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  • What happens when you wrap over the van silicone / sealant?

    Posted by Pane Talev on January 11, 2021 at 6:43 pm

    Good evening all.

    What happens when you wrap over the van silicone / sealant?

    You cut and remove vinyl / expose sealant?

    Or do you leave wrap as it is over sealant?

    Martyn replied 4 years ago 8 Members · 18 Replies
  • 18 Replies
  • RobertLambie

    Administrator
    January 11, 2021 at 11:02 pm

    Hi Pane

    There are various ways to do this, none are perfectly correct because there are various things to take into consideration that can change from one vehicle to the next.

    The rule is to trim it away leaving the rubber exposed. The trouble with this is how far back do you trim, because trimming on the rubber leaving a little lip, actually creates more issues than wrapping over it.
    trimming it back and off the rubber, can expose both the gey/black rubber and white. making it stand out much more, but at least the vinyl has a better adhesion against the paintwork.

    for me, it greatly depends on the age of the van and the finish of the rubber. some are very clean and the vinyl bonds not too badly, others the adhesion is poor and requires trimming.
    hard to advise because, as I say, I use different ways from one to the next.

    perfect case scenario is one that will allow you to bridge the rubber but the rubber allows a decent adhesion. apply heat and rub down it firm to promote adhesion. at the very top and very bottom. just on the rubber, “if you have any” put a little dab of 3M adhesive promoter.
    all this does is prevents water running down the back of the bridge. also, if you are applying vinyl panels top to bottom of the van, take the vinyl up under the gutter which also helps prevent dirty water going down the back of the bridge. this seldom happens, I’m only telling you these points because if you do as many as you can, you shouldn’t have any problems at all.
    I have seen some people use primer right down the rubber. but this is messy sticky stuff at the best of time and the last thing you want is the wrap to be removed and the rubber is caked in the adhesive.

    some rubbers have a nice gloss coating which WILL take vinyl. but they sit a bit proud and its sometimes best to NOT bridge but apply up to it and over. once applied neat, using a new blade, slit down each side. that way if there is flex and movement or anything gets down the back, the strip of vinyl covering it can be peeled away easy at a later stage, if required withing affecting the original job.



  • Martyn

    Member
    January 12, 2021 at 4:31 pm

    Yep, exactly what robert said 😀

    For me if its normal vinyl or print on a van i always cut and remove, leaving the rubber on show.

    Wraps however i feel its best to cover, even if the adhesion isnt great or even creates a “bubble” non tack line. This is normally not noticed by anyone but a white rubber line on a blue wrap for example sticks out way too much. 3m primer is always an option.

  • Pane Talev

    Member
    January 12, 2021 at 8:01 pm

    Thank you gents. Will go down this route.:

    “but they sit a bit proud and its sometimes best to NOT bridge but apply up to it and over. once applied neat, using a new blade, slit down each side. that way if there is flex and movement or anything gets down the back, the strip of vinyl covering it can be peeled away easy at a later stage, if required withing affecting the original job.”

  • RobertLambie

    Administrator
    January 14, 2021 at 11:14 am

    Hi Pane

    I have just realised this van looks like a van we did a part wrap on early last year.
    If you look at the area I have indicated with red arrows below. This WILL cause you problems in a couple of ways. It has one of those raised joins right in the recess of the van. I forget exactly how we addressed this but from memory, we had to feed/fold into, cut and overlay a part. very hard to explain, but thought I would make you aware of it.
    I would advise printing an extra splice just down this area a few inches wide by the depth for overlaying purposes once you cut it. I say that so you have a colour matched spare bit to use.

  • Pane Talev

    Member
    January 18, 2021 at 7:00 am

    I know what you mean Robert. In my case image stays on face panel. This is not a full wrap. I did as you suggested. Wrapped the sealing and then made a cut.

  • Jeff

    Member
    January 18, 2021 at 9:30 pm

    man. that is a tough recess to do! 😧

  • Karen White

    Member
    January 20, 2021 at 2:10 pm

    Where do you even start with a recess like this?

    Surely that is not possible?

  • Kevin Mahoney

    Member
    January 20, 2021 at 8:13 pm

    I’ve done a few of those vans, hate them

    • Martyn

      Member
      January 21, 2021 at 6:12 am

      Very nice! out of interest, where are the drops on this/joins if any?

      • Kevin Mahoney

        Member
        January 21, 2021 at 6:34 am

        Hi Martyn.

        Rear section at the tail lights

        Horizontal join along waistline, door & front wings done as drops

  • Chris Wilson

    Member
    January 20, 2021 at 9:29 pm

    That’s a nice van Kev!! Wish it was in my portfolio

    • Kevin Mahoney

      Member
      January 20, 2021 at 9:44 pm

      I cringe whenever they call Chris, they buy this model every time & I loathe the vans. So much extra faffing about because the manufacturer can’t be bothered to make a proper long wheelbase, just glue an extension on. Just that extra bit on the back adds hours to the job

  • Karen White

    Member
    January 21, 2021 at 11:53 am

    Kevin those vans look excellent. you appear to do lots of interesting work!

    I am still a bit stuck in imagining how this is done. is the vinyl heat shrunk into the recess in one piece or cut and bits laid in?

  • Kevin Mahoney

    Member
    January 21, 2021 at 2:12 pm

    I start with the back end & wrap over the mastic bead, little to no heat. I then lay on the lower section onto the side, again leaving the material as relaxed as possible, & go over the bead again from the other side.I lay on the top piece & line up, remove the bottom section of liner & fit, hinge down & fit the top out as normal. Door then front wing, followed swiftly by the pub. Been a while since they’ve been in

    • Martyn

      Member
      January 21, 2021 at 3:42 pm

      nice explanation 👍. Would another option be to lay the whole side (down to the bodywork crease below the panel) in one piece, touching the high points (not within the panel) then start fitting from inside the panel, get it all heated in then work out onto the flats.?

      • Kevin Mahoney

        Member
        January 21, 2021 at 4:53 pm

        Everything about these vans is a minefield to be honest. The flexible sealant is designed To be just that, flexible & always moving & always gassing off, forever. Then there’s the deep recess on both sides just to make life fun. The vehicle designers wife clearly ran off with a sign writer as this van is one of our worst enemies.

        I prefer the overlap to be below any stretching required, going on at full strength for 50mm before you start heating & stretching. I don’t like stretching too much on these vans as there are failure points everywhere you look. The horizontal join is barely visible as opposed to drops going across a recessed panel. That would keep me awake at night

        • Shane Drew

          Member
          January 22, 2021 at 1:54 am

          “The vehicle designers wife clearly ran off with a sign writer as this van is one of our worst enemies.” That made my day

          Excellent work buddy. Well done.

        • Martyn

          Member
          January 22, 2021 at 8:50 am

          Spot on, its a tricky one for sure. A helova lot of work involved which the customer never appreciates. THey mostly look suprised when you tell them its 3 or 4 days work

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