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White backup vinyl over clear graphic help?
Can anyone advise on any vinyl that i could use for the following project please?
I’m not an expert on different vinyls and some of you may have used different vinyl manufactures and may have a better idea than me on this.
We reverse print onto clear and back it up with White vinyl ( Avery 800 ) but we are finding that the two come apart with abuse sometimes, we are just looking to see if there is any other white vinyls – same equivalent to the above that would have a stronger adhesive to hold the two together ?
I have used the Gerber edge and flood coated it white but once stretched it breaks and you see cracks, I have wanted to screen print white but is this possible in house to test without getting all the screen printing equipment?
Thanks for any advise.
Tim -
6 Replies
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When you flood coat with white, whose foils are you using – spandex, printone etc? Does the rest of the print not crack in that case?
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print one flood coat foil, its when we put double sided adhesive to it and it touches anything it cracks the foil and it comes away form the clear .
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We’ve been using the new Arctic WHite from Spandex, very good, haven’t had any problems with it cracking
Jason
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when you say with abuse, cracks etc do you mean you are trying to apply it to uneven substrates, stretching or even wrapping with it?
I’m guessing the printing process is always thermal printing? -
yeah when its bent or stretched it breaks or separates , but once you try to stick it and replace it the thermal white print comes apart, if i do it all thermal then no problems at all , its only when i digitally print it then try to flood it on the edge this happens – The white vinyl Avery 800 works but its two pieces as the edge way is one piece so should be better, Is there other vinyl manufactures that would have a really strong adhesive to them?
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im maybe not understanding you 100% tim, but …
to "try" explain my own thoughts on it is…
thermal printing is like a dry skin of ink fused onto the surface of the vinyl.
if you have 100% ink coverage you have a dry skin of ink over the surface.
if you laminate that, you now have two layers of vinyl sandwiching a dry skin of ink. there for there is nothing to actually hold both layers of vinyl together if any sort of pulling apart action occurs.
im guessing but i would imagine the metalic inks would have less bite, so to speak, due to whatever extras are in the ink to create the chrome effect.here is a post i made about 5 years ago on solvent ink. much the same story but thermal, i would be imagine, to have more of these issues than solvent.
http://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?t=16563before we had our thermal machine a good few years ago now… we had a loan of a wax resin thermal machine. i remember laminating a print i did on that as a test and it was hopeless… the laminate came away holding the picture on its adhesive side, with nothing left on the actual printed onto film.
same goes for UV Flatbed printed. we spent about £65,000 on a flatbed machine. similar story… i printed onto di-bond one day… print was excellent. came out dry, prefect as could be. walked over and guillotined off the edges of dibond so i had a perfect edge-to-edge print. as i walked away from the gilotine i noticed a little dog-ear on the metal. i picked it away and i was left with a 100% intact photograph made up of dry UV ink.
the dibond was completely clean, bare white. i scrunched the picture up and it broke into a million tiny peaces of dry ink. was weird…obviously all the above comes down to keying issues of the ink onto the substrate/media…
hope my waffling has maybe helped and i hope some of it is relevant to what your asking. :lol1:
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