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how do i stop wrap vinyl lifting?
Hi
Now i know this is a strange thing to post but i was looking for something good to practice applying vinyl on and thought the radiator would be good with those dips and curves.
The radiator was cold.I applied it flat and then heated the vinyl into the recesses
Later there is a couple of little bits lifting
I was reading on here something about reheating the vinyl to stop it lifting out.
Anyone offer any more help to stop it lifting
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19 Replies
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:lol1: well done ………….. what a good idea for practising on!!!!!!!!
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first make sure its clean no really clean and use a good cast vinyl
as you all know i know mactac 9800 is not a cast i would use this on here and would not worry about it pulling out but cast is the correct way to do things
heat lightly first to get the center of the vinyl to touch the dips and work more each time then when completely in to the dip heat slowly and until its very hot
rich -
I used Oracal 751
I didn’t get it that hot just gentle warming
Lee
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looks good lee…….great idea to practise on 😀
nik
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I have practiced on the car but this was a lot better with deeper recesses
Very enjoyable just wanted to keep doing more.A purchased a Dewalt heat gun after advice from the board very good tool and light weight.
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as has been said, good idea using that as your practice surface mate.
to be honest, any decent vinyl will act similar to a wrap material, but wont have the exact same characteristics/performance and will pull back after time.
yes, you gently heat and recess’s the vinyl into the recess’s but i once in place give it a decent heat and leave to cool. once cool.. i take the "area" of the vehicle up to around 130 degrees using the heat gun and laser. surface temperature gauge. you can buy these on the net pretty easy, cheap ones are about £35 up to about £150 make sure the max temp the gauge goes up to is not under 200 degrees. -
What an excellent idea Lee! :thumbsup:
Paul -
Would this be the advanced course, you know where you get a certificate and everything.
Seriously though, good idea for practising.
Phil
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Lee, good Idea, I have always said the best way to learn is to practice wrapping items around the house or workshop. Must admit I hadn’t thought about doing the radiators though!!
As Robert has said though it is a 2 stage process. Firstly fit the vinyl using a gentle heat and then when complete go back and give it all a good blast.I can’t fit vinyl with a heat gun to save my life because I always seem to overheat it so I use a hairdryer to fit all my vinyl. Problem is that a hairdryer doesn’t produce enough heat to ensure that it stays fitted, especially in deep recesses so after it is all fitted out comes the heat gun and all the areas that are recessed are given a proper heat with the heat gun to ensure the vinyl stays where it is suppose to.
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I guess you wouldnt even have to give it a good blast with a hotair gun, just turn on the rads. It might be a good way to disguise rads with digi print!
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I dunno Lee – If it was me I would have probably painted the radiator 😮
wot?? 😕
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I had to have a go. (JUST TO MIX THINGS!)
heat guns are far to hot for this.
Someone told me they use naked flames as well which I would think would be less brutal.
I had to have a rest, hard work!
Jimmy.
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mmmmmm
I’m having trouble getting the vinyl to stick to the exposed metal areas of my experiment.
C post above.
Can anyone recommend a treatment to help the vinyl stick?
Jimmy.
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trip to Halfrauds – some clear laquer & spray the affected area. Let it dry / wave heat gun over it, stick the vinyl down.
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Just an FYI…
All plastic has a memory, which means it wants to go back to it’s original shape when it’s stretched or distorted.
I was at a wrap class last week where 3M recommended raising the temperature of their Controltac vinyl to 200° Fahrenheit once its applied. This is to release its "memory" and permanently conform to the surface in which it is applied.
They also suggested using the laser thermometer to insure you’ve reached the proper temperature.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
I’ll give that a go David – cheers!
Will post results.
Brain – Rob Lambie Posted something about those thermometers; I think he quoted 130 degrees after application but that may have been for adherance rather than memory loss. Cant quite remember!
Jimmy.
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Hiya Jimmy,
I caught that too. Apparently, they’re a "must have" tool for vinyl wraps.
Not to say Rob was wrong, but the 200° (F) was still fresh in my mind from the 3M wrap class.
Also, would assume that different brands of materials require different temperatures. So, I would suggest that check with the manufacturer of the media you’re using.Checkers
a.k.a. Brian Born
Harrisburg, PA USA -
tks Dave your lacquer advice worked a treat.
This was the first time I used cast (oracle 751). its a nicer finish than 651; as if its thicker and more gummy.
The colour is hull-white which looked better than the pure white (not as cheep) and the guy at euro point said i was the first person he has ever sold any hull-white to.
Good experience had to redo parts of it about 4 times but it takes at least ten years off the age of the old thing 😀 .
Also gave it a good baking with the heat gun Brian: Don’t have a thermo yet.
Jimmy
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I would also apply 3M Primer 94 in the recessed areas to keep it from lifting.
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