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whats the best method of di- bond fixing?
hi to one and all, relative newbie, so any info much appreciated, i have a job coming up using di bond, question: what is the best method to fix this particular board, it is going to be curved, fixing to existing curved board (which is in good condition) would you recommend drill & countersink screw, what would you recommend for "hiding" the screw head, vinyl cap? or there any "up market" fixings that have a more elegant look.
many thanks. -
9 Replies
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How much of a radius and what size is the board ricko?
also what is the existing panel made of?
and does it have an external edge?Peter
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You could use Bighead fasteners bonded to toe back of the Di-bond panel, that way you won’t see any fixings in the face of the sign at all.
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hi peter
the size of the board is 90cm high 400cm long, the existing board is made from ply, and it doesnt have an external edge,
hi martin
thanks for your reply also, who supplies the big head fastners? -
I have found suppliers of bighead on the net…………many thanks
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Richo Bighead are a company so they supply the fastenings, sorry don’t have a contact number for them but a google search should locate them, its all one word Bighead not two.
Just checked myself !!
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Ive fixed to curved fascias myself you can screw and use cover caps but personally I would drill countersink the head just below and cover with circle of vinyl to match – almost unnoticeable – no need for bighead fastners over the top IMHO.
John
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Just my personal view but I think visible fixings on the signface tend to make a sign look cheap, and to be avoided if at all possible. And screw-caps only draw attention to the fixings. Counter-sunk screws are just about okay if primed/sprayed in a colour matched to the background. No surprise then that we’re big fans of folded trays.
For smaller signs there’s always ‘Grip-fix’ or similar.
For smaller signs- If it must have a screw fixing, why not try the ‘dummy plate method’ . Cut a 3mm dummy plate from scrap ali or Dibond very slightly smaller allround and screw that to the wall making sure the c/sunk screws are not standing proud – then simply apply the sign to the dummy plate using a good double-sided tape. Could work with curved, but trickier I guess.
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John, I hate seeing fixings on sign facias and would rather conceal them if at all possible, obviously adds to the cost of a job but I normally give the customer the option rather than deciding for them. Some are quite happy to pay a bit extra and some obviously are not, but like you said it is all down to opinion and with a good vinyl match they can be almost invisible from the right angle and in the right lighting conditions.
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quote David Shannon:For smaller signs there’s always ‘Grip-fix’ or similar.oooooooh no no no. !!!!!!!
that stuff should be banned, beneath an orrible nailed on correx sign i removed (15ftx3ft) was an old foamex sign,
some well intentioned signmaker, had glued it on, gripfill or the like, and it took two of us over an hour to remove it, it simply shattered everywhere, then the large chunks still stuck to the glue had to be chiselled off !
not fun !
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