-
Vehicle wrapping and laminating
Can someone advise me about the following:-
I have always understood that vehicle wrapping vinyls are specially formulated to go into curves, stretch and generally do a good job of wrapping a vehicle. However, the general advice is when printing for vehicles you should always protect the print with a clear laminate. Surely the clear laminate needs to have the same properties as the specialised vehicle wrapping vinyls otherwise it will just pucker, shrink and behave in much the same way as an ordinary vinyl. Otherwise why not just print and wrap using an ordinary vinyl?
I had always thought that to do a vehicle wrap you needed to use a specialist vinyl – yet I’m not aware of any specialist laminating vinyls for protecting the prints on vehicle wrapping vinyls – or am I mistaken? Can someone enlighten me – or am I just being thick 😕
-
12 Replies
-
Good question.
-
I agree: A good question!
-
I am not an expert but here goes. It was explained to me that your laminate should be the same grade as the vinyl you use. So if you are using a 3 year intermediate vinyl to print on when you would use a similar grade laminate. We use Avery EZ fleet for vehicle wraping and a high grade laminate that is similar in square foot cost. The laminate is not as thick as vinyl and very stretchy. We laminate it using some heat and pressure and it becomes one with the graphic. The laminate is going to do what the vinyl does. If the vinyl was to crack the printed image would crack and the overlaminate would look cracked since it is clear.
The EZ fleet is formulated to stick to say a car but also to be removed later without leaving a mess. I dont think it would be possible to remove the laminate from the print it was put on correctly.If we printed a bus wrap we would use different vinyl and different laminate or possible no laminate depending on how long the ad will run
and if the laminate is needed to help the install process.Hope this makes some sence.
Brian
-
Now I understand!
Cheers
-
Hi
Can I laminate an image made on Macfleet6500, with Macfleet6500 transparent vinyl?
Or I must use special laminate? Which type of laminate?
(?) (?) (?) -
You have to use the same laminate specs as your vinyl.
There is no point using a cast vinyl with a normal laminate on-top and visa -versa.I do a lot of wraps and mostly use grey glue cast vinyl with a gloss cast laminate on top.
Graphtyp sell them both as a combination. I think they call it graphytWrap
or something. Cast Laminate is pricy tho. Ive had no problems with this combination, you can really stretch and shrink it.Iam gonna try using oracal 851 or even 751with the cast laminate on top, should be a cheaper that way.
Dont scrimp on materials though…..you dont want to take the graphics off
6 months down the road when the vinyl fails. -
Ok, it’s clear. But the Macfleet6500 is a cast vinyl (e.g. for vehicle wrapping), and I don’t know whether can I laminate it with a transparent Macfleet6500 cast vinyl, or the laminate is a special material?
-
You should overlaminate with a conformable overlaminate – which would be a cold pressure type – heated laminates on vinyl are a no no – for various reasons (the heat messes the glues and it can affect the print , the vinyl and the heat leads to expansion and on cooling the vinyl is no longer flat – plasticisers get released etc and can cause delamination) Most lamination film mnfgrs make it in one form or another.
We actually dont do that at all , we use a product called Micronex , made by GMP ,
Its a “hot” product , but the temps required are nowhere NEAR hot laminations , and it is not actually a “film” per se – its a sort of “glue” that is chemical and abraison resistant as well as conformable and best of all , it does not change the look of the print
It needs no webbing on the laminator and one cant get bubbles , ripples , boat wakes , curls etc that you can get from film lamination.Its also VERY cheap compared to conformable films and is a sort of bridging product between wet and dry lams , it withstands a LOT of scuffing etc and doesnt have the same problems that damaged film laminated products have (rucking , local delamination , dulling of the surface thru abraision etc)
-
Does this stuff come in sheet form then?? and is it applied in the same way as film is??
I’ve often thought a spray would be a good idea but i guess something like frog juice is very costly and getting an even layer all over would be pretty difficult too
-
I comes in 100m rolls and you need a laminator capable of hot laminating (with a temp control as it needs a lot less heat than actual hot laminating film) , Its a product meant for the finishing industry.
