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tips and advice please with using ultra gold leaf?
Has anyone used the above.
How well did you get on with it, any tips and advice please, was’nt sure if this had been covered before.
Regards Russ
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9 Replies
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are we talking the stuff from “sign gold” mate? or the leaf effect vinyl you can now by from some some of the larger suppliers?
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Rubbish, Use the real stuff. It really is not too difficult. People who say it is hard heard a myth!!
Nobby
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Nobby,
its easy when you know how,
Like riding a bike I suppose.
But any chance of a demo? or has one already been done on here?Peter
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Hi Peter,
Guess so mate. I would guess a demo has been done but if not willing to do one.
Nobby 😕
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Hi Nobby,
I’d love to see your demo once you have done one. -
Hi Rob,
In answer to your question I’m not sure where It’s from i’ve been told you can apply this stuff to raised letters for example, by heating it with a heat gun. Samples are on there way to me.
Hi Nobby,
I would have no problem in using the real stuff if I new how, the other factor was cost to the customer, or more like what he is willing to pay for his individual job. It would also be nice to be aware of the finished look and durability of the ultra gold leaf as a product.
A demo would be great.
Regards Russ
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If you are referring to SignGold, it can be tricky to use.
Your blade must be new, and you need to constantly watch the pressure/weight.
It’s easy to weed, but be careful when masking it so you don’t crinkle it.
But the look of it is passable,and people are willing to pay extra for it.
I always make sure to lay the SignGold on a black layer for an outline to make it pop.It’s true that there is absolutely nothing as nice-looking as real gold leaf.
Even those who are not sure of their hand-lettering skills can gild using a computer-cut mask.
Just be sure to cust a thin secondary outline or contour around your lettering.
Apply the size, then remove the outline part.
This way it won’t have a hard edge when the size sets up.I usually use fast size, but the slow LeFranc size gives the best luster.
(Size is the glue to make the gold leaves stick to your surface)
Fast size can be ready to gild in an hour some days.
Slow size can take up to 12 hours to be ready….size the night before,
gild in the morning.
Some folks brag of sizing something with LeFranc, throwing it in a drawer,
and still being able to gild it a month later….not me!The real trick (for me) is to be patient and not to gild too soon.
Make a small test piece on a soup-can lid laid flat.
When that size passes the knuckle-drag test, you are ready to apply the gold.
This way you’re not messing up the size on your project either.After gilding, you can burnish (lightly scratch/buff) the gold in different ways.
Some folks burnish using an acetate mask for a 3D or parquet look.
Many people take a small velvet thingie and turn it, making engine-turned gold.
I always dig too deep and make f*cked-up gold.
Usually I just brush off my excess with a very soft brush.
Then I outline with 1-Shot, maybe difficult for a Newbie.
Gold usually does not need a clear coat unless it is in a high-handling area.I’ve only been gilding 9 years now and I still mess it up every time.
But I’ve seen others with basicly no lettering skills lay gold like an old pro.
A demo would be great, Nobby.
Love….Jill -
PS
If this would be for raised letters I would DEFINATELY use real gold.
Why piss around with vinyl on that?
Much easier to size and gild.
More durable, too I think.
A pack of about 20 sheets is $35 here and it goes a long way.
You should give it a try.
Love….Jill -
Jill thanks a million, what a fantastic reply now itching to have ago.
Health & Success to you for 2006
Regards Russ
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