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can anyone tell me why mimaki JV3 printing with banding?
Posted by Stuart John Halliday on 10 April 2006 at 18:59Proofed graphics for approval.
Apx 450 x 550mm Emblems
Printed at various settings to see which gave best quality / speed.
Best compromise was 4 Pass – Uni-Directional
Now trying to run approved emblems. Start of run the quality is okay. As the run progresses the banding in print increases to an unacceptable quality (apx 2m). The banding is more pronounced to one side.
I then print a test draw and all heads are printing.
Currently using MPI 1005 (Cast Film) from 60" x 50yrd Roll.
Will look tomorrow at trying a less heavier roll and narrower width.
Welcome to any suggestions before I resort to process of elimination.
Alternatively any equivalent material if this may help.
Annoying in the fact that I tested the material before committing to larger print run.
Heng replied 17 years, 11 months ago 7 Members · 11 Replies -
11 Replies
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Dave Rowland is one of our JV3 gurus here.
It will not be the Avery 1005 though. It is good gear.
I may have trouble pulling it off the roll if it is tightly wound. Try rolling it off the roll before you print and see if that makes a difference.
Just a thought. I have that with my roland if I print from a full roll of banner material. If I forget to roll it forward on the roll holder, and let it pull on the heavy roll, I’ll get banding every time.
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Could also be a heat issue. We always let vinyl warm up in machine for at least an hour before printing with room heaters on. will print all day, no probs. Anything else and banding is guaranteed
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Sorry if you’ve already tried this but have you tried adjusting the feed rate?
If the banding only appears after 2m of printing then the feed rate could be out by a fraction, it can be adjusted while the printer is running and is adjustable in increments of a .1mm.
It just means babysitting the print, but once set up its worth it.
I had the same problem with the banding being more pronounced at the station edge (thinking the head would have to be recalibrated or something), however this did seem to fix it.Hope this helps.
Splatt
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yep.. hello.. i have the jv3-160s
if its 2mtrs then likely that u have just wound that onto the take up, as soon as you tape onto the take up the feed rate changes slightly and u need to make to make a fine tune as described below… the tension on the take up might be too much, try reducing it on the adjuster on the take up unit…
The weight on the back of the roll can effect it but 1005 isn’t that bad as we print great with it.
To override banding issues, remember there is two controls, one is the setup of the feed before printing… think its called Media Compensation function and this is where u got to match up the grey lines and get it perfect. If you havent’ used it yet, there is an adjuster while you are printing, you press Function and a menu appears when printing, then press Enter and it should allow you to fine tune the feed rate… move up or down in 10’s and it should sort it.. once you are happy press enter to store.
If you are getting DARK line in your banding in the print head direction, this means that the feed rate is too low and you are placing ink ontop of ink.
If you are getting WHITE lines in your banding then your feed rate is too high.
If you are getting lines in the other direction then this is dirty rollers.The other banding issue is the deflection in the nozzle… hopefully you havent got this, your nozzle print should show a perfect nozzle print out… if not then use the clean machine routines.
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Thank you for advice.
On my initial run the banding disappeared after about 2m as suggested by Dave.
On additional rolls I did not see any banding issues. May have just been a bad alignment. Weird as I had reset roll more than once.
Another issue has been that when printing on long runs I would only recommend about 20m run. Anything over that and the take up roll tension needs to be increased to take up slack.
To much tension may also be causing the print to matt off on roll.
Added a scan delay to print. On doing so this increases the print time, so much so that I could increase my print quality to 8 pass uni-directional instead of the 4 pass currently running, dropping the scan delay.
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forget scan delay… if worried about drying and u dont have a fan… put some desk fans in front of JV3… sorts out sticking/drying.
yes 20mtrs does get heavy and u end up wacking up tension… just expect white banding and tune to the best… not a lot u can do about it on the 160 as your media is heavy.
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I can use desk fan as we use on HP5500. Obviously have to forget the rollerblind attachment to front of machine.
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Hi sorry to drag up an old post, just thought i would add my 2p’s worth.
Its worth noting that some Rips will attempt to over-ride the Media Comp set on the machine, you must make sure that if you adjust on the Printer (as opposed to the Rip) that you must set the printer up accordingly, under "Priority" in the set up menu you will find "media Comp" it will more than likely be set to HOST, you should set it to PLOT to make any changes.
Mark
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quote Dave Rowland:yep.. hello.. i have the jv3-160s
if its 2mtrs then likely that u have just wound that onto the take up, as soon as you tape onto the take up the feed rate changes slightly and u need to make to make a fine tune as described below… the tension on the take up might be too much, try reducing it on the adjuster on the take up unit…
The weight on the back of the roll can effect it but 1005 isn’t that bad as we print great with it.
To override banding issues, remember there is two controls, one is the setup of the feed before printing… think its called Media Compensation function and this is where u got to match up the grey lines and get it perfect. If you havent’ used it yet, there is an adjuster while you are printing, you press Function and a menu appears when printing, then press Enter and it should allow you to fine tune the feed rate… move up or down in 10’s and it should sort it.. once you are happy press enter to store.
If you are getting DARK line in your banding in the print head direction, this means that the feed rate is too low and you are placing ink ontop of ink.
If you are getting WHITE lines in your banding then your feed rate is too high.
If you are getting lines in the other direction then this is dirty rollers.The other banding issue is the deflection in the nozzle… hopefully you havent got this, your nozzle print should show a perfect nozzle print out… if not then use the clean machine routines.
Hi Dave,
Been going through the thread regarding this problem of banding and stripy printing as we are having the same probem. We set the media compensation to 20 but still getting some stripes especially on the dark colours like black and red. And the ink seem to be very thick. What do you set your media compensation on?
Somehow setting it to print on bi-directional and fast printing on 8 pass seem to be better. When we had it on unidirectional, the ink is thick on the darker colours.thanks in advance
Heng -
to be honest, the jv3 is pick file and print for us.. regardless of media comp setting. Shiraz does have different feedrates so that helps take some guess work out of it.
When u media comp, just get it as near as possible to two gray boxes, no need to overboard.
The take up is about 1mtr away so as soon as you tape on take up the media comp/banding will increase (white line).. the more weight transferred the liner it gets.
We dont run into the problems like this
our jv3-160s runs at 720×720 uni 8 pass and banner is 540×720 uni 4 pass i think. i don’t run any bidirectional as can band
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Hi Dave,
Thanks for your advice.
Will try to adjust the media comp setting.
The technician will be here at the end of the week so I
can leave it to him if I can’t fix it.Regards
Heng
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