Liquid lams are worse than useless mostly – you can get better protection spraying Mr Min or Pledge furniture polish on a print – Here the guys use stuff called “Spray ‘n Cook” – You can also try a silicon based car interior liquid. -
Aha! 😀
Thanks! -
Hhmm a good subject and one I have strong opinions on.
But please remember, this is only my opinion!My opinion is that for exterior work with a decent life, Solvent or thermal prints need some kind of protection. Frog juice, vinyl lamination etc certainly more so for vehicle applications.
If I am asked for a long-term solution for vehicle wrapping digital prints I would strongly recommend an over laminate.
If asked would I guarantee it for years to come my answer would simply be no! Well, I should say.. “No if there are many recessed areas on the vehicle. Or odd shaped wings, bumpers”
I post this reply as a professional vinyl applicator & have been 14 years now, but not as a specialised in printing or lamination. (So take on board what you wish from this post)
Laminated prints can & do work well in most cases, as long as proper laminates are used. Compatibility is a big mistake many make. So its good the question has been asked by Phil.
Like I have said I have been applying for years now & have repaired and given opinions to various folk on work they have had fitted elsewhere…
With regards to vehicle wraps or printed graphics crossing deep/severe recesses.
I can honestly say 95% have pulled, popped, faded.. You name it.
Vehicle wrapping!. Is this still the work every tom dik and Harry thinks because he can stretch a bit of vinyl successfully that he can now vehicle wrap? Vehicles I see and ive no doubt many of you have seen, should confirm that there are many cowboy vehicle wrappers. These same cowboys maybe successful sign makers, but remember making a sign is not wrapping a lwb sprinter head to toe.
Even when completed, the true test on your application is a month or so later when you re-inspect the van.Back to the lamination of printed vinyl’s…
Like I said I don’t have 100% confidence in laminated vinyl’s crossing deep recesses.
Have a look at this image below.
Diagram “A” shows you a printed vehicle wrap vinyl application crossing a deep recessed area. An area often found on older shaped transits. New merc sprinters & many more vehicles on the road.
When we apply vinyl to an area like this it is very important that we clean, de-grease as much as possible. After washing it down it’s advised to wipe these areas properly with mentholated spirits to eliminate any dirt contamination that could hamper adhesion of the wrap vinyl.
Once clean you apply the vinyl in the normal wrap method, stretching heating etc etc.
All in place nice and tight. The (yellow) wrap vinyl now has a tight grip on the spotless vehicle surface.Diagram “b”
Now take a look again and consider this properly.
The yellow vinyl adheres to the “highly recommended by suppliers” spotless surface of the vehicle. If pulling back is to be avoided. Fine!
On top of the vinyl we have a thin coat of ink…this ink is not penetrating the surface. Merely sitting on it.
Next on top we have the lamination vinyl. Same properties as the wrap vinyl. But! Is it adhering to the same surface? It is stretched & heated in the same way, yes!
But remember what you have been told many times when applying any vinyl’s.. Spotless, grease free surface. I think you will find all this ink on the surface of the yellow acts just like grime in some form or another.
When the pulling starts, the yellow vinyl is staying put. But the lamination has a tougher job. Its basically holding onto the inky printed surface of the first vinyl.
This being the case, even if a compatible vinyl, the laminate has a lot less chance of holding on than its partner!!!Diagram “C”
All it takes is for the corners to pull back a little. The next time the vehicle gets a steam clean the water runs up these pulled areas. The vinyl starts to go brittle and then breaks away leaving a glue, dirt, faded print messing the recesses!You may disagree with what I have just said, but ide advise you to at least think about it. Many suppliers are selling wraps & wrap alternatives.. None are asking are you qualified to apply this? Do you know what can happen? Nop… give us your money and there you go! 2 days later.. My vinyl’s is pulling back (supplier) “ahhh sir! Can I ask?. Are you experienced in wrapping?” It’s down to you at the end of the day!!
Having said all the above… I do think the way forward at the moment for a small company is solvent printers. Our company will be buying the grenadier as I have mentioned before. Will I use it for wraps?? Well once I play around with it for a month or so ill make my decision.. But over areas like above with a guarantee.
Definitely, No!
Log in to reply.