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NEW WORK BENCH ADVICE
Hi all, appologies if this aint in the right forum..
I am currently looking at making a new work bench for weeding, laminating from, applying application tape from etc etc.
Any advice on design etc including work surface??
Our current bench has an mdf top and i have always found that we get "contamination" from when we cut on it, dust particles etc.
Any help and advice is appreciated.
cheers
stephen -
14 Replies
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Hi
we are using Di bond for the counter top and it is working very well.Peter
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we use glass it blunts blades quite fast but you always have a nice flat surface and no grooves to slip into
Lynn
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Stephen, I would go for a glass top as well, you will never cut a groove in it so there are no problems with your blade following an old cut line, it will probably last you for your whole life. You can turn it into an illuminated table fairly easily if you need to latter on.
It does blunt blades but so does every other type of table top, it probably does blunt blades a bit quicker than other materials but I don’t think it makes that much difference as to how long the blades last and they are so cheap to buy.
You could also look at self healing mats as well, can’t remember who supplies them (think it might be Jag) but I know one of the sign suppliers does them printed with a grid which may be handy, won’t last anywhere near as long as glass but will be cheaper. -
i also use toughened glass,
it’s a solid worktop material (recently had over 140kg on 1 half of it !),
it’s a light box,
weeding bench,
application bench !
bait sorting bench ! (mucky, fresh dug bait for my sea fishing, ideal cos it’s wipe clean !)it does scratch, but doesn’t score deep enough to cause blades to skid off course, as lynn said, it takes the tips of stanley blades off pretty quickly, leaving the rest of the blade untouched, but it’s a small price to pay in my book!!
i dropped a hammer on in a few weeks back while nailing in a few nails to the top of the wall, i was kneeling on the top at the time, heart stopping moment for sure ! still, it didn’t break!
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thinking of adapting this design for my new bench,
http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/articl … /main.html
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Thanks for all that, laminated glass seems to be the work top of choice..
the link was great, gives me some useful ideas thanks for that too.
just another quick question tho?? how do i secure the glass to the frame, cos i don’t suppose it would be easy to drill……..:-)
cheers
stephen -
Steven have you seen this topic, polypropelene seems like another good option. Trying to find an Irish supplier of it to give it a go.
http://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.p … ypropylene
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either route a rebate in the wood and drop the glass in place or use stock ali angel to hold it down around the edges, depending on size it’ll be pretty heavy so won’t really go anywhere !
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quote ste68blue:Thanks for all that, laminated glass seems to be the work top of choice..the link was great, gives me some useful ideas thanks for that too.
just another quick question tho?? how do i secure the glass to the frame, cos i don’t suppose it would be easy to drill……..:-)
cheers
stephenI have an 8 x 4 glass top, table frame made to fit, the glass sits on top, doesn’t move anywhere!
I also used to have an MDF bench, and it was awful. I then had a mat from Jag, which isn’t self-healing, whatever they say. Glass is MUCH better, despite the blunted blades. The polypropylene sounds good too.
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I’ve been using polypropylene for about 3 years now…and although really badly scored it still works perfectly and doesn’t fall to bits – and it’s dirt cheap too!
Other advantages are it won’t blunt your blades, is semi-nonstick, reversable, unbreakable, chemicals don’t affect it.
Dave
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hi, probably a silly question but where do i get polypropolene from??
cheers
stephen -
stephen
we use Linoleum used upside down for our work tops, it works exactly like a cutting mat, self healing when you cut into it and doesn’t blunt the blades.
been using the same piece on our worktop for 5 years now and never needed to replace it.
you get no contamination or glass chippings like you do with mdf or glass. and a lot easier on blades.
your local flooring dealer will have cheap offcuts for £15- £20.
Turn it upside down and glue it to your bench using contact adhesiveregards
Ian -
quote ste68blue:hi, probably a silly question but where do i get polypropolene from??
cheers
stephenI buy mine from Stockline Plastics, (3mm white) but most (industrial)plastics suppliers will carry it…but not many signmakers as it’s kinda non-stick!
And make sure it’s Polypropylene and not polyethylene, PTFE, polystyrene…some companies don’t seem to know the difference.
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quote ste68blue:just another quick question tho?? how do i secure the glass to the frame, cos i don’t suppose it would be easy to drill……..:-)
cheers
stepheni would suggest, assuming you make the bench frame from timber, using the double sided foam glazing tape, it’ll stick the glass down solid, and allow for any localised swells or pits in an imperfectly flat bit of timber. also make sure to protect the edges of toughened glass, thats where the weakness lays.
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