will seep into the cells which stops the contaminated area from reflecting. If the kit you are fitting isn’t pre-edge sealed then you can varnish the edges with a clear UV lacquer or run a clear line of vinyl over the edges and onto the bodywork, all around any cut edge.

    If there is any chance at all that you will be asked to remove the stuff in the future, then seriously consider laying it on top of some normal vinyl first. Removal involves a heat gun, wallpaper scraper and a lot of scratched paintwork!

    If you are buying the kit ready made from someone like PVL then you shouldn’t have any problems fitting as it will be tailored to allow for any curves etc.

  • Ian Higgins

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 14:31

    Thanks for the advice.. I wish I had checked here before doing the design!!! The kits that are available leave quite a lot of the original vehicle colour showing, the design I did had the whole of the back covered as we do with normal reflective!!!

    By the sounds of it there is no conformity at all.

    Cheers
    Ian

  • Andy Gorman

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 14:36

    These materials are not conformable. In fact, you may get it to stick to a slight compound curve, only to find it has popped off again a week later. What is the design? If it is chevrons, like Rob’s demo, then the curve isn’t a problem as the kit is made of many small pieces.

    When I made these kits, I would cut it in Dutch greyboard first and tape it to the vehicle as greyboard mimics the conformability (or lack of) of the diamond grade. Any parts that wouldn’t lay flat without creasing would be redesigned, or a join would be made.

  • Ian Higgins

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 14:57

    Hi Andy,

    It is a Transit connect rear doors in cheverons that the customer wants.
    The kits that come for them do not include above the window which the customer wants covering.

    There are a few curves at the bottom of the doors which may be a pain!!

  • Phill Fenton

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 15:46

    Do you have a cutter capable of cutting class 1 reflective – As I understand it this stuff will not cut on an ordinary plotter – I may be wrong maybe Andy can advise?

  • Ian Higgins

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 18:39

    Hi Phill,

    i don’t plan cutting it, I am just doing 100mm wide chevrons on the rear doors… Just got a price of £270 a roll at 100mm wide with sealed edges 😮

    I need 2 colours!!!

    Cheers
    Ian

  • Robert Lambie

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 19:03

    phills right, you would need a decent "flat-bed" vinyl cutter to cut this type of material as its thick and difficult to cut.
    personally ide go with PVL or the like and have them do your kits. works much better price wise, i recon…

  • Andy Gorman

    Member
    7 August 2006 at 20:20

    Not cheap is it!?

    Don’t forget, you will still need to seal the edges that you cut, even if they are butted up to the next piece.

    When handcutting class 1, cut it from the back. It will then snap, without you even having to cut all the way through. Cutting from the front is possible with a stanley knife but not as easy.

    Also, put a radius on any corners. This will prevent fragile corners getting snagged and snapping off in future. About the size of a penny will do it. These materials are very brittle, especially when cold.

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