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what preparation do i need to do before sign writing on vans
Posted by andycatax on 14 February 2007 at 15:33Hi Everyone,
I have just really got into sign writing (1 year) normally just signs but one of my biggest customers has asked me to sign write their vans ( 7 in all ) which i have started and completed 2 vans. I would like to know if their is any tips to make it better easier etc
1. Prep surface around 3 times
2. measure for placement
3. apply rapid tak to area
4. apply vinyl/s and smooth out
5. leave for a while and remove application tapei have spoken to one of my mates who does sign writing and he said about re spraying the application tape and then peeling but i find it lifts at the edges. I take it that’s because there is too much rapid tak getting under the vinyl?
But the other day i see a van being done and he was using a heat gun i take it this evaporates the solvents and makes the vinyl adhesive stick better?
As i do get issues with parts of the vinyl lifting when i take off the app tape would this be a good investment? if so where do i get one?Also i have been asked about applying some vinyl to aluminum tail gates but i am unsure what vinyl to use?
Thanks
Andy[/list]
Neill Hague replied 18 years, 9 months ago 10 Members · 12 Replies -
12 Replies
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if you are unsure, spray a fine mist on the vinyl, once you have squeeged on the graphic you can wet the surface of the appication tape with water and leave for a minute, makes it easier to come off. If you can, try to mount the vinyl’s dry. Its the best and quickest way.
Hope it is of some help. -
Thanks Chris
I have to say i do my signs dry because it just sticks so well but i was advised to use a deadener to help with vinyl location.
But i will try it
Thanks again
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after u apply stickers – spray some water onto the application paper (actually we use plenty of it 🙂 – squeege it once more (really hard) so the paper becomes kind of really wet – then in comes off much easier
u can get heat gun at almost any DIY store – look for one with working temperature and air-flow speed adjustment – its really handy
cheers
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I flood both the surface of the vehicle or substrate and the sticky side of the vinyl with Rapid Tac.
Then after I apply it and squeegee it, I spray the whole mess with Windex to make the transfer tape easier to remove.
But I do find myself applying dry more often than I used to.
Especially small stuff and windows.
Love….Jill -
I flood both the surface of the vehicle or substrate and the sticky side of the vinyl with Rapid Tac.
Then after I apply it and squeegee it, I spray the whole mess with Windex to make the transfer tape easier to remove.
But I do find myself applying dry more often than I used to.
Especially small stuff and windows.
Love….Jill -
If you can do it dry, then do it. I don’t understand applying wet for positioning purposes – using the hinge method will take care of position.
Spraying the tape after application is a handy way of making the paper easier to remove, though.
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I agree with Andy, I always do vans dry, its much quicker and easier. Simply clean your surface and dry it, stick your graphics into place using masking tape, measure to make sure its level and in the right position, then put a piece of tape right down the middle of the graphic ( vertically usually) and lift one side of the graphics and peel back the backing paper, cut it off and lay the graphics down while squeegeing the top. Take off the vertical tape and repeat the backing paper removal and application. Then you can peel off the application paper straight away with no need to wet anything. You can then apply heat to the graphics to make sure they are firmly stuck. Works for me and I only do wet if Im layering up different colours or a complicated graphic. 😀
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As has already been said above, if you are capable of applying graphics dry then do it dry, you have already measured it to ensure its in the right place so you shouldn’t need to move it again. Use either the centre hinge method as Jayne does or the top hinge method and you shouldn’t have problems, much quicker, no need to worry that the corners are going to lift when you remove the tape, cheaper as you don’t need to use rapid tack anymore. As for the heat gun you should always heat the graphics after you have applied them, especially if you are working out side at this time of year it has nothing to do with drying out or aiding evaporation it is to ensure the adhesive used on the vinyl is activated properly. Next time you order some vinyl ask you supplier for a set of application instructions it will explain everything you need to know.
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I did a window on the back of a Mercedes a couple of weeks ago outside.
http://www.uksignboards.com/viewtopic.php?t=25440
It was freezing and I had a hell of a job getting it to stick.
It didn’t help that the customer was standing over my shoulder watching the whole time as I nervously lifted then re stuck down each corner of the graphics looking for the path of least resistance.
When all the tape was off I baked the whole job, took the money and waved him off thinking that there was no way it would stay down.
I have spoke to him since though and its survived the car wash and the back wipers so I must have did something right.
Mind you, the next time when I am at the masking tape stage and I have the letters of graphic in the right position, I’m gonna heat the substrate a bit before the release paper comes off and I squeegee it down. I might try the wetting of the app tape as well.
Jimmy.
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James you should have got him to run the car with the heater on for a while or even got him to put the rear window heater on for a while to warm the window up a bit before you applied the graphics, anything you can do to warm the substrate you are applying to in the cold is going to help.
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Andy when applying wet and your edges are lifting up its caused by two things. You haven’t let it dry enough and you haven’t used enough pressure. After you’ve let it dry remember to re squeege it again and again.
If your applying wet and going over groves and bumps on a vehicle you won’t be able to get the vinyl down when its wet. Keep working on everything else then come back later and remove the app tape. Be very careful not to tear the vinyl when your taking off the portion that isn’t fully down. Then heat up the vinyl with a heat gun and squeegee the vinyl into place. I usually wait ten minutes and give it a blast of heat again after its fully down.
I will use vinyl lube when I’m creating multi coloured layered graphics. I find it quicker and easier to align it by eye then trying to measure it on the vehicle then hinging it down. Espcially when you have recesses and grooves and its hard to find a flat spot to align everything to.
The tip of using vinyl lube to break up the adhesive on the app tape is create. Comes off like butter.
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I fit vinyl dry the same way as described by Jayne, works best for me if doing large bits.
My old boss always used to say to us – "Measure twice, fit once" – a good saying I think!
Good luck with the vans
Neill
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