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does anyone have any good/bad inputs with mimaki JV5-160S?
Hi Guys, judging from the lack of posts regarding this machine it seems they’re not very common (I realize they’ve not been out long) so I thought I post my impressions of it so far (compared to a Roland SP540V as that’s the entirety of my experience with large format)
first point is – oh my god its fast. I mean really really fast, even on 24 pass it still runs a hell of a lot quicker than the Roland. Run it on 6 pass and you’d better be on the ball setting up the take-up unit otherwise you’re knackered and will be buried in media very quickly.
second point – are mimaki machines generally prone to having trouble with media wrinkling or is our media sub standard? running some poster paper I had to feed the material back if the machine was going to be stood still for a couple of minutes otherwise the media would wrinkle enough for the head to skim the ink off.
I have to say its far easier to use than the roland, I haven’t had to change the media feed compensation on it yet and I’ve run canvas, pvc banner, poster paper and a couple of different vinyls.
We have Wasatch doing the ripping and this is very good (reliable) compared to Versaworks (nasty crash hungry thing that it is)
Adjusting colour when the need arises is very straightforward with wasatch too and more precise than versaworks for my money.
We have/are suffering a couple of teething troubles at the moment but I would imagine thats to be expected from a new machine.
hmm, I’ll post more stuff as I think of it 🙂
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10 Replies
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Darren
i have a Soljet 2 & on poster paper it does the same especially if the heater is on, which i occasionally use if i’m laying down a heavy load of ink. Its just the moisture in the paper reacting to the heat.Kev
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Darren,
I reckon it’s the paper.
I’ve only run paper through out JV3 once and had the same thing as you until we played around with the settings a bit. Even then I had trouble with the black not drying fast enough.
Never had bother with a decent make of vinyl
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i have a jv3 160sp and when we run paper we have to turn off the heater due to paper buckling. On the jv5 however turning off the heater with the speed it runs at may not be such a good idea. A mate of mine has one of these machines and boy are they fast at printing. They are a serious piece of equipment.
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Our unit can get very cold at night, could this be why the paper buckles so badly? Do any of you keep your media in a temp controlled environment or anything like that?
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We have a problem with paper cockling too. My way around it is to
advance the media by about half a metre after I’ve ripped the file, just
before the machine is put into remote. This ensures that there is the minimum of time that the media is on the heater. Once it’s running, it
seems to be fine.Cheers,
Jamie. -
this paper cockling is really getting on my nerves now. I’m running a job thats an entire 50m roll. I’ve turned the pre and print heaters right off, and started with the post dryer at 70 degrees (hot I know but I wanted to be sure it was dry) Even though the print heater was off it was running around 28 degrees which I put down to heat transfer from the post dryer. I then dropped it down to 60 which initially seemed better but now its started cockling gain giving a randomly blurred print. I’m running at 12 pass (20m an hour) I have tried running 6 pass (40m an hour) in the hope the paper spending less time over the heaters would help, but the print came out ever so slightly stripey and the job is mainly flat colours so I need to avoid that.
any ideas welcome!
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If you have the heater on too high, this will also cause cockling. The
profile which I use has the heaters set at 40 pre & 40 post, but this is
for a JV3. Not sure if this would dry it quick enough on a JV5, but my
first action would be to lower the heat to about 40, and turn your pre
and print heaters back on , but fairly low – 35-40 maybe, and see how it goes. Not much help, I know, but worth a try.Cheers,
Jamie. -
HI Guys,
2 things , firstly yes you should ideally keep the paper sealed and covered to prevent moisture getting into the sheet , if it does the fibres expand and the sheet will cockle , moisture rather than temperature is the issue.
secondly are you using a poster specifically made for inkjet printing? its made with a very low moisture content so when it is heated to dry their is only a limited amount of moisture taken out of the sheet which reduces distortion , Acconda for blueback poster and Citylights for normal posters are recommended and are not expensive , comes 1600mm and 1372mm wide.Regards
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we built a small room, put a door on it and laminated the floor… JV3 sits in the middle and our server sits near the entrance, heat from the server keeps the room warm, although we don’t print paper, vinyl do not buckle at all.
Simple rule is temperature change from cold to printer temperature is a lot less if materials are kept in the same room as printer.
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We have shelving in the printer room, where we store our media.
We put new rolls of media in the room for 24 hours to condition it.
The room is also heated, which helps.
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