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Lightbox issue help please
I have a customer who wants a lightbox fitting. the lightbox is to be 3′ x 20′ so is pretty big. As for the problem there is a metal drain pipe right in the middle of the building which is gonna interfere with the lightbox. Is there a way round this??
Cheers in advance
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27 Replies
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I take it there’s no way of avoiding the pipe. I’m assuming you buy the light box’s in. if thats the case might be an i dea to check with your supplier. I anit a clue how your gonna get that done mate. 😮
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Get customer to re-route the drainpipe or its a no brainer. Other alternative is expensive bracket making to stand sign away from wall. I think he will chose to move the drainpipe myself. 🙄
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how big is the drain pipe?
and how large is the profile on the box?? -
thanks for your replies. The drain pipe is about 25 cm’s in diameter and lies right in the middle of the proposed sign to be. the sign is to be 20 ‘x3 ‘ long. what would be the best thing to do? the brackets do sound pretty good. the sign is to go on a converted pub and the drainpipe is going to be difficult to reroute and probably quite expensive.
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I have had this exact same problem.
All I did was remove the downpipe section, cut a hole top & bottom in the lightbox and fit the pipe through the sign. It was an old cast downpipe so I replaced in PVC. Worked a treat!
The tubes have to be sited to accommodate this and also wrap the pipe where it’s inside the box in white vinyl to give some reflectance. -
Hi Peter,
But would water not get in to the electrics if you cut a hole in the lightbox? surely there could be some water seaping through and between the pipe and the cut area of the lightbox?
Please advise.
Thanks
Phillip
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Use flexible waterproof roofing sealing tape from a builders merchant.
It’s like a gauze impregnated with grease.
Only do the top of the case. -
Thanks peter. So is there any particular reason why you wouldn’t waterproof the bottom or is it just that you don’t need to? My initial thoughts were to get the lightbox manufacturer to cut a half circle in the middle of the light box (top and bottom) and then just fit it using silicone or something or get some roofing tape as you did. would that work?? also was there any particular reason why you had to cut the drain pipe? The site i need to work on has it going straight down the building and i cant see why i would have to cut it? or am i missing something??
cheers
Phillip
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Phillip, all lightboxes will get water inside somehow. As a precaution an escape route at the bottom is advisable.
I used a hole cutter to make a perfectly sized hole.
Reason for removing the drainpipe is that the hole was centred within the depth of the lightbox (about 110mm) as the drainpipe was set away from the wall by some 40mm or more so a half moon cut in the back was not suitable. So that was the only way to fit the pipe back, by sliding it through the box.
A circle cut in to the box lets it retain its strength whereas a half circle cut at the back will weaken it when handling. Additionally, a circle is easier to seal up with silicone or whatever.I’ve posted the picture here of that job:
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Just as an aside, I always drill a few small holes in the bottom of lightboxes to let the water drain out. I replaced the electrics in an old one the other day and there was an inch of water in the bottom and a little eco system of plants and lichen growing in there!
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Hi Peter,
Thanks for the pic. Problem is i’ve unveiled another issue. The drainpipe is cast iron. Also it has a bracket exactly in the lightbox to be area.
Any suggestions? 🙄
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Sounds like a soil vent pipe, not a rainwater pipe. Is the face of the sign in front of the pipe? If the pipe does split the sign in two, why not do it in two pieces with just the perspex in one piece sliding over the 2 boxes.
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Hi David,
yes right down the middle. If i do it in 2 pieces, would it not cause a dark patch on the perspex where the drain pipe is behind the perspex?? also if the lightboxes are done in 2 pieces, would it need to be custom made for the perspex to be slid in to both??
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Phillip, this is not rocket science, if it’s cast iron you must remove a whole section and replace in pvc. It might be possible to get a cast to pvc converter, so you could cut the pipe where you like. An angle grinder is best to remove the fixings and cut up the pipe.
You’ll need a few new wall clips.
Soil pipe will be 4 inches diameter and would be unusual to run down the front of a building. If the pipe goes up to the gutters then it’s a drainpipe! -
Hi Peter, I know it is not rocket science but it does need some thought. We do need some more information though, but Phillip has stated that it is 25cm / 9" pipe so it sounds like soil pipe. Soil pipes can run at the front of buildings.
If I had a building that had cast iron pipe on the front I would not be happy having a ‘bit’ cut out and a piece of plastic pipe inserted. Also at that point you would be losing a bracket and with the weight of cast iron it would be a bit ropey. I would leave the pipe alone and mount the sign proud.
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That sounds more like a commercial building rainwater pipe and surely the sign can’t be set off the face by 9 inches or so too easily.
It’s really difficult to judge this one without seeing it though. -
Hi Guys
I have attached the image to give you a better idea. I have spoken to my lightbox supplier and he has said that to make 2 lightboxes up with the pipe in between and join the perspex to make it look as one big sign. Note that the banner will be replaced with the lightbox and the bracket also lies there.
[/right] -
Nothing is ever easy is it?
Hope it all goes well for you.
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Can’t quite tell from the picture but it looks like it may be a stink pipe.
Purely to vent the drains above the gutter.
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You Client is probably set in his ways and wants a lightbox but looking at the place wouldn’t something classier look better. e.g Letters on standoffs with spot or strip lights? The pipe being painted the same colour as the wall hides it a bit, and space the wording so the pipe is in a space?
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I would agree with David. I think they’re horrible things.
The biggest problem with the 2 split light boxes will be aligning them perfectly level together.
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could you change from a light-box to a fret cut tray with just the graphics illuminated, the tray could fit over the pipe and not have to worry about a dark spot
this is the way I would do this and Illuminated Trays in my opinion look nicer than light-boxes
Patrick
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I’m beginning to think that built up letters would be a good idea. With the tray would it not still be the same issue?? how would that work exactly? do you have a pic patrick??
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Patrick I’m assuming you mean to cut like a half moon in the tray to accomodate for the pipe. But would that not mean that water could get in to the electrics? I have spoken to the customer today and he said that as long as it lights up then its fine!
Please advise
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Think a picture of the proposed location may well help others help you……
Could be looking at a simple frame to stand a slimline box away from the wall.
Word of warning about altering supplied boxes. The manufacturer will supply to a given IP rating and if you start cutting holes you will probably invalidate any warranty given 😮
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Hi Graeme,
pic on page 3. So your saying add a frame to literally extend away from the pipe and then use a lightbox or fret cut tray?? Personally I am inclining towards fret cut panel work with lit letters or stand off letters with haylow effect. thats probably going to be the best way.
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Hi Phillip
Sorry its taken a while to answer.
I think if position the graphic to take in account of the down pipe
and use LEDs just illuminate them, there should be no problem with
any water that would get inYou may have to make the tray in two or more sections.
I had done a quick drawing but unable to attach it
Patrick
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