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requirements needed please for lightbox sign?
Hi guys,
I have a customer who has contacted me with specific requirements.
He is completely redesigning his shop front, and wants a light box,
as in picture (2), so the lightbox is inside the shop:
not like picture (1), which is how he’s got it at the moment.
He has mentioned the following requirements :
1) Wants the perspex in one piece to avoid the join – i have told him that wont be possible. But he wants me to find out the maximum width it could be in one piece anyway…
2) The face of the perspex must be the same level as the face of the glass. Does this make sense? Is there anyway to just get the whole front done with glass, and use this as though this is perspex by applying a semi opaque vinyl or something and putting the box ( minus a perspex front of course, buff against the glass on the inside- ??
2) Has obviously heard about white LED lighting as kept going on about thats how he wanted it lit – for easy maintenace from the inside.
3) Wants to be able to get to it from the inside – again for easy maintenance he says
Any advise on this matter would be most appreciated
Thanks
Danny
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5 Replies
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What size is this light box Danny. I may be able to help you as we used to manufacture them.
Regards
Richard
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A few suggestions:
quote Kate and Danny:Hi guys,
1) Wants the perspex in one piece to avoid the join – i have told him that wont be possible. But he wants me to find out the maximum width it could be in one piece anyway…Easily get 3050mm sheets, have heard tales of larger. 🙂 But a good rebated join with clips/tape will remain tight & closed.
quote :2) The face of the perspex must be the same level as the face of the glass. Does this make sense? Is there anyway to just get the whole front done with glass, and use this as though this is perspex by applying a semi opaque vinyl or something and putting the box ( minus a perspex front of course, buff against the glass on the inside- ??Yes, use translucent vinyls, but would recommend a prism diffuser to scatter the light and avoid ‘hot spots’ / use a pale etched film at a push.
quote :2) Has obviously heard about white LED lighting as kept going on about thats how he wanted it lit – for easy maintenace from the inside.Why? The amount of LEDS to illuminate that would be immense, light output would probably be lower than good fluorecents, which are practically maintenance free – what new tubes every couple of years!
quote :3) Wants to be able to get to it from the inside – again for easy maintenance he says– If using LEDS, why the concern – they’re maintenance free 🙄 If fluorecents – just get a ‘dual-case’ so you can remove the back panel (with lighting on it) like you would a face panel by taking off the trim/beading.
quote :Any advise on this matter would be most appreciatedThanks
Danny
Hope I’ve helped a wee bit.
Dave
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Thanks Dave, thats more than helpful !
Just one more question, or confirmation really:
1) The lightbox would still need to be suspended from the ceiling right ? ( i cant think of any other way personally )
2) He will have a suspended ceiling with those crumbly tiles. WHats the best way to get around this.
Danny
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quote Kate and Danny:Thanks Dave, thats more than helpful !
Just one more question, or confirmation really:
1) The lightbox would still need to be suspended from the ceiling right ? ( i cant think of any other way personally )
fix to the window frame, and if necessary a couple of support wires to the proper roof. using GOOD D/S tape around the perimeter will give additional support & stop light leakage.
quote :2) He will have a suspended ceiling with those crumbly tiles. WHats the best way to get around this.Is the box above or below the false ceiling? You might need to get some steel cable & fixings (from B&Q) just to take the weight through the tiles to the real roof.
On thing to remember about internal lightboxes – the interiors can get seriously overheated (have seen enough melted wires), might be wise to vent top & bottom to allow a little airflow if there is no natural cooling.
Dave
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quote Kate and Danny:2) He will have a suspended ceiling with those crumbly tiles. WHats the best way to get around this.Danny
Danny
You have got to go through the tiles and fix to the proper ceiling,I would suggest just making small holes in the tiles where the chains come through, shouldn’t be too much grief just depends how high the ceiling is above the tiles.
oops!I posted this and then saw Dave’s reply.
I’m glad this is your customer and not mine 🙂
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