accurate placing of t-shirt logo’s, advice req’d please

[Neil Speirs]

Here’s a placement guideline I found somewhere:

Golf Shirts 7-1/2" to 9" down from the left shoulder seam and 4" to 6" over from center – in line with neck meeting shoulder seam.

T-Shirts >7-1/2" to 9" down from the left shoulder seam and 4" to 6" over from center

Jackets Left Breast Area: 3-1/2" to 4" over from the center edge and 6" to 8" down from the shoulder seam – Snap jackets – 2nd snap location

Full Fronts Depends on size of garment – Center of design should be high enough on the garment to ensure that no part of the design falls below the bottom of the "arm it" – Top of design 3" below neck band.

Full Backs Top of design – 5" down from base of neck – large designs OK to go below arm pits. Garments with hoods – designs must be placed lower to clear hood.

You could also look at 1 of these for future orders: http://www.teesquareit.com/
Seems to get good reviews from users

[Hugh Potter]

many thanks Niel,

i’ll give that a go.

thanks again.
hugh

[graffica]

For backs of shirts where there is normally a large image: First I line it up approximately in position by eye so that it looks straight, a hand width
down from the neck and then measure equidistant from each side of the garment. Same would apply for a large image on the front.
As has been said, for hoodies you have to make sure that the hood doesn´t cover any part of the image.
Small logo on front of T-shirt: Again a hand width down and offset from the centre of the shirt … I use the label in the shirt as a guide.
Polo shirts: 2-3 cms. from the seam where the buttons are. I generally make logos or lettering no more then 10 cms. wide. Any larger and they tend to be too far towards the arm. I press these on the corner of the heat press.
I tape everything into position first using Scotch tape that´s sold in the blue packet. So much cheaper than buying heat-resistant tape and does the same job.

Chris A

[Steve Underhill]

Polos a hand width down from the neck and 2 fingers in from the placket.
same with Ts just 2 fingers from centre.
I sometimes lay one I have pressed over the top with the collar lined up and flip it back and forth like an old cartoon, when the one underneath doesnt look like its moving
its right.

Chest logos hand width down from neck and central.
back logos the same if its writing, lower if its hoodies,
I do everything in fingers and hands, its very common in the industry.

But as mentioned a T square looks ok, but one thing I have that has been a godsend is a T shirt folder, 17 quid off ebay U paid then my mate got 2 for a tenner.
Saves a LOT of time.

[Justin Mann]

T-Square it I can’t seem to get on very well with at the moment (Now being stocked by SubliNation here in the UK) but it does get rave reviews. Personally I find it easier by eye.

Flipfold is the official folding gizmo which is brilliant, wouldn’t be without it. I notice there are cheaper copies appearing on eBay now but the original isn’t very expensive.

Cheer,
Justin

[Steve Underhill]

Amazing fold is the one I use, its well made and sturdy
well worth the 17 quid I paid

[Hugh Potter]

thanks for the help guys.

Hugh

[Justin Mann]

Anyone seen the automatic folding machines in action? Folds, puts into bag and drops into the box for you! Don’t think I could justify it myself but brilliant to watch!

Justin 🙂

[Steve Underhill]

ok if youre churning out 5k of shirts a day i guess.
Im not
not yet anyway

[Justin Mann]

5 would be a good day!

😉

[Steve Underhill]

especially at the prices we get for ours,
😉

[John Cooper]

This is clearly the best way I’ve seen of folding a shirt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzFwn064 … re=related[/url]

[Justin Mann]

Was somebody folding a t-shirt in that clip? Can’t say as I noticed

Justin 😳