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Panel material for panatrim frame
Hi All
There are a lot of topics on this and I have read most of them until my eyes turned square. 😕 (I also now know John really really hates the stuff :lol1: )
I am trying to find information on what type of material you can use in the panatrim frame for a frame size of 5020mm X 800mm.
I know a few but would like confirmation as well as advice on the panel locks I would need to use, these ones below have a rebate area which I am not sure how to make.
What is the best and easiest material to use and what to use to lock the panels together.
Thanks in advance all.
Warren
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23 Replies
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Warren use a router to make the rebate, an alternative to panel locks is a flat metal spring plate that is located in the two ends of the frame to keep the panels pushed together.
Foamex. perspex and dibond all can be used, dont forget the hanging strips though, and if using 3 or 4mm dibond you will need a spacer strip as well
Peter
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Hi Peter
Thanks for clearing that up. I will have to go with the springs as I do not have a router 😕 yet!
Sorry for my ignorance but what is the spacer strip for and where does it go? I know the gap is 5mm so the dibond will be too thin but not sure about the spacer 😕
cheers
Warren
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i have 6 minutes left of net time just now so ill be quick… :lol1:
why do not need the rebate on composite board-dibond with panel locks?
im maybe not thinking straight here but ide iamgine you wouldnt need them here.
a hand held router is all thats needed waren, get them from b&Q from about 20 pounds upwards. you will need a flat head bit for the rebate.
im guessing these panel locks are from sign makers products? seem a good system, i have some samples i have yet to try out, but will iin my return. ive been sent LED´s and panel returns also to review…ok 3 minutes left… 😕 :lol1:
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HI Rob
Thanks for 3 of your last 6 minutes :lol1: 😉
Yes they are the ones from SMP, I know you can’t answer me now but are you saying acrylic with a rebate is the best option?
SMP can supply everything ready but not sure if this is included so I will have to find out, it will save me having to do it.
It is not so much the cost of the router but the space to use it 😕 Fascias are the way I want to go in the future and I dream of a unit with loads of space to work, but for now I need to make alternative plans.
cheers Rob (Hope you enjoying yourself)
Warren
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Warren the spacer is an appropriate thickness of material 25-50mm in width stuck to the back off the panel like the hanging strip but just to increase the thicknes of the panel.
pic to follow if you dont get my explanation.
[ If you have a deep panel you can glue pieces of the same material to the back to form an interlocking tongue and groove, so the join is not able to separate. and at the same time forming a rebate (only really needed for foamex as it bends easy)
Peter
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Warren, rebates will be needed for light boxes, as panel locks or any other method that adds material will show through when illuminated.
Peter
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Hi Peter
I understand about the spacer but where about do they go? along the top and bottom edge to keep it flush with the frame?
I’m not quiet getting the rebate and panel lock options yet 😕 sorry, normally these things come quiet easy to me 😳 As it is not a light box what is the easiest method?
cheers
Warren
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Warren,
Which part of the rebate’s are you not getting ??
Is it how to make them or what are they for ??
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Hi Glenn
No, it’s whether or not I need them and what other options do I have.
(Thanks for the pic Peter, just as I thought 😉 )
Quote:
[ If you have a deep panel you can glue pieces of the same material to the back to form an interlocking tongue and groove, so the join is not able to separate. and at the same time forming a rebate (only really needed for foamex as it bends easy)This confused me a little, seems like only need rebate for foamex as it bends easy? 😕
Thanks guys
Warren
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Warren.
the reason for a rebate or panel lock, is to stop the wind getting behind the panel and blowing it our, Phil and Andy will say they are not blown out, but sucked out, it amounts to the same thing though.
so it depends on the depth and material if you need to use one, both or none of the methods
Its always a good idea to keep the joins together. so springs are my first choice
Dibond is not really suitable for and don’t need for rebates, -
Warren,
One method is to put a bridge one one side (left in drawing) & a shaped piece to locate into the bridge on the other panel.
This doesn’t lock the two panels together but it does give a little bit of leeway if the panels drift apart…this method is probably best used wit the springs Peter mentioned
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Thanks Peter & Glenn
I understand now thank you.
If I use 5mm acrylic (non illuminated) what route should I take to join the 2 panels?
I can insert from the side if that makes any difference.
cheers
Warren
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just a spring would be ok
Peter -
Thanks Peter, I think I’m sorted now. If I need anything else I’ll be sure to ask 😉
cheers
Warren
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Warren
If you are using springs make sure you insert them before you but the angle joints in…..quite easily forgotten but a pain in the backside if you do
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quote glenn:Warren
If you are using springs make sure you insert them before you but the angle joints in…..quite easily forgotten but a pain in the backside if you do
good tip, thanks Glenn
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quote Warren Beard:I also now know John really really hates the stuff :lol1:And still you don’t take any notice! 😀
All my efforts and you still want to use the bl00dy stuff?
*rofl*
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John,
Is it Panatrim specifically or all these fascia systems you don’t like??
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quote John Childs:quote Warren Beard:I also now know John really really hates the stuff :lol1:
And still you don’t take any notice! 😀
All my efforts and you still want to use the bl00dy stuff?
*rofl*
:lol1: :lol1: :lol1: :lol1: I was waiting for you John :lol1: :lol1: :lol1:
Customer has an old red one currently in bad condition and wants the same, I suggested something else which I am still doing but she seems quiet insistent 😕
sorry John 😉
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quote glenn:Is it Panatrim specifically or all these fascia systems you don’t like??
No discrimination here. I detest and despise ALL those nasty, flippy-floppy, cheap and nasty, flimsy one piece extrusions.
Warren, yeah, I know. You do what you gotta do. 😀
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😀 😀 😀
Why though ??
What would you have in their place ??
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quote John Childs:I detest and despise ALL those nasty, flippy-floppy, cheap and nasty, flimsy one piece extrusions.
What do you use then John ? I personally like trays and try push those as much as possible but sometimes we can’t always get what we want and have to give the customer what they want 😕 bloody customers :lol1:
cheers
Warren
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http://www.kestrelsigns.com/boxes.htm
If I have to use a frame at all, I go for Signframe, down at the bottom of the page.
It’s a three piece extrusion and a lot more rigid and solid feeling than Panatrim and it’s clones. A better quality product all round.
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