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how can i minimise shadows on acrylic joints?
We do a lot of fascias normally with graphics and digitally printed panels. Our fitters put a sign up recently which was vinyl text onto an illuminated opal sign – we use 3mm clear acrylic male & female joining strips – is there any other way to minimise shadow on the joints? I’ve used clear tape in the past but this either discolours or the adhesive dries and the tape falls off! Help…
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7 Replies
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i don’t actually use perspex in big light boxes that much these days mate… if i cant find an alternative ill use flex-face.
anyway… in the past, i normally used a tongue and groove type join. this consisted of half the thickness of each sheet router away to leave a sort of step. the same but mirror of it on the other sheet. then at the back there would be a 3mm clear perspex strip glued to the rear of one sheet, creating a groove, this was about .5 inch wide to .75 depending on the depth of the panel. itlocked together nicely but still did give you that .5 inch shadow. in most cases i tried to make a letter or logo cover the join also as it helped hide the shadow effect.
there is the clear strip on the rear like you said glued using something like clear tensol.
then there is clear "panel locks" these sort of slide over each other falling into a hook type shape causing it to lock. hard to explain really… heres a place you might get them as they appear to do similar.
http://www.signmakersproducts.ltd.uk/
in the past i "think" we bought our panel locks from amari plastics.there are a couple of other methods too… ill have a think and repost if they come to mind. 😕
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I use the tongue and groove method too. about the best solution I have found
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Are you just looking for a way to stick on the joining strips? Use proper (tensol) acrylic adhesive. It’s basically liquid acrylic that’s either straight glue or a 2 part resin. No suitable for on-the-job fixing – more of a workshop pre-assembly unless you are incredibly patient….
If i was to disguise the joins – i prefer the rebate method Robert & Shane use, and there not much you can do to keep the joints clean.
Dave
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Thanks guys – I have used the rebated style before and also the clips that Rob mentioned – perhaps I’ll have to go back to the rebate – its just that the volume we do, getting our supplier to rebate every joining edge will cost a fortune!
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quote Andrew John Sawyer:Thanks guys – I have used the rebated style before and also the clips that Rob mentioned – perhaps I’ll have to go back to the rebate – its just that the volume we do, getting our supplier to rebate every joining edge will cost a fortune!
if you get that many done, would it pay to get a jig made up and do it yourself with a router?
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Shane – that would be the next logical step…I’ve been looking at that option. Thanks.
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If you’ve never done it yourself, routing the edges is literally a five minute job. No special jigs or bits are needed, just a straight bit and a stop attachment on the router.
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